2005 Rhône
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Taking the Rhone Valley, north and south, as a single
entity, we're talking about something that resembles
a bird's-eye-view of an igloo, the entrance of which
points more or less directly north. If the northern
part of the valley - home (and quite possibly birth
place) of the syrah (shiraz) grape and such luminary
appellations as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Cornas - is the
narrow access tunnel to the ice-built structure
(cramped, a bit chilly and no more than a portal
through which one passes to one's ultimate
destination), then the southern Rhône is the
room inside: a warmer, more airy atmosphere in which
one feels that one could quite happily spend some
time; a more relaxing environment in which to remove
one's seal skins and pull up a whale blubber pastie
or two.
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Arriving in the northern Rhône we found no
relief from the frenetic activity presented by a
short-haul European flight, rather an hour-and-a-half
mad dash to reach our first appointment in Ampuis, that small town that
huddles beneath the awesome heights that are both
valley wall and the vineyards of Côte-Rôtie. The northern
Rhône is not really a place for the tourist to
idle away his or her time. Wine enthusiasts come here
to see the Hill of Hermitage or worship at the
dizzying slopes at Ampuis
and Condrieu. Then they
move on. This is no place to dawdle.
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The vineyards of Côte-Rôtie rear above the town
of Ampuis
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A day or two later, we drove to the top of the Hill
of Hermitage to bend a knee at the chapel that is to
be found there and to take in the extraordinary view.
But where one's eyes can feast on a truly sumptuous
vista, one's ears, even at that height, are filled
with sound of mechanical noise: a soundtrack to the
industry going on below.
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A view from the top: the chapel on the Hill of
Hermitage and the Rhône below, snaking into the
distance
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From Tain
l'Hermitage, one drives south
between the narrow cleft of the valley for some
distance. And then, quite suddenly, one meets with
something one can only describe as a sort of birthing
experience. The valley walls fall away from each
other and one pops out into what feels like clearer
air and a softer landscape. One has left the northern
Rhône and its continental climate behind and
arrived in the Mediterranean regions of the world and
one feels all the better for it.
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In the south, one finds a rolling landscape that
flattens into something that would impress a
Dutchman. As far as the eye can see, rows of vines
pattern an area otherwise as featureless as an unlaid
table. We drive to Gigondas and climb the Dentelles de Montmirail, to the foothills of
which that beautiful town clings. From their summit
one can really get a feel for the sheer size of the
territory in which one finds oneself. This is one big
plain and one significant slab of vinicultural endeavour.
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The teeth-like ridge of the Dentelles…
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…and the view from the top
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The Vintage
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“…there is an ocean of top wines.”
Robert Parker
'05 was many things, but it certainly wasn't hot.
These are not flamboyant wines like those seen in
1998 and 2003. They lean more towards the '01s, in
that they have a firmness about them; a structure
that will see them ageing into the medium to long
term. And they are fresher than most. I like them
very much. And whilst, at this stage, they could be
said to be masculine, quite angular and
“square”, they are certainly fine,
everything – fruit, tannin, acidity, alcohol
– being present in impressive quantity.
N.B. Whilst travelling in the region, we had the
opportunity to have a first look at the 2006 vintage.
What we found was a vintage that, at this early
stage, looks to be as exciting as its immediate
predecessor, the wines more supple than in 2005 and
very beautiful with it.
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The Estates and Wines
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N.B. I have included scores and select words from
Robert Parker's (RP) tasting notes of the southern
Rhône wines on the
offer. He has yet to release his notes on the
northern Rhônes.
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Gilles Barge
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We are very glad to have found a pair of
Côte-Rôtie
producers that perfectly illustrate the divergence of
styles one finds in the appellation. Barge, one time
president of the local growers’ syndicate,
makes wines in a traditional style, eschewing the use
of new wood and preferring instead to use old foudres (large oak casks
that vary in size from 150 to
350 hectolitres). I love this style:
very natural and expressive.
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Domaine Bénetière
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Pierre Bénetière works
out of what could fairly be called a hobbit hole of a
cellar in Condrieu. This
is a not a producer for the Côte-Rôtie purist as
Pierre’s cuvées see a high percentage of
new wood. Yes, they are oaky, but, boy, are they
intense and very beautiful. A new-ish domaine run by a young man
healthily obsessed.
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Domaine Remizières
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This is not a new domaine to us. We offered the
2003s; they were outstanding and happily very well
taken up by Bowes Wine clients.
Philippe Desmeures is
proprietor and wine maker here and has a pragmatic
view: make many different cuvées, some oaked, some not, and you up
one’s chance of pleasing all the people all the
time. Me? I’m tickled pink. I loved pretty much
everything we tasted, old wood and new wood, 2005 and
2006.
