2006 Rhône Offer – A Bracing Concentration

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The South

Centenarian Grenache vineyard with the Mont Ventoux behind

To travel from the northern to the southern Rhône is to voyage from a continental climate into a Provençal one. Here one finds a drier, less green landscape and climatic conditions affected by the proximity of the Mediterranean Sea. One also finds things much flatter, as much of the region is a wide plain.

This is wilder terrain, sparsely freckled by stunted herb bushes that perfume the air into a heady, warm soup; a soup one is more than happy to drink in when travelling to the region.

As in the north, the wines resemble their surroundings. They are broad and warm and often give off those scents of the garrigue: that herbal note that emanates from the thyme and rosemary plants growing wild in the sun-drenched earth.

Much has been made of the panoply of grape varieties that the wine makers of the south have at their disposal, especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and it is a fact that the wines of this region are, at their essence, blends. And yet the core of all these wines is Grenache, a variety much maligned for producing a sea of cheap, characterless tat from young, over-producing vines planted on the wrong soils, but one that is gaining in stature year-by-year where yields are controlled and the vineyards have attained a proper state of maturity.

Street in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The Vintage

2006 has produced a style of wines of great class and style in both the northern and southern parts of the valley. Whilst '05 threw up solid wines, wines that will require some years in one's cellar, 2006 offers an unusual purity, freshness and focus; no bad thing, especially in the south where Grenache can sometimes gallop out-of-control towards over-ripeness. Allied to their freshness is great concentration: a combination that is something of a Holy Grail for wine makers and growers alike.

The Growers

Pierre Usseglio

The improbably clean cellars; Thierry in full flow

Of Italian descent, the Usseglio family is now split into two domaines in Châteauneuf, this one, which is run by brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre and that owned by their uncle Raymond and run by his daughter.

One can scarcely believe that this is a working winery. Such is the cleanliness within it appears more like a model or a museum than the real thing.

The wines here just go on getting better and better. Here's Parker: "This estate has been on an outrageous run of successful vintages ever since 1998…2005 is a very structured, concentrated, powerful vintage…Their 2006s are among the great successes of that vintage…"

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition, Pierre Usseglio, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault.   A richly cake-y nose meets the taster i.e. very proper Châteauneuf. There are some dried fruits, including fig, as well as Provencal herbs, milk chocolate. The fruit is all black plum, backed by a wisp of coffee.   This is creamy in the mouth, with a wealth of red and black fruits: bramble and cherry. It is mineral and fresh and gains in intensity throughout its length to a finish loaded with fine grip. The tannins are very fine and integrated. I found blueberry notes at the end. Long and nutty and delicious. "The 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition is a brilliant wine…91-93/100." Robert Parker	2012-2020	6x75cl	£99.00
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mon Aieul, Pierre Usseglio, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah.   N.B. x2 We have very little of this wine and those buying a spread of other wines will be favoured!   A very rich, very black nose emerged from my tasting glass, giving aromas of treacle cake, molasses, tar and spice. There are black fruits galore, some of which are dried. Dry spice and cocoa powder, along with dried meat and herbs and black olives.   When this goes into the mouth, the fruit is creamy and supple. Then it becomes very mineral and highly grippy and altogether more serious. There are some integrated, very fine tannins and highly concentrated black plum fruit. This is very intense at the end. Wowsers.   "…one of the vintage's most majestic wines. 96-98/100." Robert Parker	2014-2022	12x75cl	£480.00
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Domaine du Pégau

The ancient door to an antique vat at Pégau

Here's one of the places to come if you're looking for a taste of traditional Châteauneuf at its best.

The vintage really suits this style of wine not that there's ever anything wrong with it! Yet the freshness of 2006 adds dimension to the meaty, slightly rustic fruit.

