Backfill & Diversify Vol. 6
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It’s the turn of South Africa to grace the
pages of our Backfill and Diversify offerings and
this is something of a landmark moment, as the wines
of this beautiful country have, to date, only
appeared on Bowes Wine offers of ready-to-drink
wines. I just hadn’t found any especially
exciting examples that I thought would benefit from
cellarage.
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Roaring into my field of consciousness and playing
deftly with my taste buds has come a wine from the
Sadie Family: the 2006 Columella, made by Eben Sadie.
Eben did the European
tour, studying approaches to terroir and how to
maximise its influence. The answer? Do as little as
possible in the winery, as much as possible in the
vineyard.
Columella is now regarded
as being one of the top handful of red wines of the
Cape, by many the best of all.
N.B. Columella is a blend
of Shiraz and Mourvèdre.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2006 |
Columella, The Sadie Family, Swartland, South Africa
Notes: When first opened - An almost opaque ruby purple colour. The nose is controlled and immediately more Old World seeming than New. I found brooding bramble and damson fruit, plus hints of spice, dried fruits, tar, cocoa powder, sweet leather and nut paste. Above at all, there's a piercing high purple note; the voice of a castrato berry. The palate backs up the sense that this is a more European style of wine. Crunchy damson fruit loaded with minerals and grip. There are some fine tannins and really good intensity.
After 20 hours - This has not really opened out that much, which augurs well for its intended time in the cellar. There are peppery notes and black cherry fruit, which is nicely ripe. There's a very slight cake-like aspect to the fruit; sweet herbs and biscuit tins. The dark chocolate aroma is perhaps the wood. Silken fruit of black cherry and plum on entry, followed quickly by the very fine, paste-like tannin. There's a wealth of minerals and juicy acidity to be found. This is a fresh wine, with fine grip at the end. Very long, with a delicious, tangy aftertaste. This is an elegant wine and a harmonious one.
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2010-2016 |
6x75cl |
£186.00 |
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"Dark and alluring, with currant paste, fig sauce and
dark plum notes that glide over rich but fine-grained
tannins. Hints of mesquite, melted licorice and bittersweet ganache fill out the finish.
Has plenty of length and concentration. This should
fill out with moderate cellaring. Syrah and Mourvèdre. 94/100." The
Wine Spectator
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