2005 Bordeaux – The Peaks are Stellar!

Ducru-Beaucaillou at dawn

It's been two weeks since my return from Bordeaux; two weeks for my head to cease spinning. The cause of my cranial rotation? Well, the quality of the wine was partly to blame, of course, but you've already read a great deal about 2005 in the press, I am sure.

Adding rpm were the rumours about release prices, concerns over availability and the shock of seeing quite so many people tripping around Bordeaux, generally driving quite well, but with their blackened teeth giving them away.

I found a vintage unlike any I have previously tasted. And now I am stuck, for the epithets have already become clichéd, the praise slightly hackneyed. So I beg you to humour me; either that or stop reading and simply wait for the onslaught of a Franco-British campaign that threatens to make Waterloo look like a tea-party.

I'll keep this brief and to the point. Weather-wise, we're talking miniscule levels of rainfall; a record lack of moisture, in fact. At the same time, there was little heat, however. The vintage remained mild and occasionally overcast and the fruit, by the time it was ready to be gathered, was about as good as it gets: fully ripe, with very small berries giving high skin to juice ratio. This means we're looking at a great deal of tannin in the finished wines.

So, structure, ripeness, concentration, as well as the usual balance and length, are what we're after here. Plus, for the vintage to be truly great, we require the wines to be true to type: for Pauillacs to taste like Pauillacs, St Emilions, St Emilions etc.

At its best, this vintage offers all this and more. To my mind, 2005 doesn't offer the homogeneity of, say, 2000. There are notable disappointments and the "lesser" châteaux seemed to struggle proportionately more than their seniors. But at its heights (and, Himalayan-style, the peaks are many), this is, indeed, as good as anything I've ever tasted at this stage.

The best descriptor I can think of is that these wines remind me of elegant monoliths; complex Gothic architecture that will stand trial by time and very possibly flood and earthquake too. These are big wines - high alcohol, tannic, massively fruited - that in no way lack complexity, subtlety and elegance. They are as grand a selection of grands vins you are likely to come across and, provided the prices are at least partially sane, should be cellared with confidence and the expectation of some exotically profound drinking in the years to come.

Château Latour from the terrace at Pichon-Lalande

Best Wines

N.B. it is widely accepted that assessing any wines at this stage of their development is a rather silly exercise. However, the Bordelais want it to be this way, so we have to fall into line.

Those of you who spend time trawling through the various scores and tasting notes published by assorted journalists and merchants will be aware that there are sometimes discrepancies between scores for the same wine and this is unsurprising for several reasons, including sample variation, age of sample etc. In these instances, I would have confidence in the more positive assessment for the simple reason that it is very easy for a barrel sample of a wine this age to show less well than it might. Aside from adding a substance in an attempt to make the sample seem more flattering (a practice largely now extinct), it is very hard to make a wine seem better than it is destined to be. I would go on about secondary fermentations in barrel and micro-oxygenation but I fear their soporific effects on the reader.

The impeccable terroir at Domaine de Chevalier

So, here are my heroes; the wines that really stood out for me.

(When a wine is released by the Bordelais, the full details of the wine, including price, will be inserted.

The basket symbol indicates wines where we have stock available; when a wine sells out, the basket symbol is removed.)

St Estèphe

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Cos d'Estournel, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Notes: "Class in a glass" doesn't even come close. This is rich and black, with complex spice and chocolate notes. Crème de cassis. The chocolate is half milk! Cos is medium-full in the mouth; backward and complete. Extraordinary length and full of juicy grip. Medium high tannins are very fine indeed and it finishes fabulously well and with real punch. 19/20 (Robert Parker 95-97/100)	2018-2030	12x75cl	£1,140.00
2005	Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Notes: There is a rich, cocoa-scented nose about L-R this year and some dry, ginger. This is altogether mineral and savoury. The palate is very backward and could be nothing but St Estèphe. There are minerals galore and fresh, crunchy blackcurrant flavours. Mouthcoating and with great extract, this is 100% terroir. 18+/20. (Robert Parker: 91-93/100)	2017-2030	12x75cl	£225.00
2005	Château Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is almost opaque in the glass; a real midnight hue. The nose is deliciously ripe, creamy and cassi-scented. There are some cocoa bits and altogether excellent purity. Montrose is loaded with structure in '05. There are big, nutty tannins and a real twist of grip. Hmm! Backward and elegant is a neat trick. The grip starts early and builds to a taut finish, full of tension. Very, very long. Superb Montrose. 18.5+/20 (Robert Parker 92-94+/100)	2017-2030	12x75cl	£639.00
2005	Les Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Notes: A richly blackcurranty nose, laced with black pepper touches and a little dark chocolate leads to a really ample palate. The tannins are really very fine and submerged by the rich, black fruit. This is really quite cool in character and there is sophisticated grip. Long in the mouth; again there are peppery notes. The finish is really juicy. 17.5/20 (Parker 88-90/100; The Wine Spectator 89-91/100)	2012-2020	12x75cl	£210.00
2005	La Dame de Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Notes: Excellent nose here: good, pure, rich black fruits; blackcurrants, with a hint of chocolate. This is loaded with fine, rich tannin front front to back. Persistent and medium weight; mineral and juicy with an excellent finish. 17.5/20 (Jancis Robinson 17/20)	2011-2020	12x75cl	£165.00
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Pauillac