Laurence Feraud had broken her hand at Vinisud in a car crash and was suffering a bit. Small dogs played at our feet. There seems to be a never-ending supply of the things, including one that they rescued after it was dumped in their vineyard.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve, Domaine de Pégau, Southern Rhône, France Notes: The nose here is spicy with liquorice aromas. There is a suggestion of chocolate to the black cherry and damson fruit; hints of earth, roasted game.   This is very mineral in the mouth and these minerals support small plum and black cherry fruit of great concentration. There are nutty, firm, integrated, ripe tannins and a hint of coffee at the finish. This is powerful and rather elemental at the moment, but with such potential.   "…there's no question that the Ferrauds have pulled much more material out of this vintage than many. 91-93/100." Robert Parker	2013-2020	6x75cl	£172.50
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Domaine Giraud

Marie Giraud, our tasting and one of the more playful of the domaine’s dogs

Behind pink/orange walls and a large electric gate in the town of Châteauneuf fine things are happening. Marie Giraud and her brother François are steadily taking their estate into the upper levels of the galaxy of wine producers in this most wine-centric of towns.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Classique., Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre.   This is very deeply hued: opaque, with a very narrow band at the rim. The aromas are rich, a touch meaty, a little floral and the fruit is ripe black cherry and plum.   In the mouth, the first impression is of creamy black cherry fruit nuanced with flavours of hedgerow berries; damson and sloe; rosehip? There are expressive mineral underpinnings and rich, firm, nutty, very fine tannins. This is long and grippy and really firm at the end. If this is entry level wine, what comes next?   "Very jubilant, almost triumphant cocktail of ripe fruit and spices…18/20." Jancis Robinson	2012-2020	12x75cl	£180.00
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Gallimardes, Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah.   This is really rather closed up at the moment, presenting some floral black cherry aromas with coaxing, but not much else.   The palate, however, speaks volumes: This is very, very rich, very cool, with crème de mure fruit, very pure. This is laced with minerals and is subtly very powerful. Grippy and very long. Myrtles? Pure and finely composed. Super stuff.   "Very serious and ambitious special bottling. Well done, Giraud! 18.5/20." Jancis Robinson	2014-2025	12x75cl	£231.00
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grenache de Pierre, Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. As the name suggests, this is 100% Grenache and from a sandy soiled vineyard to the north of the town.   Floral, very ripe aromas of ripe red and black cherry fruit. There's a note of sweet leather and dry spice. I noted turmeric.   Flavours of black plums abound as well as a sweet peanut note. This is very ripe and structured, a touch smoky. Black cherry and spice compliment the high grip and minerals. This is elemental; very long and backward.   "A strong statement of a wine this which promises lots of alcohol and pleasure. 18/20." Jancis Robinson	2014-2025	12x75cl	£321.00
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Clos des Papes

Clos des Papes has a new cellar with some interesting features. Here, a doorway leading to…terroir!

Vincent Avril, proprietor and wine maker here, is less parochial than some of the wine producers one meets in Châteauneuf. He has less of that distinctive southern twang to his accent and his wines are widely known and widely appreciated. During our tasting he receives a 'phone call on his mobile from André Ramonet, one of the finest exponents of white burgundy. Vincent has to pause to relate a tasting note of one of André's wines that Vincent had consumed with dinner the previous evening. Each vintage, the Delon family of Château Léoville-Lascase swap wine on a case-for-case basis with Clos des Papes. Vincent tells us that he currently has 70 cases of Lascases in his cellar: the result of this arrangement.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Clos des Papes, Avril, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. As usual, the wine was not yet assembled, so we tasted a range of blends that, in turn, will be blended together to make the final cuvée. The note below is an amalgam of my notes.   N.B. x2 As ever, this wine will be in massive demand and in allocating it, I can only take account of the volume of other wines bought by those requesting Clos des Papes.   A melange of red and black fruits: cherry and nut and crystallised plums. Spicy/peppery; leathery.   The palate is rich and richly structured. There's a meatiness here and a wealth of ripe tannins that varied in firmness between the various cuvées. I found bramble, blueberry, chestnut fruit, along with some dried fruits. Florality and minerality were both in evidence. We tasted a theoretical final blend which smelled of kirsch and meat and leather, redolent of red and black cherry. This is amazingly cool considering its not inconsiderable alcohol content. Oh dear. Another nigh-on perfect Clos des Papes.   "…a sexy, hedonistic style of Châteauneuf du Pape that puts it among the very finest of the vintage. 96-98/100." Robert Parker	2015-2030	12x75cl	£357.00
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos des Papes, Avril, Southern Rhône, France Notes: Very rich on the nose, this, and giving off ripe and pure pear juice aromas. There are hints of nut and green orange; almonds and liquid minerals.   From a very rich nose to a very rich palate. This has expressive minerality beneath super-ripe pear fruit. There is juicy-fresh orange-like acidity and a long, long finish. Touches of tangerine and lemon. Fabulous finish here. Either drink it very young, or keep it 8 years or so; perhaps a bit of both!	2010-2018	12x75cl	£252.00
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Château Saint Cosme

I met up with Louis Barruol in London to taste this 2006s. For many years, Saint Cosme has been producing among the finest wines of Gigondas and Louis is pushing quality to ever higher levels.

