2007 Burgundy – Ambrosial Meursault
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Our hosts at Domaine Bernard-Bonin, Véronique as bohemian as
ever
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If the wines of Puligny have all the drama of an epic
poem and those of Chassagne the wildness of Ted
Hughes at his bucolic best, the liquids emanating
from Meursault drip mellifluously from the pen of one
of the romantics. This is not blank verse; rather it
shines with elegant metre. These are wines of sheer
and unashamed enjoyment.
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Domaine
Buisson-Charles
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My first visit here and one to which I was greatly
looking forward. A mention of the domaine in other
cellars had produced universal and favourable
comment: not something that's especially common in
Burgundy. The estate is tiny - a scant 12 acres are
exploited - and the quality is very high, at least
partially because most of the vineyards are seriously
antique.
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I spoke to someone in Burgundy who recently attended
a tasting in Beaune to which vignerons brought their own
bottles for others to try. 20 year-old examples from
this cellar were still fresh as a daisy, by all
accounts.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2007 |
Meursault Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France
Notes: A rich nose that blends aromas of nut and orange with some that hint at dried fruit.
In the mouth, this is immediately ripe and easy going, with slightly honeyed, nutty fruit. Stage 2 of the palate slips into a different gear, turning very mineral and controlled. The minerals are expressed very finely. There a sweetness to the fruit and then a delightful lift at the very end bringing the palate to a highly satisfactory conclusion. This'll be delicious quite soon.
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2010-2013 |
12x75cl |
£210.00 |
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| 2007 |
Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouches Chères, Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France
Notes: N.B. Bouches Chères is one of the longest lasting of the Premiers Crus in the village; generally a more solid wine that repays extended cellaring.
Hazelnut abounds on the nose, as well as smoky, ripe yellow fruits. Again, there's a note of dried fruit to be found.
A very supple entry finds fresh structure hard on its heels. Yellow, liqueur-like fruit luxuriates on an underlay of meaty minerals. This is very cool, elegant and composed. That's finish of powdered rocks tells you a great deal about the soil in Bouches Chères. And what a finish!
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2012-2018 |
12x75cl |
£360.00 |
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Domaine Bernard-Bonin
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This is the estate that was named Michelot
Mère et Fille. Véronique’s
exuberant style of dress is belied by the style of
her wines which exude confidence, precision and
purity. I love them.
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Meursault boasts a couple of storming lieus
dits in Tillets and Narvaux. They lie next to one
another on the slope above the strip of Premiers
Crus. A lieu dit is a vineyard that, whilst
not deemed to be of cru quality, has sufficiently
lofty terroir to deserve a name of its own that may
be included in the labelling.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price In Bond |
| 2007 |
Meursault Les Tillets, Domaine Bernard-Bonin, Burgundy, France
Notes: A rich, concentrated, crystalline nose of lime flowers and minerals and the lemon fruit. Diamond-like facets to the aromas here.
This etches itself across the palate, with its expressive, floral, lemon fruit and crunchy, purposeful texture. Structured and dazzling, like a flash of halogen in the dark of a cellar.
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2010-2014 |
12x75cl |
£264.00 |
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Domaine Philippe Chavy
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Like the Michelots, there
are a great many Chavys
making wine in this neck of the woods. I like
Philippe's wines the best. They have a precision and
tension that I find deeply exciting.
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Good work for a Burgundian
tiler…
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