The Peaks of South America

The history of wine production in South America is a long one, finding its origins in the mid-sixteenth century and the arrival of Cortes, who brought Vitis vinifera (the wine vine) - either in the form of cuttings or, more likely, as seeds in dried fruit - along with religious beliefs promoted through the perforation with pointy bits of metal those reluctant to covert.

It seems reasonably likely that those insistent prosthelytisers originally planted vines for use in their religious ceremonies. I suspect that it was some years before the local population thought of thanking them.

Vines in both Chile and Argentina are planted on the slopes of the Andes, altitude tempering the torridness of summer and providing extravagant daytime/night-time temperature variation, prolonging the growing season, lengthening the ripening period, bringing finesse, intensity and aroma to the end wine.

Additionally, Chile benefits in its isolation from never having suffered the devastation of Phylloxera, that vine louse that destroyed - at various points in history - much of the world's vineyard. This means that the vineyards of Chile are ungrafted. (N.B. The vine louse comes from North America, where the native, non-wine-producing vines are resistant to it. European vines have no such resistance and plant death came quickly once the invader attacked at root level. The solution was eventually discovered: graft Vitis vinifera onto the roots of the North American Vitis labrusca or similar, thus virtually all of the world's vineyards are now planted with grafted vines.)

When I first joined the wine trade, Chile was the Next Big Thing. Then it appeared somehow to lose its way. What it lacked was both figure-head wines at the top end and the ability to produce clean, expressive and consistent wines of good value.

A visit to the Wines of Chile tasting earlier in the year was both depressing and enlightening. Very many wines are still badly made: over-sulphured, over-oaked, under-wined. And yet there are some stunningly pure varietal wines at the lower end and at the top of the tree, whooee. Well, those wines at the top of the tree appear below.

Argentina is blessed with a great many exceptionally fine wine producers and many would argue that none is finer than that which appears in this offer.

Interestingly, Argentina and Chile (and, indeed, Uruguay) have adopted French varieties and attempted to make them their own. Argentina is rightly celebrated for the quality of its Malbec; from the grape the country produces world class wines. Less so Chile with Carmenère. Chile is perhaps more famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon and blends thereof, than it is varietal Carmenère. Uruguay has Tannat, a brooding, tannic grape producing brooding, tannic wines that are perfect with the reddest of red meat.

Achaval Ferrer

The Achaval Ferrer winery with the mighty Andes behind

Achaval Ferrer was founded in 1998 by a group of friends who had made their money in trade and industry. Their simple mission: to produce wines of the utmost quality; wines that were pure reflections of the soil of the vineyards from which they come.

This is very much an Argentine-Italian project, as winemaker Roberto Cipresso has his home on as estate in Montalcino in Tuscany, finding time at the opposite end of the year to make the wine at Achaval Ferrer.

“Does Argentina have a fine wine dimension? That’s a good question. I think I’d answer ‘yes’, and largely because of the amazing wines of Achaval Ferrer…” Jamie Goode on his website www.wineanorak.com