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Excellent colour here and a pure cassis nose, very ripe, very rich. Notes of liquorice. This is nutty in the mouth; rich and full of mineral structure. Relatively forward, this is, however, bristling with very fine tannins. Lovely cassis flavours, the palate hangs weightlessly on the tongue. An elegant example. 17.5/20. (Jancis Robinson 18/20)	2013-2020	12x75cl	£399.00
2005	Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Very rich and very black nose. Cake-like and spiced. There's a fair bit of oak evident at present, but the fruit is plump. Nicely rich in the mouth and richly structured. Rich, slightly firm tannins. Long and really intense at the end. The Mouton team have triumphed in this vintage as they haven't for a good few years. 18.5+/20 (Robert Parker 90-92)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£276.00
2005	Château d'Armailhac, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: From the portfolio of Mouton-Rothschild, Armailhac has pulled out all the stops in 2005. The colour is a brooding, moody black. Aromas are smoky, rather reserved, with crunchy-rich blackcurrant aromas and there’s a hint of biscuit oak. In the mouth, this is cool and medium weight and really lively. Pure, blackcurrant fruit; very fine tannins. There’s a touch of mineral grip at the end. 17.5/20 (Robert Parker 90-93)	2014-2020	12x75cl	£240.00
2005	Château Duhart-Milon-Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Floral, rather violet aromas of pure black fruit: cassis and damson. The fruit is silky on entry and there are masses of chunky, rich tannins. Long and mineral; fresh and intense and there is high grip at the end. Very long. A lovely example of Duhart. 18.5/20. (Robert Parker 90-92/100)	2017-2030	6x75cl	£127.50
2005	Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich and warm nose with a touch of biscuit oak. A little Rôti. Very ripe blackcurrants. Plump, sumptuous entry. Very rich and fleshy. At the core, there are medium plus, very fine silky tannins. Fresh acidity. This comes together in a powerful, grippy ending. Intense right at the back. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 92-94)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£444.00
2005	Château Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Impenetrable colour, opaque almost to the rim. The nose is slightly closed, but does give up crisp cassis aromas and a little wood; nuances of liquorice and dark chocolate. Very cool; very backward; very intense and mineral. Juicy-fresh, with cassis and chocolate flavours. There is mouth-coating extract here and the whole thing is rich and precise; chiselled, in fact. Medium, quite firm tannins and juicy, just medium acidity. Chalky/earthy minerals. Very long. Great drive and vim. 19.5/20. (Robert Parker 93-96+/100)	2019-2030	12x75cl	£4,200.00
2005	Château Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Fine colour. Nutty, floral aromas; classic cassis. A wisp of wood and hint of beautiful violet. Very ripe and concentrated. Cool and classic palate. This smothers the mouth with gorgeous tannin: very, very rich. Very ripe and upright. This just ploughs forward unstoppably. Very backward and absolutely endless. Great finesse and balance here. Seamless and mineral. Big grip is present, but virtually invisible. I am almost speechless. Very great wine 20/20 (Robert Parker 98-100)	2020-2050	12x75cl	£5,010.00
2005	Château Lynch Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Warm nose of rich black fruit: blackcurrant and chocolate cake. Creamy, with a touch of dried fruit. This is highly structured. There are chunky, integrated, medium-high tannins and juicy acidity. Great tension to Lynch this year. Full of energy. 18.5/20. (Robert Parker 91-93)	2018-2030	12x75cl	£483.00
2005	Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich, pure and concentrated aromas; full of cassis and blackcurrant, with no hint of the wood. Slightly smoky palate. Backward and very, very persistent. Cool and pure, this swells in intensity. Pure blackcurrant fruit. This is really intense at the ending. Powerful drive, with huge grip at the back. Nutty and mineral and rather classically built. 19/20. (Robert Parker 94-96)	2019-2040	12x75cl	£3,750.00
2005	Château Pontet Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Midnight black colour. This even looks thick in the glass. A good deal of wood spice here, along with rich, pure, very black fruit. Blackcurrants and damsons and dark chocolate. Very rich in the mouth; fluid and concentrated. Loaded with firm tannins and high minerals. Cool and pure and crunchy and juicy. Full of intensity and grip. Very long, composed and fine. 18.5+/20.	2016-2030	12x75cl	£486.00
2005	Château Pichon Baron de Longueville, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Opaque ruby purple in the glass. This is rather closed, although there are ripe black fruits in evidence. IN the mouth, this is very rich, very cool and full od integrated, very fine tannins. This is very, very long and gains in intensity through the palate. Mineral and fr5esh and black. This is brilliant. 18.5+/20.	2017-2030	12x75cl	£756.00
2005	Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Lovely ripe nose, showing really good depth and an excellent purity of blackcurrant fruit, along with a spicy, warm, gingery note. Hints of violets. This is very cool and backward; more mineral than the 2nd wine, with huge, elegant grip. Blackcurrant, crunchy ripe fruit. Very, very long and composed, the tannins are integrated fully and medium and fine. This is very fresh, as well as being the best P-L I have tasted for years. 18.5+/20.	2017-2030	12x75cl	£795.00
2005	Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Lovely colour. Floral, rich nose. Very ripe cassis notes in almost cake-like concentration. Prunes and flowers. Cool, composed palate. Medium weight, but, my, what a profile. Integrated, firm, rich tannins. Super-long. Tangy plums, with a touch of skins. Juicy-fresh. Compact and full of everything it needs. Very, very classic claret. Fine grip, right to the end. 19/20. (Robert Parker 92-94)	2017-2030	12x75cl	£630.00
2005	Le Petit Mouton, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Really floral, this. Slightly chocolaty, with crunchy red and black fruits: plums, damsons and blueberries. Nice concentration. This just coats the mouth. Very fine, paste-like tannin. Length and grip; juicy-fresh. Damson plums again. Nice grip at the back. 17/20.	2014-2020	6x75cl	£219.00
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Margaux and Moulis  

