2007 Burgundy – Puligny and Chassagne

Some of the 2008 whites were still fermenting during my visit

Puligny and Chassagne are, like a number of appellations in Burgundy, conjoined twins, linked by vineyards shared by both communes; in this case, the Grands Crus of Le Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet straddle the border between the two. Puligny can boast the totality of a couple of other “seniors” in Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, whilst Chassagne’s only wholly enclosed Grand Cru vineyard is the rare Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (producing a meagre 550 cases a year, no wonder it’s rare!).

Puligny in definitely considered the pick of these two communes, a reputation that is not entirely fair in my view. Reasons for its loftier reputation might stem simply from the fact that the village of Puligny – closer to Beaune and just off the N74 (the main road that runs beside the Côte from here all the way up to Marsannay in the north of the Côte de Nuits) – is more presentable having, as it does, a more prosperous air. Chassagne, on the other hand, is a more workmanlike settlement. To get to it one has to turn off that main wine road. What one finds when one arrives is something of untidy sprawl of houses and cellars, albeit a sprawl with a great deal of character.

In terms of the style of wines produced in the two villages, Puligny could be said to be more “upright”. The minerality here finds a focus that gives the wines a masculine and somewhat aristocratic bearing.

The wines of Chassagne are altogether more sauvages. The influence of the soils comes across as a wilder, less precise mineral expression, yet they lack nothing in complexity and excitement.

I often find the terroir of Chassagne to be more diverse, more challenging; ultimately more rewarding. Having said that, I seldom complain when either is in my glass!

The Chassagne 1er Cru Les Caillerets from Domaine Guy Amiot

Domaine Philippe Chavy

Like the Michelots, there are a great many Chavys making wine in this neck of the woods. I like Philippe's wines the best. They have a precision and tension that I find deeply exciting.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2007	Puligny-Montrachet., Philippe Chavy, Burgundy, France Notes: An incisive nose, full of clearly defined aromas thath include lemon, nut and a wisp of smokiness. Complexity is augmented by notes of powdered minerals and lime blossom. This has a rich, fresh palate with a distinct nuttines. There are smoky minerals to the great sweel and grip in the mouth. Excellent substance to this highly mineral wine. There's grippy crunch at the back and a fabulous finish. Classy Puligny.	2011-2015	12x75cl	£330.00
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Domaine Bernard-Bonin

This is the estate that was named Michelot Mère et Fille. Véronique’s exuberant style of dress is belied by the style of her wines which exude confidence, precision and purity. I love them.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2007	Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, Domaine Bernard-Bonin, Burgundy, France Notes: As ever, a very floral nose including dried minerals and camomile. The fruit is of tightly focussed lemon with a hint of dried fruit, too. This is clean and pure across the tongue. The fruit is deliciously ripe and combined with the powdered minerals. A nice, laid-back palate. Small oranges. This is finely balanced and there is subtle strength to be found at the end. Profound stuff.	2012-2017	12x75cl	£462.00
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Domaine Guy Amiot

Can there be a better source of excellent value, fine quality white wines in Burgundy? I doubt it. A visit here is an exercise in understanding the soils of the commune of Chassagne and the influence those soils have on the finished wine. The Chaumées is new to this domaine.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2007	Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées., Guy Amiot, Burgundy, France Notes: A very mineral nose here and the lemon fruit is present, although a touch closed. It's the palate thaht really impresses here, so vigorous is it and really quite backward. The minerals are fine and chalky, the lemon fruit like the thrust of Vader's light sabre. There's fabulous linear shape and a live wire tension. The finish is pure class. Very lemony whole for the time being, but just you wait!	2011-2015	12x75cl	£279.00
2007	Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets., Guy Amiot, Burgundy, France Notes: As ever, this just offers a bit more of everything over and above the other 1er Crus in the cellar. The nose is very mineral, that chalkiness coming through again. Fruit is of crisp pear and smoke and spice. The palate has a richness allied to great freshness that starts right at the front. Very mineral and backward. There's concentrated structure and ripe fruit, plus hints of pepperiness here. Long, complex and highly impressive.	2011-2016	12x75cl	£291.00
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N.B. Allen Meadows AKA The Burghound has now reviewed the white wines of the 2006 and I copy below his opinions of the two Amiot wines we offered last vintage. We still have limited stock of both. Clients ordering a case of 2007 Amiot will have the chance to add a case of 2006 with 10% discount:

2006 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, Guy Amiot £252 in bond Drink 2011-16

“(from 70+ year old vines on original chardonnay plant material – Amiot calls this le vrai chardonnay or the true chardonnay). A background touch of wood highlights the notably ripe and very Chassagne nose of resin, earth and a hint of the sauvage that combines with the citrus and orchard fruit aromas before merging into rich, full and relatively powerful flavors that possess plenty of punch on the vibrant and sappy finish. Lovely and really quite forward so this should be accessible young. 90/100.”

2006 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Guy Amiot £264 in bond Drink 2011-17

“(from two parcels, one of 30 year old vines and another of 70 year old vines planted on le vrai chardonnay; raised in 50% new wood). As good as the Vergers is, this is a clear step up in elegance and

class with a ripe, pure and seductive nose that features aromas of pear, white flower and subtle if evident minerality that continues onto the rich, full and intense flavors that deliver good precision on the long and refined finish where a discreet touch of pain grillé also surfaces. 91/100.”

To go to our offer of 2007 Meursault, click here