In addition to his domaine wines, he has added a range of negoçiants labels, bearing the name Saint Cosme i.e. minus the denomination "Château". Upon these he lavishes the same quality to detail. The results are scintillating.

Interestingly, Louis's family owns a vineyard in Gigondas called Le Poste, the soil of which is unique in the appellation for being entirely limestone. The resultant wine is amazing; almost more a burgundy than a southern Rhône wine. He makes a very little of it and I tasted it in London. Following a high degree of begging, scraping and assorted sucking up, I have managed to secure a 6-bottle case for the Bowes portfolio. I will wax lyrically about it when it's mature in, perhaps, a decade's time, so keep an eye open…

As mentioned, this exemplary producer in Gigondas buys in fruit to extend its range. Their Côte-Rôtie is listed in the Northern Rhône offer  under the name Saint Cosme.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price
2006	Côtes-du-Rhône Les Deux Albions, Château de Saint Cosme, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 50% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Carignan and 10% Clairette (yes; a white grape!).   N.B.x2. When I first tasted this wine, I thought drinking dates of 2010-16 would be suitable. I have no doubt that the wine will drink superbly until 2016, but having tried it recently, I can say that it is drinking very well, esecially if given time to breathe and preceded by a mouthful of meat.   This is really quite closed, but there are some fresh black cherry and plum aromas intertwined with scents of purple flowers. It hints at dark chocolate, too.   This is creamy across the tongue and shows very black fruit. There are rich and nutty tannins in profusion right through this. This is backward and highly structured, with medium acidity well hidden beneath the fruit. Very, very long. There's fabulous energy to the finish.   "...an almost Guigal Côte Rôtie La Mouline-like floral complexity to the black fruit character. 90/100." Robert Parker	2010-2016	12x75cl	£129.00
2006	Gigondas, Château de Saint Cosme, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre and 1% Cinsault.   Lovely colour to this wine in the glass: a deep, limpid ruby The aromas are fresh, of red and black cherries, although more red than black.   This is ripe and really quite liqueur-like and delicious. A creamy palate and red cherry fruit. Rich and ripe, with paste-like tannins. Lots of mineral complexity. Great composition. Fresh, with good drive and length and intent. Grippy at the end. Another extraordinary "entry level" wine.   "Barruol represents all that is good that is happening in France and other countries…90-92/100." Robert Parker	2010-2020	12x75cl	£135.00
2006	Gigondas Valbelle, Château de Saint Cosme, Southern Rhône, France Notes: The nose here is really quite raw and unknit at the moment. There are some tarry black fruit aromas and scents of plum and charred meat.   However, in the mouth, this is very cool and concentrated and mouth-coating. There is silky red and black fruit, with distinct spicy/peppery notes. A richly fruited wine, but tannic with it. Very long and backward and elemental. Chunky, very ripe tannins. This is very mineral. The most powerful of the Gigondases here.   92-95/100 - Robert Parker	2014-2025	6x75cl	£135.00
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St Préfert

Isobel Ferrando looks relaxed about the quality of her ‘06s

Tasting with Isobel Ferrando is an absolute delight. She is both charming and interesting to listen to and has immersed herself in both this domaine and her negoçiants wines, labelled as Colombis.

Isobel's husband is mayor of a local town and Isobel herself was once a banker. They have invested heavily in St Préfert and the returns on that investment are evident in the glass.

"Since the talented Isobel Ferrando began making the wines at Saint-Préfert, quality has soared…She also demonstrates a terrific knack of turning out great dry whites." Robert Parker

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Auguste Favier, St Préfert, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 85% Grenache and 15% Cinsault.   The nose is all about pure black fruits. This is almost cassis-y. Damson and floral notes, plus a meaty, animal aspect. A hint of violet and the ripest red apples.   This is cool and quite backward. There are rich, firm, fine tannins and a pile of minerals. This is very long indeed and full of fresh grip. Complete and juicy and complex at the finish, to which the blackcurrant and plum fruit gallop. Great stuff.   91-93/100 - Robert Parker	2012-2020	12x75cl	£222.00
2007	Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, St Préfert, Southern Rhône, France Notes: N.B. This is 80% Clairette and 20% Roussanne, treated to 33% new oak.   The nose is rich, hinting at very ripe pears, plus peach. There are some dried peach skin aromas, as well as tangerine and a twist of aniseed/fennel.   The entry is all about fluid, concentrated pear fruit...then the structure arrives. Firmly mineral, controlled, with a distinct aniseed kick. Acidity is medium-fresh and the whole thing very long indeed. It just barrels forward across the palate to a very mineral, even smoky, stone-y finish. Candied lemons; nutty. Very fine wine.	2010-2018	12x75cl	£222.00
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Domaine de Trévallon