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Cantenac Brown, 3ème Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: (Tasted twice) A rich, pure, broad, crème de cassis nose. Very, very ripe. Very fine, integrated tannins and fabulous sustained grip. Backward and mineral and very long. There is real power at the back. Crunch! Cool, concentrated and backward. Sophisticated and harmonious. 18.5/20. (The Wine Spectator 89-91/100)	2016-2025	12x75cl	£222.00
2005	Château d'Angludet, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is a little closed at the moment, but give it some agitation and crunchy blackcurrant fruit emerges.   This is such a complete Angludet. There are some very fine, chunky, nutty tannins and lots of fresh grip. There a great crunch at the end and lashings of plump Cabernet fruit. This is the best young Angludet I have ever tasted. 18/20. (Parker:90-92/100)	2011-2020	12x75cl	£160.00
2005	Château Kirwan, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: Pronounced aromas of toasted oak and ripe black fruits, some dried. Cassis. Very cool palate; very complete. This gets bigger in the mouth over time. Chocolate oak. Nice concentration. Mineral and super-intense at the end. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 93-95+)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£360.00
2005	Château Malescot St Exupéry, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: There’s a great deal of oak on the nose of this young wine, but also a wealth of rich blackcurrant fruit, good and pure. The palate is backward, with very rich, velvet tannins. This is fresh and highly concentrated and the fruit in the mouth is plush and laced with well expressed minerals. Finest Malescot for years. 18.5+/20 (The Wine Spectator 95-100)	2017-2030	12x75cl	£360.00
2005	Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: Without question, this is top rank in 2005 and a simply fabulous Margaux. Great intensity of colour in the glass. Very rich and black nose; some dried fruits, but largely blackcurrant, cherry and a little floral. Very concentrated aromas. Fluid, plush, seamless fruit greets the palate. Very concentrated and cool and nutty. Rich and natural and fine and grippy tannins. Then the grip kicks in and just rolls on. Subtle and powerful. Wonderful wine 20/20 (Robert Parker 96-100/100)	2019-2040	12x75cl	£4,800.00
2005	Château Palmer, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: Fabulous ruby purple colour. Aromas of apple blossom, ripe, sweet berries, fresh plum, cherry and blackcurrant. Hint of liquorice. In the mouth, very cool. A little violet in flavour. Rich and concentrated, with a lot of fine tannin. Nice, swelling grip. High-but-ripe tannin. Finely balanced. 19/20 (Robert Parker 94-96/100)	2017-2030	12x75cl	£1,440.00
2005	Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: Poujeaux is slightly reticent on the nose at this stage, but give it a swirl and delightful, floral, berry-like aromas emerge, with red fruit dominating. Take a sip and one finds a plump, sumptuous entry. The palate starts fleshy, then becomes nutty and structured and full of grip, communicating serious intent. The tannins are pure Moulis (i.e. with an earthy quality). This is chewy and long and mineral and very, very good Poujeaux indeed.	2014-2020	12x75cl	£153.00
2005	Château Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: Nose here is a jam-rich compote of bramble and blackcurrant fruit, very broad and hinting at chocolate. The palate belies the compote, with cool and crunchy and compact; highly grippy; apple pippy. Very long and very mineral. The price of R-G has yet to catch up with the upswing in quality here. 18/20 (Robert Parker 90-93)	2013-2025	12x75cl	£240.00
2005	Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: There is a creaminess to the fruit on the nose here. A little rôti. The palate is cool and creamy on entry. Composed and complete wine. Mineral, with lots of chunky, integrated tannins. Fine profile, with a full, intense finish. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 92-94/100)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£510.00
2005	Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux, Margaux, Bordeaux, France Notes: Floral, rich, black cherry notes; rather beautiful. A little wood. Rich and fleshy in the mouth. Black cherry again. Some liquorice. Nutty, very fine tannins, very ripe and high. Really juicy and long. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 90-93/100)	2014-2025	12x75cl	£450.00
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St Julien

