Backfill & Diversify Vol. 4

The Producer

Bodegas Catena-Zapata has been producing wine for over a century in the Mendoza Valley in Argentina, but has really come of age under the auspices of Dr Nicolas Catena-Zapata, its current owner.

It’s difficult to overstate the influence of this man, who bestrides the Argentine wine industry like an Olympic gymnast on the pommel horse. He was named 2004 Wine Personality of the Year by The Wine Advocate, Robert Parker Jnr’s bi-monthly publication. In The Wine Spectator, James Molesworth states, “One grape and one man are leading the country's march toward wines of quality and character,” and goes on to point out that “…almost all the country's top wines are made by Catena's Bodega Catena Zapata winery”.

If this sounds a bit one-sided, that’s because it is! The man and his wines rise head-and-shoulders above the pack of Argentine wine producers.

The Wine

This is 100% Malbec, a grape that was a staple in Bordeaux, but that has now become increasingly rare in that region. In European terms it is now more famous for being the backbone of the red wines of Cahors. Personally, I prefer the Argentine versions. I find them purer, lacking the (sometimes extreme) earthiness of their French counterparts. And they are at least as age-worthy.

Catena has conducted exhaustive research into the terroir of his vineyards of the high Andes. This wine comes from assorted plots, variously 2,850’, 3,100’, 3,000’, 4,600’ and 4,725’ above sea level.

Accolades

The 2004 Malbec Catena Alta came top in the Malbec Made for Meat competition held in the Gaucho restaurant in Picadilly. It also took Best with Lamb and Best with Beef in the same taste-off. Perhaps more significantly, Robert Parker gives it an upbeat 94 points and says, “…It offers greater aromatic complexity with notes of pepper, clove, leather, and chocolate in addition to violets, black cherry, and blackberry. Medium-bodied and elegant, it has a plush texture, layers of spicy black fruits and minerality, excellent balance, and a 60-second finish. It will evolve for 5-7 years and drink well through 2025.”

Almost equally chipper, The Wine Spectator bids 93/100, stating, “Dark and lush, with a gorgeous mouthfeel to the exotic fig, boysenberry and blueberry fruit flavors backed by intense spice, mocha, loam and licorice notes. Superlong, showing great drive and purity on the finish. A beauty.”

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2004	Catena Alta Malbec, Bodegas Catena-Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina Notes: A very deep, pinky ruby colour, with a very, very narrow band at the rim of the glass. The nose is of black fruit, but the fruit itself is rather elusive. In fact, we didn't find this the easiest wine to taste for the first three hours after opening, thus I was glad we managed to retain some for the next day, of which more later. The aromas are very black, rather floral. I found, perhaps, bramble, maybe damson. There is dry spice overlaying this. Roses and a touch of rubber (a Meatloaf concert?!). The entry is fluid and silky. There are medium, very ripe, velvet tannins. This is long, a touch warm; mineral, with very good intensity. Juicy, very long finish. After 24 hours - Hints of cocoa and graphite to the floral (roses), black, nutty fruit aromas. Loaded with minerals and nutty, medium, ripe tannin. Fresh and focussed and long. Great tension. Crunchy, fresh plum fruit. Intense and fabulous.	2012-2020	6x75cl	£123.00
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