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Philippe Desmeures
taking a sample from a
foudre
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2005 |
Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Christophe, Domaine des Remizières, Northern Rhône, France
Notes: Meaty, cakey syrah fruit, a touch marked by wood. Some dark chocolate aromas. This has a pillowy, rich entry; very plump. Then it becomes very mineral and juicy. Plums, very ripe. Medium plus acidity. Square, rich tannins. This is brilliant Crozes.
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2012-2018 |
12x75cl |
£129.00 |
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| 2005 |
Hermitage Blanc Cuvée Emilie, Domaine des Remizières, Northern Rhône, France
Notes: N.B. This is Marsanne, with 4 or 5 % Roussanne
Nutty nose here, of small oranges and dried peach. Touch of pineapple exotica and star fruit. Very, very rich in the mouth; creamy and concentrated. Soft-ish entry. This gains subtly in mineral intensity. There are notes of fennel and angelica. Very long this, with low-medium acidity. Lots going on at the finish. Real juicy crunch to be found there.
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2009-2017 |
12x75cl |
£300.00 |
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| 2005 |
Hermitage Rouge Cuvée Emilie, Domaine des Remizières, Northern Rhône, France
Notes: Opaque black, ruby purple in the glass this. The nose is cake-like, with some dried fruit aromas. Hint of cinnamon, perhaps. Very rich, plush fruit on entry. Concentrated, then full of mineral grip. This just ploughs on, with a lovely parallel profile. Juicy plums and their skins. There's real lift at the end. Fine wine.
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2014-2030 |
12x75cl |
£312.00 |
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Clos des Papes
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“The Clos des Papes has always been one of the
appellation’s reference points.” Robert
Parker.
I would agree, but typically in Châteauneuf the
style here is unique (with 240 producers, 3 major
terroirs and many
minor, plus 13 grape varieties to play with it is
quite hard to say that constitutes a typical
Châteauneuf). Neither rustic nor especially
modern. I find something akin to burgundy here.
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The cellar at Clos des Papes, with samples
awaiting our attention
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos des Papes, Paul Avril, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: The nose here is all warm and spicy, giving up red and black fruits: cherries, plus a liquorice note. In the mouth, this is very concentrated and nutty, with red and black plums, flavours of chestnut. This prickles with intensity and grip…and then those serious, chunky, rich tannins! As brilliant as ever and a real keeper.
(RP94-96+/100 "…a fabulous bouquet…a blockbuster finish…a knock-out wine…")
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2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£333.00 |
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| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos des Papes, Paul Avril, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: Delicious fresh fruit aromas of yellow cherry and freshly cut, ripe pears, along with wisps of almonds. The palate is very rich, plump and plush; both knit and composed. The fruit is peary, with nutty length. There are minerals, well covered by the fruit. This is very long, nicely grippy and elegant wine.
(RP 93/100 "This is also one of the finest estates for white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which can often be very long lived.")
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2009-2016 |
12x75cl |
£285.00 |
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Domaine de Pégau
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“…one of Châteauneuf du Pape’s most majestic,
old-style, robust, superconcentrated, blockbuster
wines.” Robert Parker.
Laurence was away when we visited, but M Féraud, her father, was
there to receive us. He has a heavy regional accent;
the word for wine being pronounced “vang”: just one of the
eccentricities to which one has to bend one’s
ear. The wines here are wild and wildly complex.
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The antique
foudres
and
demi-muids
(6 hectolitre
barrels) at Pégau
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservée, Domaine de Pégau, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: Very rich, creamy nose, a touch meaty. Fresh mushroom skins and a hint of anduillette. Red and black plum fruit and a liquorice note. Creamy, gamy and complex in the mouth; mineral and very rich. Full of grip and this is cool and structured, with medium, integrated tannins and a juicy-fresh finish.
(RP 92-95+/100 "…muscular, full-bodied flavors…all the essence of Provence…")
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2014-2025 |
12x75cl |
£330.00 |
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Le Vieux Donjon
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“This is one of the great unheralded estates of
Châteauneuf du Pape.” Robert Parker.
They evidently don’t welcome attention at Vieux Donjon. The domaine has
no sign outside and Madame Michel had to stand
outside in the rain and flag us down as we passed.
And I am glad that she did. Vieux-Donjon is, in my humble
opinion, among the top handful of producers of the
appellation.