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Lalande Borie, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is a property owned by Ducru-Beaucaillou. Quality has been pushed ever higher and I was mightily impressed with the ’05. The vineyard lies between Talbot, Gruaud-Larose and Lagrange; a healthy pedigree, in other words!   Delightful floral nose of pure blackcurrants. This is rich and pretty with hints of liquorice. In the mouth, the Lalande-Borie is firm, with chunky, quite firm tannins. It is mineral too and something of a keeper. Medium-weight and impressive. 17/20.	2013-2025	12x75cl	£123.00
2005	Château Beychevelle, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: Richly concentrated nose; some wood spice, some dried fruit and a dash of fresh plum and blackcurrant. The palate here is creamy-rich, black and mineral. There is real concentration, length and grip to Beychevelle this year. Full of vivacity. Crunchy and grippy. This château is on a roll. 18+/20 (Robert Parker 91-93/100)	2016-2025	12x75cl	£285.00
2005	Château Talbot, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: There is a crunchy, quite high-toned nose with some, almost peppery, spice. There are interesting herbal notes too. This is very backward with really bold, firm tannins and a big mineral imprint. Great power and bite. There tension speaks of a wine really going places. This is very, very long, brilliant Talbot. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker: 92-94/100)	2015-2030	12x75cl	£282.00
2005	La Croix de Beaucaillou, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: The 2nd wine of Ducru-Beaucaillou is the finest I have ever tasted this year.   The colour is opaque, the aromas broad and rich and utterly delicious. This is essence of fruit – crème de cassis – and very St Julien. There is a little nutty wood and a hint of ginger spice. Very pure. The entry is a cool, fluid wave of fruit. Then the minerals kick in. this is full of vim and liveliness; intense, with a really juicy finish. Some firm tannin here. 17+/20. (The Wine Spectator: 89-91/100)	2014-2020	12x75cl	£177.00
2005	Château Gruaud Larose, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: Very rich, ripe, oaky, coffee-scented nose. Real concentration to the aromas. Black, pure fruit and a little dark chocolate. Wood spice. Fluid entry, then backward, with a serious mineral component. Power here, and subtle grip. Very concentrated blackcurrant and damson fruit. Just goes and goes. 19/20. (The Wine Spectator 89-91/100)	2018-2030	12x75cl	£339.00
2005	Château Léoville-Barton, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes:	2019-2040	12x75cl	£510.00
2005	Château Langoa-Barton, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: Lovely pure, fresh fruit aromas: blackcurrant, blueberry, a little chocolate. This is full of structure; very backward and really quite mineral. Powerful at the end, with real intensity. Purity, freshness. This is brilliant Langoa 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 90-92+/100)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£432.00
2005	Clos du Marquis, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: Fabulous black colour. Very rich, deep, concentrated nose. Spiced plums and ssugared blackcurrants. Wood spice. The palate is fluid and plump and cool and violet tinted. Very rich, ripe tannins. Everything's nicely integrated here. 18.5+/20 (The Wine Spectator 92-94/100)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£291.00
2005	Château Ducru Beaucaillou, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: There's an almost fudge-like concentration to the aromas here and yet this is pure and extremely rich. There's a touch of nutty wood and ginger spice. In the mouth, the '05 Ducru is very mineral and very composed and full of firm tannins. Very long, fresh and delicious. 19/20 (Robert Parker 92-94+)	2019-2040	12x75cl	£1,050.00
2005	Château Léoville-Lascases, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich, slightly roasted, nutty, blackcurrant nose. There's a welt of almost tarry black fruit. Smoky, meaty, with a hint of violets. There is a mass of disarmingly supple fruit on entry, smothering the minerals and rich tannins. This is a very powerful, cool, masculine wine. Big stuff. Super-rich, with high grip. This is pure and classical. Runaway cathedral! 19.5/20 (The Wine Spectator 95-100)	2018-2040	12x75cl	£1,695.00
2005	Château Léoville-Poyferré, St Julien, Bordeaux, France Notes: Nutty, liqueur-like, oaky nose. The blackest chocolate and bramble. Plump, sumptuous fruit on entry, becoming very backward, compact and gaining in intensity. Full of minerals and grip. Fresh, powerful and long. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 92-94/20)	2017-2025	12x75cl	£522.00
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Médoc and Haut-Médoc