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2006	Quimera, Achaval-Ferrer, Mendoza, Argentina Notes: N.B. This is 38% Malbec, 24% Merlot, 24% Cab Sauv and 14% Cab Franc; old vines from high vineyards Real freshness about the nose. Oak spice frames complex aromas of cherry-berry fruit, very black, with hints of milk chocolate and dried herbs The palate is instantly a touch creamy, then quickly becomes focussed nad really rather serious. I found flavours of cassis and black cherry underpinned with sandy minerals. Really impressive full finish here, bristling with intensity and intent. Real crunch at the back. Ooof! 94/100 - Jay Miller on erobertparker.com	2011-2019	6x75cl	£108.00
2007	Finca Mirador, Achaval-Ferrer, Mendoza, Argentina Notes: N.B. This is from a 3.5 hectare vineyard planted at 800 metres above sea level There are floral notes here that nuance the red and black plum fruit. There's an intriguiing orchard smell of the ripest red apples. In the mouth, this is very cool, very fresh, very concentrated. It's full of firm, fine, upright tannnins right from the moment it goes in one's mouth. Sandy, integrated minerals present themselves. A very long wine, with high, almost citrus acidity. The shape of a rapier attack across the palate i.e. highly impressive. Wow!   "... superb display of toasty new oak, lilacs, spice box, black cherry, and black raspberry, on the palate it sports an elegant personality, savory flavors, underlying structure, and a lengthy, 45-second finish...94/100." Jay Miller on erobertparker.com	2014-2025	6x75cl	£300.00
2007	Finca Altamira, Achaval-Ferrer, Mendoza, Argentina Notes: N.B. The fruit comes from an 80 year old vineyard at 1,100 metres above sea level This is floral and a touch broader than the Mirador on the nose, the fruit is a little blacker, with the suspicion that some of it is dried. Notes of chocolate wood. In the mouth, this presents beautifully pure fruit that starts slightly creamy, then pulls itself into a most impressive shape. I located blueberries and plums. They're shot through with sandy minerals. Acidity is juicy fresh and utterly covered by the fruit concentration. Plum, hint of pepper and the evident (at least for the time being) wood. Lovely and very, very impressive.   "...remarkable complexity in its alluring bouquet, layers of ripe fruit, savory flavors, and great length. 94-97/100." Jay Miller on erobertparker.com	2011-2020	6x75cl	£300.00
2007	Finca Bella Vista, Achaval-Ferrer, Mendoza, Argentina Notes: N.B. The vines in this vineyard are 101 years old and are planted at 950 metres There's a sophisticated aroma of violets to the nose of the debut vintage of Bella Vista. The fruit aromas are creamy-fresh and of black cherry and damson A delectable fruit liqueur of a palate; very cool cream underpinned by sand-like minerals. Just so complete, fresh, super-long and utterly beguiling.   "...it offers up an alluring bouquet of smoke, scorched earth, incense, violets, black cherry, and blackberry...96/100." Jay Miller on erobertparker.com	2012-2022	6x75cl	£300.00
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Altaïr

Altaïr vineyards

Altaïr started out as a joint venture between Laurent Dassault, owner of Châteaux Dassault and La Fleur in St Emilion, and Chile’s second largest wine producer: Viãs San Pedro. Since 2007, however, ownership has been 100% Chilean.

The vineyards here are planted on the slopes of the Cachapoal Valley, itself a subregion of the Rapel Valley, located in central Chile. Yields in the vineyards are kept very low; all harvesting is done by hand. In other words, despite the fact that Laurent Dassault sold his stake in the venture in 2007, his dream of producing a Grand Cru wine in Chile is still alive and very much kicking!

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price In Bond
2004	Sideral, Altaïr, Cachapoal, Chile Notes: N.B. This is 75% Cab Sauv, the rest Merlot and Carmènere A subtle nose of red and black fruit. The blackcurrants are nuanced by spicy, cedary wood and I found a touch of milk chocolate, too. On entry, the '04 Sideral presents fruit of sweet currants. It's profile strnegthens in the mouth, swelling throughout. Milk chocolate appears again, along with fresh and partly dried fruits. This is long and lovely; drinkable now, but will age well.     92/100 - Jay Miller on erobertparker.com	2010-2014	6x75cl	£66.00
2004	Altaïr, Altaïr, Cachapoal, Chile Notes: N.B. This is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Carmenère, 6% Merlot, 4% Syrah and 2% Cabernet Franc A beautifully aromatic wine giving minty notes along with the Cabernet fruit, plus a good dose of spice. Crisp blackcurrant fruit aromas overlaid by scents of herbs. Blueberry smoke. The palate is a rich, dense and cool swathe of delicious fruit. This is immediately sophisticated and then one notices the ripe, rich tannins that are cached beneath the weight of fruit. And that fruit is a delightful mix of red- and blackcurrants. A very long wine, with fine minerals dotting the finish. Richly concentrated and classily structured. Fine stuff.   93/100 - Jay Miller on erobertparker.com	2011-2020	6x75cl	£168.00
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More mindless Chilean loveliness