2005 Bordeaux – The Peaks are Stellar!
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Ducru-Beaucaillou at dawn
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It's been two weeks since my return from Bordeaux;
two weeks for my head to cease spinning. The cause of
my cranial rotation? Well, the quality of the wine
was partly to blame, of course, but you've already
read a great deal about 2005 in the press, I am sure.
Adding rpm were the rumours about release prices,
concerns over availability and the shock of seeing
quite so many people tripping around Bordeaux,
generally driving quite well, but with their
blackened teeth giving them away.
I found a vintage unlike any I have previously
tasted. And now I am stuck, for the epithets have
already become clichéd, the praise slightly
hackneyed. So I beg you to humour me; either that or
stop reading and simply wait for the onslaught of a
Franco-British campaign that threatens to make
Waterloo look like a tea-party.
I'll keep this brief and to the point. Weather-wise,
we're talking miniscule levels of rainfall; a record
lack of moisture, in fact. At the same time, there
was little heat, however. The vintage remained mild
and occasionally overcast and the fruit, by the time
it was ready to be gathered, was about as good as it
gets: fully ripe, with very small berries giving high
skin to juice ratio. This means we're looking at a
great deal of tannin in the finished wines.
So, structure, ripeness, concentration, as well as
the usual balance and length, are what we're after
here. Plus, for the vintage to be truly great, we
require the wines to be true to type: for Pauillacs to taste like Pauillacs, St Emilions, St Emilions etc.
At its best, this vintage offers all this and more.
To my mind, 2005 doesn't offer the homogeneity of,
say, 2000. There are notable disappointments and the
"lesser" châteaux seemed to struggle
proportionately more than their seniors. But at its
heights (and, Himalayan-style, the peaks are many),
this is, indeed, as good as anything I've ever tasted
at this stage.
The best descriptor I can think of is that these
wines remind me of elegant monoliths; complex Gothic
architecture that will stand trial by time and very
possibly flood and earthquake too. These are big
wines - high alcohol, tannic, massively fruited -
that in no way lack complexity, subtlety and
elegance. They are as grand a selection of grands vins you are likely to
come across and, provided the prices are at least
partially sane, should be cellared with confidence
and the expectation of some exotically profound
drinking in the years to come.
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Château Latour from
the terrace at Pichon-Lalande
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Best Wines
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N.B. it is widely accepted that assessing any wines
at this stage of their development is a rather silly
exercise. However, the Bordelais want it to be this
way, so we have to fall into line.
Those of you who spend time trawling through the
various scores and tasting notes published by
assorted journalists and merchants will be aware that
there are sometimes discrepancies between scores for
the same wine and this is unsurprising for several
reasons, including sample variation, age of sample
etc. In these instances, I would have confidence in
the more positive assessment for the simple reason
that it is very easy for a barrel sample of a wine
this age to show less well than it might. Aside from
adding a substance in an attempt to make the sample
seem more flattering (a practice largely now
extinct), it is very hard to make a wine seem better
than it is destined to be. I would go on about
secondary fermentations in barrel and
micro-oxygenation but I fear their soporific effects
on the reader.
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The impeccable terroir at Domaine de Chevalier
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So, here are my heroes; the wines that really stood
out for me.
(When a wine is released by the Bordelais, the full details of
the wine, including price, will be inserted.
The basket symbol indicates wines where we have stock
available; when a wine sells out, the basket symbol
is removed.)