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The tasting room at Vieux Donjon with Mme Michel
preparing to pour
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vieux-Donjon, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: This is absolutely classic Vieux-Donjon in that it manages somehow to combine power and grace. The fruit aromas and flavours are cherry and ripe bramble interlaced with spice, including liquorice root. In the mouth, this is rich and pure and full of the blackest fruit. The length is out of sight. I wonder whether this will end up like the 1990 that I tasted recently. I suspect that it will be at least as good and at least as age-worthy
(RP 90-93+/100 "…beautiful balance and purity.")
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2012-2025 |
12x75cl |
£228.00 |
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Domaine Giraud
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Here’s an estate on which to keep an eye.
Marie, the Giraud
daughter, is now making the wine here, whilst her
brother has taken over viticultural duties. I find
quintessential Châteauneuf in these cellars in
wines that can be drunk quite early or kept until the
dust gathers. There is now a stunning 100% Grenache
cuvée: something I very much hope that they
will stick with.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Classique, Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: This is a touch closed at the moment, but there are proper meaty Châteauneuf aromas, along with fresh mushroom and smoke and an interesting citrus note. In the mouth, I found smoky bacon flavours and black and red fruits in abundance. Medium weight and cool, rich and vibrant. This is composed, very long and subtle wine.
(RP 89-91/100 "…wonderful sweetness, purity, and mouthfeel.")
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2011-2017 |
12x75cl |
£174.00 |
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| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Gallimardes, Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: A wealth of red and black cherries to the nose here. There's also a similar citrus note to the fruit, as if oranges were mixed with those cherries. Take a sip and the entry is very plush. This, too, is rather closed up, but very cool, with a nice, subtle density of fruit. Richly structured and fresh, with fine grip here. Good stuff.
(RP 90-92/100 "…considerable elegance and power…")
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2012-2020 |
12x75cl |
£231.00 |
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| 2005 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grenache de Pierre, Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: This is pure Grenache from Giraud's best vineyard. The fruit is pure black cherry, with a lifted orange aroma. There's a touch of pepper and meat about it. This is very concentrated and very cool and mineral, long and full of subtle grip. Very fine. Nothing hot here. Just pure and profound Grenache. Lovely wine.
(RP 92-94/100 "A new cuvée and a spectacular one…")
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2012-2020 |
12x75cl |
£300.00 |
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Moulin de la Gardette
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“Proprietor Jean-Baptiste
Meunier owns a small estate of
17.4 acres from which he produces a classic
Gigondas.” Robert Parker
Jean-Baptiste is one of
those wine makers who is
happy to spend as much time as you can allocate him
speaking about his wines, the winery, vineyards and
pretty much anything. I always think that this is a
good sign. It shows passion and one is always
hopeful, when meeting with this phenomenon, that one
will go on to find the same passion in the wines. We
certainly did. The “basic” cuvée
is excellent; the Ventabren an exceptional
Gigondas very much in the traditional mould.
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Jean-Baptiste
Meunier drawing off a sample
from a cement vat
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2005 |
Gigondas Ventabren, Moulin de la Gardette, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: N.B. This is 10% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and 70% Grenache
Nutty, black fruit nose, with good breadth of Grenache and hints of liquorice. There's a floral note, too, of roses perhaps and a twist of black pepper. Cool and silky in the mouth, with some nutty, chunky tannins. This is persistent and fresh with really good grip. Complete and balanced, with a very long, mineral finish.
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2011-2018 |
12x75cl |
£162.00 |
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Domaine St Préfert
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I am really very chuffed
that we’ve managed to secure a small allocation
of wine from here. St Préfert changed hands
some 5 years ago, being bought by retired banker,
Isobel Ferrando and her
politician husband. They had that requisite asset
needed for the resuscitation of a wine estate –
hard cash – and have spent it to great effect.
I was very, very excited when I tasted these. Serious
stuff indeed.
N.B. Do note that the red Châteauneuf below is
product of the fine 2004 vintage, rather than 2005.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2004 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Auguste Favier, Domaine St Préfert, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: N.B. This is a blend of Grenache and Cinsault
Spicy, cassis-scented nose here. The palate is rich and nicely concentrated, with black plum fruit. The tannins are rich, but integrated, the whole thing very mineral and very long and really quite backward. Full of freshness and grip. Fabulous wine.
"...certainly a candidate for one of the superb Chateauneuf du Papes of the vintage...93-95/100." Robert Parker
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2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£261.00 |
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| 2006 |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine St Préfert, Southern Rhône, France
Notes: The nose here is very floral, with aromas of chamomile and tangerine. Rich with some dried fruits. This is cool in the mouth, highly concentrated and structured; very mineral. Parallel profile. Very, very long, with pear fruit flavours. Nice grip at the back. Very, very long and fine wine.
("…I thought it was stunning." Jancis Robinson writing about this wine on her website.)
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2011-2020 |
12x75cl |
£222.00 |
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