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Beaumont, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: There is a really excellent natural concentration about the fruit on the nose here. No obvious over-extraction. A wealth of red and black fruits: cherries. The palate is full of the best sort of 2005 tannin (and this is a tannic vintage, don't forget). There is good crispness and superb length.   As so often, Beaumont's punching well above its weight. Fine concentration. This is a real keeper. N.B. I remember drinking, with great pleasure, the 1986 of this wine in the late 1990s. The '05 will last even longer.	2011-2020	12x75cl	£75.00
2005	Château Bernadotte, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: Delicious, pure, slightly floral aromas of black currants with hints of savoury wood spice This is full of nutty, grippy tannins; real tension here and fine equilibrium. There is purity to the black currant fruit. Fresh, medium-weight, intense and long. 17.5/20.	2014-2020	12x75cl	£102.00
2005	Château Cantemerle, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich nose, showing quite a bit of oak at present. But the fruit is ripe and broad. This has real length in the mouth and fine concentration. The tannins are entirely credible, the whole package the best Cantemerle I have tasted for many a year. 16.5/20. (Robert Parker & The Wine Advocate: 89-91/100)	2015-2020	12x75cl	£261.00
2005	Château Goulée, Médoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: Goulée is made by Jean-Guillaume Prats, scion of the erstwhile owners of Cos d’Estournel and now wine maker at that château. Goulée is situated at the northern end of the Médoc and is planted to old Cabernet vines. Prats takes his gloves off here and makes a full-throttle, modern wine.   The nose here is rich, with roasted elements and black, smoky, crunchy damson fruit. It’s a little meaty too. There are lots of rich tannins here and slight clove spice. This is long and full of ripe fruit of the blackest sort. Nice grip and minerals. 16.5/20 (Parker: 89-91/100)	2009-2017	12x75cl	£150.00
2005	Château La Tour Carnet, Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: A modern, concentrated nose of black cherry and oak. The palate here is very impressive: backward and rich, with big, firm tannins; great length and concentration. This is a fine ambassador for the vintage. 17+/20 (The Wine Spectator 89-91/100)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£186.00
2005	Château Potensac, Médoc, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich, deep, blackcurrant and plum aromas, quite meaty. There's a touch of chocolate here. Very good concentration to the palate. This is mineral and berryish in the mouth. Very long and structured for the long haul. 17.5/20	2013-2020	12x75cl	£138.00
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Pessac-Léognan and Graves - The Reds