Proprietor Eloi Durrbach in the cellar at Trévallon

"Trévallon is one of the best, and best-known, wines of Provence." So stated Remington Norman in his book Rhône Rennaissance.

Trévallon has existed since 1973, when Eloi Durrbach decided to plant vines at a property his parents had purchased as a holiday home in 1960.

The vineyards are parcellated and the soil a blasted-looking mass of limestone chunks. It faces north, which is why Eloi decided that Cabernet was preferable to either Grenache or Mourvèdre, neither of which ripen well with this exposure. Cabernet is also the reason behind Trévallon's classification; the local appellation laws only allow the inclusion of 20% Cabernet in the wines, so Eloi now labels his wine Vin de Pays des Bouches de Rhône.

The principles here are simple ones: restricted yields and an avoidance of chemical treatment in the vineyard.

The Trévallon red is now a 50:50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The combination of limestone and a northerly exposure give rise to a wine that relies more on complexity than power. It is also a wine that ages very well in the cellar, taking years for its full potential to be realised.

Eloi himself is an extremely nice man. His eyes have a twinkle of humour about them and he speaks with unbounded confidence about his estate and its wines…and so he should. They are superb!

The limestone rubble that is the soil at Trévallon

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Trévallon Rouge, Domaine de Trevallon, Vin de Pays des Bouches de Rhône, French Country, France Notes: This wine was yet to be blended, so I include below my tasting notes of the Syrah and Cabernet cuvées:   Syrah A ripe, black cherry nose with a strong spice element (smoked paprika!). There are floral notes too. Fresh and pure on the palate. There is crisp black fruit in this backward wine. It is compact at the moment, but swells in the mouth, underpinned by rich, crisp tannins. Full of life and vigour.   Cabernet Sauvignon A deep, ripe, liqueur-like, spicy nose; meaty, with some dried fruit aromas. This is rich and yet closed. A BIG wine, rich and nutty. Fresh and very long and mineral, with great energy and lift at the end. Fabulous stuff.   The two together will rock like a monkey and makes very serious old bones.	2015-2025	12x75cl	£291.00
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Domaine Tempier

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Bandol Cuvée Classique, Domaine Tempier, Bandol, France Notes: A sweet nose of black fruit, chestnuts, liquorice root and aromatic pipe tobacco. The fruit is black cherries, a little meaty. This is really fresh, just medium weight, showing cool fruit. Very compact and backward. There's great juicy lift at the end of the palate. Very, very long. Great harmony here, as well as tension. Fabulous finish. This is very fine. "The Mourvèdre-based red was austere at first, but opened up to reveal a rich core of delicious fruit. Not unlike Locke-Ober itself. I rated the wine 91 points," Thomas Matthews at The Wine Spectator	2013-2025	6x75cl	£81.00
2006	Bandol Cuvée Tourtine, Domaine Tempier, Bandol, France Notes: Great purity here to the ripe black plum and cherry fruit. There are floral, violet aromas and a hint of andouillettes, but don't let that put you off! Notes of ginger and chestnut, concentrated and pure. Pure, floral flavours in the mouth. Rich and integrated tannins. Fabulous profile and very fine mineral content. This is long and very backward, fresh, pure and super-fine. This is usually my favourite cuvée.	2016-2030	12x75cl	£252.00
2006	Bandol Cuvée Migoua, Domaine Tempier, Bandol, France Notes: The nose here is all about its purity of black fruit. It really is very pretty. There are brushstrokes of black rubber and flowers to the canvas of fresh cherries and small pointilliste daubings of black pepper and chocolate. A sip brings a supple, chocolate and black cherry entry. As one the nose, the fruit in the mouth is very pure and punctuated by minerals. Right at the wine’s core there is really fresh acidity and fine, rich tannins. This is both very pure and very lovely.	2016-2030	6x75cl	£126.00
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