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St Estèphe
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Cos d'Estournel, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2030 |
12x75cl |
£1,140.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£225.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£639.00 |
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| 2005 |
Les Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France |
2012-2020 |
12x75cl |
£210.00 |
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| 2005 |
La Dame de Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France |
2011-2020 |
12x75cl |
£165.00 |
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Show all wines with notes in printable format |
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Pauillac
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2020 |
12x75cl |
£399.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£276.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château d'Armailhac, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£240.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Duhart-Milon-Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
6x75cl |
£127.50 |
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| 2005 |
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£444.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2019-2030 |
12x75cl |
£4,200.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2020-2050 |
12x75cl |
£5,010.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Lynch Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2030 |
12x75cl |
£483.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2019-2040 |
12x75cl |
£3,750.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Pontet Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£486.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Pichon Baron de Longueville, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£756.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£795.00 |
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| 2005 |
Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£630.00 |
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| 2005 |
Le Petit Mouton, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2020 |
6x75cl |
£219.00 |
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Show all wines with notes in printable format |
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Margaux and Moulis
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Cantenac Brown, 3ème Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2025 |
12x75cl |
£222.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château d'Angludet, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2011-2020 |
12x75cl |
£160.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Kirwan, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£360.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Malescot St Exupéry, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£360.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2019-2040 |
12x75cl |
£4,800.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Palmer, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2030 |
12x75cl |
£1,440.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£153.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2025 |
12x75cl |
£240.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£510.00 |
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| 2005 |
Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux, Margaux, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2025 |
12x75cl |
£450.00 |
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Show all wines with notes in printable format |
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St Julien
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Lalande Borie, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2025 |
12x75cl |
£123.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Beychevelle, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2025 |
12x75cl |
£285.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Talbot, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2030 |
12x75cl |
£282.00 |
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| 2005 |
La Croix de Beaucaillou, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£177.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Gruaud Larose, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2030 |
12x75cl |
£339.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Léoville-Barton, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2019-2040 |
12x75cl |
£510.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Langoa-Barton, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£432.00 |
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| 2005 |
Clos du Marquis, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£291.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Ducru Beaucaillou, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2019-2040 |
12x75cl |
£1,050.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Léoville-Lascases, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2040 |
12x75cl |
£1,695.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Léoville-Poyferré, St Julien, Bordeaux, France |
2017-2025 |
12x75cl |
£522.00 |
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Médoc
and Haut-Médoc
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Beaumont, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France |
2011-2020 |
12x75cl |
£75.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Bernadotte, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£102.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Cantemerle, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2020 |
12x75cl |
£261.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Goulée, Médoc, Bordeaux, France |
2009-2017 |
12x75cl |
£150.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château La Tour Carnet, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£186.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Potensac, Médoc, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2020 |
12x75cl |
£138.00 |
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Pessac-Léognan
and Graves - The
Reds
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Bouscaut Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£132.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Bahans Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2010-2025 |
12x75cl |
£336.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Haut-Bergey Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£160.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2019-2040 |
12x75cl |
£4,500.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2040 |
12x75cl |
£1,410.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château La Tour Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2025 |
12x75cl |
£357.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2010-2025 |
12x75cl |
£381.00 |
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| 2005 |
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2030 |
12x75cl |
£309.00 |
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Pessac-Léognan
and Graves - The
Whites
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Haut-Bergey Blanc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2008-2013 |
12x75cl |
£160.00 |
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| 2005 |
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2011-2018 |
12x75cl |
£450.00 |
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Sauternes and Barsac
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Coutet, Barsac, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2040 |
12x75cl |
£300.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Doisy-Daëne, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£210.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château de Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£234.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Rieussec, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£400.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£400.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£290.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château de Fargues, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£600.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2040 |
6x75cl |
£2,070.00 |
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Mouton-Rothschild tasting room
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Vieux-Château-Certan
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St Emilion
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Angélus, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£1,449.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£435.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Berliquet, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2020 |
12x75cl |
£201.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Canon, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£531.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Canon La Gaffelière, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2025 |
12x75cl |
£510.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Cheval Blanc, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2018-2040 |
6x75cl |
£2,310.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château d'Aiguilhe, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France |
2011-2018 |
12x75cl |
£153.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Figeac, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£660.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Grand Mayne, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2025 |
12x75cl |
£261.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Moulin St Georges, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2020 |
12x75cl |
£282.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château Troplong-Mondot, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2030 |
12x75cl |
£900.00 |
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| 2005 |
Clos de l'Oratoire, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2020 |
12x75cl |
£240.00 |
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| 2005 |
Clos Fourtet, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£450.00 |
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| 2005 |
Petit Cheval, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2025 |
12x75cl |
£690.00 |
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Pomerol
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2005 |
Château Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France |
2015-2030 |
12x75cl |
£600.00 |
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| 2005 |
Château La Conseillante, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France |
2014-2030 |
12x75cl |
£900.00 |
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| 2005 |
Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France |
2013-2030 |
6x75cl |
£500.00 |
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Château
Cantenac-Brown
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Lunch at
Château Olivier
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