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Bouscaut Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Delicious, ripe, plum-and-chocolate nose. The entry is fluid, plump and plum-and-chocolate too! This is very concentrated, with fine, nutty tannins and nice, subtle grip. This is compact, backward and shows off fine grip at the end. 18/20. (The Wine Spectator 89-91/100; Jancis Robinson 17.5/20)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£132.00
2005	Château Bahans Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is a little closed today, but aromas can be coaxed out; aromas that include floral notes, black cherry, blackcurrants and plums. There’s a hint of liquorice root. The tongue meets a very cool wine; fresh, albeit with only medium acidity. Fine tannins and minerals combine with flavours of black cherry. Nicely grippy. This finishes very well. 18/20	2010-2025	12x75cl	£336.00
2005	Château Haut-Bergey Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Really rich, black plum nose here, with wisps of almond-scented oak and hints of chocolate The entry here is all about plush black fruit, followed up by mineral notes. This is done in a modern style, but the balance is all there. Nutty and full of rich tannin, this is grippy and very, very long. 17.5/20. (Parker: 91-93/100)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£160.00
2005	Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Plummy, very rich nose. Prunus flowers. A creamy, cool, compote of black fruits. Very cool and loaded with fine tannins. Massive grip and minerailty here. Pure black plum and cherry fruit. Very juicy. Big wine. Fully structured. Brillaint 19.5/20 (Robert Parker 96-100/100)	2019-2040	12x75cl	£4,500.00
2005	Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Lovely pure, blackcurrant nose. Floral notes. Damsons with a hint of plum skin. Some wood. Some black cherry. Some spice. Very rich, concentrated, fluid entry. Full of tannin right from the off. The grip starts subtly and takes off. Laden with minerals and black cherry and blackcurrant fruit. Great drive and purity here. Nutty. Really subtle and intense. Great Wine 19/20 (Robert Parker 95-97/100)	2018-2040	12x75cl	£1,410.00
2005	Château La Tour Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Really quite closed, although some dried fruits emerge. Some black cherry notes. The entry is fresh. A complete wine, well integrated. Cool, with big nutty tannins. Black plum fruit. Full of grip. Really good profile here. This just goes and goes. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 90-92/100)	2014-2025	12x75cl	£357.00
2005	Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Floral, ripe berry aromas, cassis and fresh plum. Touch of wood. The palate is rich and concentrated and there is a hint of mocha from the wood. The fruit is pretty and fresh. This is a composed and complete wine, full of grip. A beauty! 18/20.	2010-2025	12x75cl	£381.00
2005	Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Floral, with notes of toasty oak. The nose here is really very ripe, with complex and delicious,. Creamy Cabernet aromas. On the palate, Domaine de Chevalier is full of nutty tannins, all held well in check. Wow, this is embryonic, but fresh and juicy, coll and classic. Fabulous profile in the mouth. This is great Dom de Chev and fine wine. 19/20. (Robert Parker 91-94/100)	2015-2030	12x75cl	£309.00
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Pessac-Léognan and Graves - The Whites

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Haut-Bergey Blanc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: Really pungent nose of toast and crushed Choisya leaves (this is an ornamental shrub, by the way, commonly known as the Mexican Orange. The leaves, when crushed, smell very herbal). The palate is crunchy-fresh and herbal. There are slaty minerals, too. Juicy, with lemon notes. A great example of this great vintage. 18.5/20 (Parker: 90-92)	2008-2013	12x75cl	£160.00
2005	Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is very, very young and, as such, rather closed. It gives up light white berry and nut aromas if pushed. The quality is evident on the palate, however. This is backward, but very nicely composed. The parallel profile speaks of a fine future and there is subtlety with the power. Smoky, with chalky minerals and medium acidity. Very persistent and rather beautiful! 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 91-93/100...and I think he’s being mean)	2011-2018	12x75cl	£450.00
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Sauternes and Barsac

