France – Aspects of the South

Just one of the vineyards that make up the 50 hectares of Domaine de Nizas

France's southern wine regions are broadly split into two camps. The south west incorporates the Cabernet-based Bordeaux-alikes clustered east and south east of that city, as well as everything else from there to the Atlantic seaboard, the (red) wines becoming wilder and earthier the further from Bordeaux one travels. And then there’s Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon i.e. everything on France's Mediterranean coast and inland there from.

It is the wines of the latter region that are more widely known, the south west being overlooked for one reason or another: the Cabernet-based wines are often poor imitations of claret or simply poor; the Cahors and Madirans are just too earthy and chewy, a problem stemming from the traditional varieties of these appellations and one that some proprietors are starting to circumnavigate by altering their wine making practices.

The Mediterranean-influenced south east makes sunnier wines, influenced by the benevolent climate. Here also one can find wines touched by the influence of Bordeaux, wines with Cabernet and Merlot in their blends. But these varietals are the exception and, where found, are partnered with others more typical of the region - Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault - that macerate the blackcurrants and sprinkle them with exotic spice. The wines on this offer both come from here.

The Wines

2006 Les Armières, Domaine de la Garance, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault,

Murielle Clavier et Pierre Quinonero’s ideas about how to make fine wine give one heart. Their vineyards are densely planted and are harvested in numerous passes through the vineyard so as to ensure that only the best fruit is picked. The wines are given a light fining with egg white and are bottled without filtering, preserving as much character of the vineyard in the finished wine as possible.

The result? These are quirky wines of the highest quality. The red is an absolute classic, the white nutty as a fruit bat.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2004	Les Armières, Domaine de la Garance, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, French Country, France Notes: N.B. This wine is mostly old vine Carignan with a touch of Syrah. Really floral notes to the nose of this wine, plus there are meaty hints like andouillettes and fresh mushroom skins. Smoke overlays the fruit aromas of fresh black cherry and salted red cherry. Touches of smoky bacon, spice and sweet chestnut. Take a mouthful and the wine is initially cool, the texture silken. Like a powerful coupé slowly accelerating, the palate picks up pace and intensity right through to a long, lively finish. There quite a bit of tacky tannin here, but nothing that won't be resolved through a period of cellaring or the accompaniment of a large slab of meat. The cherry fruit is both red and black again and the medium plus acidity is integrated and fine. This is backward and very mineral; very long and balanced. There's a lot going on here. Excellent and rather fascinating.	2010-2016	6x75cl	£63.00
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N.B. I am hopeful of bunging the white wine from this domaine - named Les Claviers - out with The Daily Drinker. It is an anachronism, if not an atavism. It’s made from Ugni Blanc, one of the worst thought of white varietals around, plus Sauvignon Blanc and Terret and I absolutely love it, at least partially because it would give Australian wine makers the screaming ab-dabs.

2004 Côteaux du Languedoc, Domaine de Nizas

There's been considerable wine culture at this estate since its change of ownership in 1998. In that year the property was bought by an American called John Goelet who already had wineries in the Napa Valley in California (Clos du Val) and Victoria and Tasmania in Australia (Taltarni and Clover Hill respectively) in his portfolio. He also had the assistance of Bernard Portet, son of the erstwhile director of Château Lafite and a man who had driven the success of Clos du Val in the 1970s.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2004	Côteaux de Languedoc, Domaine de Nizas, French Country, France Notes: N.B. This wine is a blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Grenache This is almost opaque in the glass and has a delightful ruby purple colour out to a pinkish narrow band at the rim. The nose is instantly fresh, with hints of spice; black pepper, perhaps. The fruit aromas are pure, of small plum and cherry. There's a nuance of dried herbs, as well as something resinous. The palate manages manages that trick of being both cool and rich at the same time; richly structured as well. There are lots of fine, largely integrated and slightly furry tannins but, as with the wine above, this is a drink made to accompany food. There are big minerals and great freshness here. It's long, too, and will certainly develop with time in bottle. There's delicious plum and cherry fruit in the mid-palate;  lovely chestnut taste left in the mouth.	2010-2015	6x75cl	£45.00
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