Backfill & Diversify Vol. 9
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Here we go again; another Spaniard. Not simply
another Spaniard, either, but another red from the
Ribera del Duero. Ah well. If I taste something of
this quality, I can't decline to offer it purely to
avoid repetition.
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One of the things that makes the Ribera del Duero so
special - and so worthy of multiple listing under the
Backfill & Diversify banner - is its height above
sea level. We're in northern central Spain here and
yes, the summers can be torrid: 40 degrees Celsius is
common in the middle of the day. However, lying at
between 700 and 850 metres above sea level, the heat
of the day is offset by cool, even cold, nights: a
situation desirable to the wine grower, as it adds
finesse to the finished wine, maintaining freshness
and lifting aromatics.
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This estate - originally named Pago de Valdestremero
- was bought by the rioja producer Marques de Vargas
in 2000: one of the reasons why I wanted to have a
look at this wine. I know the Vargas wines of old,
have offered them in Bowes Wine offers past. They are
top of the riojan tree and there was no reason to
suppose that they would have bought an estate in the
Ribera del Duero simply to toy with the thing.
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This is 80% Tinto Fino, the local name for
Tempranillo. It also has bits and pieces of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot in it and is aged in a mixture
of French, Russian and American oak. The variety of
wood and the diversity of terroir available in the
parcellated vineyards of this estate no doubt
contribute to this wine's complexity. No filtering of
the wine is performed before bottling, so nothing's
been stripped away.
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"The 2005 Conde San Cristobal is the same blend as
the 2004 and received the same oak treatment. It is a
bit less fragrant and more marked by oak. On the
palate it is more backward and structured, needing at
least 3-5 years to show its best stuff. Aside from
that, it has a similar flavor profile and a long,
pure finish. Drink it through 2025. 91+%."
erobertparker.com
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Given that this note references the 2004, I thought
that it might be helpful to copy the note on that
wine, too
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"The 2004 Conde San Cristobal is 80% Tinta Fina, 10%
Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and spent 12
months in French, Russian, and American oak.
Purple-colored, it reveals a complex bouquet of
cedar, pencil lead, mineral, spice box, black
currant, and blackberry. It has layers of fruit, a
plush texture, excellent flavors, and light tannin.
It will blossom for another 2-3 years and drink well
through 2020. 91%."
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