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Coutet, Barsac, Bordeaux, France Notes: Prepare theyself! This is one of the big releases of the vintage for those keen on the sweet stuff. Jancis Robinson gives this 19/20. I was 19+/20. I have never tasted a young Coutet of this class. It really is essence of Barsac. Lovely nose of botrytis and peach, toast and lemon. Very rich aromas, including dried citrus peel. Very fleshy and rich, this Coutet. It is fluid and backward and highly mineral. There is excellent drive and purpose and a really fine lift at the end of the palate. Very young, with steely focus and intricate structure. This is a must for lovers of Bordeaux’s great sweeties.	2016-2040	12x75cl	£300.00
2005	Château Doisy-Daëne, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is stuffed with botrytis and there are notes of angelica, lemon and nut. The palate is saturated, thick: really concentrated; super-rich. Orange and lemon fruit collides with botrytis is spades. Really fresh and mineral, nutty and balanced. This is very, very long. Lovely Doisy-Daëne.   "...Very flattering and charming. Lovely texture and freshness...18-/20." Jancis Robinson	2015-2025	12x75cl	£210.00
2005	Château de Rayne Vigneau, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes: I have a few “pet” Châteaux around Bordeaux and this is right up there on the list of them. I am still drinking the odd bottle of the ’88, which is quite simply sublime. The ’05 will be better still. Delicious aromas of spiced apples, lemons and a floral touch that I noted as chamomile. Flavour-wise, I picked up green oranges. The whole thing was very rich and nutty and underpinned by lemon-fresh acidity. Intense, mineral and very, very long. 18.5+/20.   "...Lovely obviously botrytised appetising wine with great winning layers of pear juice and very fine acidity...18.5/20." Jancis Robinson	2016-2030	12x75cl	£234.00
2005	Château Rieussec, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is rather closed at the moment, but there is a broad note of botrytis and toasty lemon notes This is structured, with great richness of fruit; very backward and mineral and complete. There are flavours of green orange that carry right through the fine profile. This is very, very persistent. 19/20.   "...Very very sweet but with enormous acidity too and depth. 18/20." Jancis Robinson	2015-2025	12x75cl	£400.00
2005	Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes: Delicious floral notes of lemon and nut. There are herbal notes from the Sauvignon and it’s all wrapped up in a cosseting botrytis envelope. This is really very rich, with crystalline fruit of lemon and tangerine. Fine composition and big grip. Very, very long, with a fabulous finish. 19.5/20.	2015-2025	12x75cl	£400.00
2005	Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes: Fresh and pure citrus aromas are to be found here, along with honey and flowers This has great subtlety this year, but no lack of seriousness. Very mineral and structured, grippy and intense. This is one beautiful Sauternes, rich and flowing: a river of fruit! 19/20.	2015-2025	12x75cl	£290.00
2005	Château de Fargues, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is made by the former wine maker at Yquem and it shows. The nose is highly citrus: neroli and lemon. There is a lot of botrytis and notes of crushed herbs. Angelica and starfruit. The tongue is greeted by a super-rich weal of fruit: pineapple, peach and apricot skins. The palate shows loads of botrytis too. Very mineral and with superb follow-through. Great Sauternes. If someone told me this was Yquem, I would have no problem believing it. 19+/20 (The Wine Spectator 95-100)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£600.00
2005	Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Notes:	2018-2040	6x75cl	£2,070.00
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Mouton-Rothschild tasting room

