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2002 Vintage Champagne

 

It now looks as though Champagne has experienced an extremely fine vintage in 2002. The wines are concentrated, finely balanced and many will reward patience when cellared.

 

The problem we have in offering champagne vintages is that they are released in staggered formation. Some have been sold through; many others have yet to be released.

 

Here is a pair of extraordinary quality. More will, inevitably, follow.

 

2002 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger lies in the heart of the Côte de Blancs from where come the greatest Chardonnays of Champagne. Situated 20 km south of Epernay, this Grand Cru village sits surrounded by vines that have their feet buried deep in soils of clay and it is this soil that gives the wines their class and elegance.

 

It is in these vineyards that the mighty Salon was created in 1911, followed shortly thereafter by Krug with their equally mighty Clos du Mesnil. And one can certainly see terroir-ist links to those wines in this ’02, although this wine is rather more forward and will not take nearly so long...

 

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2002

Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil, Champagne, France

Notes:

N.B. This was initially tasted at 21 degrees C. There after it went into the fridge. It then drank better and better as it warmed, peaking at about 15 degrees.

 

Pale lemon with a vigorous mousse rising energetically.

 

Fresh, exciting nose of lemon, white hedgerow flowers and the crust from a white farmhouse loaf. Hint of grapefruit.

 

Real creaminess to the mousse in the mouth. There’s a fine linear profile to the elegant and concentrated lemon and green apple fruit. This is clean as a shiny whistle, very long in the mouth; very delicious and quite beautiful. When cold, it becomes rather firmer and the long finish is nuanced by that fine chalkiness. This is perfect for sipping on its own, or with plain fish dishes.

2011-2018 12x75cl £264.00


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2002 Grande Année Rosé, Bollinger

From the fact that they vinify their wines in wood to Madame Lily Bollinger’s celebrated quote ref the moments when she preferred to take a glass of champagne (for those not “in the loop” on this one, here’s the quote: “I drink it when I am happy and when I am sad. Sometimes I drink it when I am alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry, and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I am thirsty."), Bollinger is in every way at the forefront of the region where it produces its wine.

 

Sadly, the English taste is to drink champagne on its own; I say sadly, as Bollinger is the archetypal champagne to enjoy with food, being very dry and with that oxidative character.

 

Occasionally one tastes a wine and thinks to oneself, “I would happily drink a glass of this every day for the rest of my time on earth. And sometimes I’d like more than one glass.” Such was the case with the 2002 Grande Année Rosé.

 

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2002

Grande Année Rosée, Bollinger, Champagne, France

Notes:

N.B. Tasted initially at 22 degrees C.

 

 A pale salmon-orange with a tiny bead rising steadily.

 

Great richness and density of Pinot aromas, including redcurrant, peach and nut. Aspects of toast. Lovely ripeness. A note like rhubarb crumble.

 

n the mouth, the mousse is so fine as to be creamy and nigh on invisible: just very, very classy. Lovely crisp red fruits underpinned by fabulous fine, chalky minerality. Length is substantial. There’s a superb classiness to the pretty red fruits and the medium acidity is cached nicely within it. A great wine...and how often can one say that about a rosé?!

2010-2018 6x75cl £396.00


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