Vieux-Château-Certan

St Emilion

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Angélus, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: (Tasted twice) Very mocha-oak scented nose including meaty, slightly rôti aromas and plum, bramble and some dried fruit. The palate is cool and supple; very long, slaty and brambly. Powerful stuff. Fabulous finish. Great purpose here. 19/20 (Robert Parker 96-98+/100)	2015-2025	12x75cl	£1,449.00
2005	Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: (Tasted twice)Oaky, smoky, meaty nose of blueberry and plum. Some dried frui; some bramble. This is very, very concentrated across the tongue and boasts a fabulous profile. Brambly, firm fruit and great length. Highly grippy and age-worthy and full of very natural, meaty tannins. This is brilliant B-S-B 18.5+/20 (Robert Parker 92-95/100)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£435.00
2005	Château Berliquet, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Plum, plum skin and black cherry aromas, rich and ripe. The palate is very broad, plush and plump; super-ripe, supple, with plummy fruit. This is really chunky, mineral and quite forward in the company of the other St Ems. Delicious stuff. 17.5/20. (The Wine Spectator 88-91)	2013-2020	12x75cl	£201.00
2005	Château Canon, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich and pure nose. Aromas include ripe red apples, black cherry and bramble. Quite oaky at the moment. Cool and natural palate, loaded with chocolaty, mineral fruit. Richly tannic. Very long with a fabulous finish of real intensity. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 90-93/100)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£531.00
2005	Château Canon La Gaffelière, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Pretty, very berry nose. Touch of cocoa and blackcurrant. Rich, concentrated black fruit on the palate. Backward and richly tannic. This is a mouthcoating wine, with real power at the finish. Ripe and pure. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 92-94/100)	2014-2025	12x75cl	£510.00
2005	Château Cheval Blanc, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Very pure, deep, black nose of blueberry, damson and leafy blackcurrant. The palate is choc-full of ripe, nutty tannins. This is one complete wine and one of the wines of the vintage; better than Ausone this year. Very cool, rich and composed. Very long, subtle and full of grip. 19.5+/20 (Robert Parker 95-98)	2018-2040	6x75cl	£2,310.00
2005	Château d'Aiguilhe, Cotes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France Notes: Stefan von Niepperg’s made some of his best wines ever this year: a suitable huzzah to this extraordinary vintage. This is floral, with berry-plum aromas, plus a touch of iodine and chocolate. The palate here is fluid-ripe and full of rich, fine tannins. Aiguilhe this year is more backward and compact than I have ever tasted it. It is also juicy and fresh and very long, with that deliciously ripe, fat plummy fruit. This just bathes one’s taste-buds in unashamedly delicious flavours.	2011-2018	12x75cl	£153.00
2005	Château Figeac, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Red and black fruit, as is so often the case with Figeac. There are some notes of dried fruit, as well as blueberry and bramble; almost an orange peel note. Apple blossom. In the mouth, this is medium weight, concentrated and very mineral. Essence of bramble fruit. Parallel. Very long and juicy. A fine, very persistent wine. 18.5+/20 (Robert Parker 91-94/100)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£660.00
2005	Château Grand Mayne, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Tasted twice. Chocolate and bramble nose, fresh and pure. There is a wealth of creamy black fruit here and a great deal of rich tannin. This is a large-scale St Emilion, grippy and powerful. I love it. 18+/20. (Robert Parker 91-93/100)	2014-2025	12x75cl	£261.00
2005	Château Moulin St Georges, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Midnight black in colour. The nose is super-deep, very black, almost inky. Black cherry and plum, with delicious dark chocolate aromas. Hints of new wood. The palate starts with a supple, plump entry. Chocolate and black cherry/plum fruit, very mineral and highly grippy. Nutty. Richly tannic. Full of fresh grip. 18/20 (Robert Parker 91-93/100)	2013-2020	12x75cl	£282.00
2005	Château Troplong-Mondot, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Very ripe, slightly spicy black fruit nose of blueberry and wood. A touch roasted. Fluid, cool fruit. Masses of big tannins, some wood derived, I suspect. I tasted this twice and wow, is it backward. Chunky and full of grip. 18+/20 (Robert Parker 96-100/100)	2015-2030	12x75cl	£900.00
2005	Clos de l'Oratoire, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Floral, black, very ripe-but-focussed bramble fruit. A little wood. Rich palate, with chunky medium tannins, some woody. Backward. The tannins are squeaky like fine sand. Very long and pure. This bristles with intent. 18.5/20 (Robert Parker 91-94/100)	2013-2020	12x75cl	£240.00
2005	Clos Fourtet, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Rich, oaky, black and rather delicious nose, meaty and Bramble/plum scented. Very cool in the mouth, with a fine, parallel profile. Masses of rich, integrated tannin. Grippy, natural and delicious. 18.5+/20 (Robert Parker 94-96/100)	2016-2030	12x75cl	£450.00
2005	Petit Cheval, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France Notes: Fine colour here: a black mulberry. The nose is very ripe, nutty and blackcurranty with a meaty note. Really fresh. Bramble and blueberry. Very cool entry to the palate; a fluid and concentrated wave. Very compact and fine grained. Very composed. This really is mini-Cheval. 18.5+/20   "...The 2005 may be the finest example of this cuvee yet produced...90-92/100." Robert Parker	2013-2025	12x75cl	£690.00
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Pomerol

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2005	Château Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Notes: This is fabulous Pomerol, as it should be at this price! The nose is delicious and of chocolate, flowers, blueberry and bramble. In the mouth Clinet is very cool and very concentrated; very composed and controlled. There is great subtle follow-through and vast length. Nutty and very fine wine. 19/20.	2015-2030	12x75cl	£600.00
2005	Château La Conseillante, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France Notes: A high-toned compote of mixed red and black fruits: cranberry and bramble. Touch and dark chocolate. Rich, fine and mouthcoating. Long and full of grip. Powerful at the end. Fresh and crunchy and fine. Very, very long. 19/20 (Robert Parker 93-95+/100)	2014-2030	12x75cl	£900.00
2005	Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Notes: Fine colour. Nose is of apple blossom and delicious, rich, pure berry fruit, including some blackcurrants. The palate is supple, very cool and very pure; elegant and yet powerful. Very pure blackcurrant fruit. Juicy fresh acidity. Great length. More merlot here this year. 18.5+/20 (Jancis Robinson 19/20)	2013-2030	6x75cl	£500.00
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Château

Cantenac-Brown

Lunch at

Château Olivier