Facets of the 2008 Chablis Vintage

Fossilised oysters in the Kimmeridgian limestone that gives Chablis its character

First, what exactly is Chablis? Well, it’s a French white wine made from the Chardonnay grape. So far, so simple. But if I hear some of you clicking away at the mention of the C word, think again, for these are the most northerly vineyards in which Chardonnay can be ripened and they produce something so far removed from what one would, in the normal course of things, think of as Chardonnay, we may as well be speaking of another variety altogether.

Not that much further north, under-ripe Chardonnay wine is turned into Champagne, but here in Chablis, on these limestone soils (full of fossilised oysters that filtered for food in an epoch during which this entire region was covered by water), the grape produces some of the most subtle and liveliest wines made anywhere.

Second, what is the proper character of Chablis? (i.e. what’s all the fuss about?!) The cliché is that drinking the wines of Chablis is like sipping from a mountain stream and then sucking the pebbles to be found on its bed. It’s a little florid, but I know what they mean!

These are crisp, fresh, complex wines and wines that express their terroir as well as anything in Burgundy. If you can imagine drinking a shard of lemon and green apple flavoured crystal from a sunlit chandelier, you’re somewhere near the mark.

And look! There I go being florid. It must be the wine!

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price
2008	Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet, Vincent Dampt, Burgundy, France Notes: For my money this is the best of Vincent's premier crus.   The colour is electrifying; a winking, lime-tinted gemstone.   Aromas are concentrated, with floral notes playing amongst the green apple and white currant fruit. There's a whiff of powdered rock.   The palate fairly crackles with energy. This has great richness of fruit, allied to rapier acidity that nails it to one's senses. This is compact, focussed and very, very impressive.     "...racy and beautifully detailed flavors that culminate in a tangy, sappy and intense finish..." Allen Meadows AKA The Burghound	2012-2016	12x75cl	£174.00
2008	Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet (MAG), Vincent Dampt, Burgundy, France Notes: For my money this is the best of Vincent's premier crus.   The colour is electrifying; a winking, lime-tinted gemstone.   Aromas are concentrated, with floral notes playing amongst the green apple and white currant fruit. There's a whiff of powdered rock.   The palate fairly crackles with energy. This has great richness of fruit, allied to rapier acidity that nails it to one's senses. This is compact, focussed and very, very impressive.   "...racy and beautifully detailed flavors that culminate in a tangy, sappy and intense finish..." Allen Meadows AKA The Burghound	2012-2018	6x150cl	£183.00
2008	Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, William Fèvre, Burgundy, France Notes: This is right at the top of the Fèvre Premier Cru pile, as is so often the case.   There's a note of spice to the nose attributable to patial wood ageing, but then rich, well defined aromas of crisp citrus fruit and pears.   The palate crackles with energy. There's great density to the crisp fruit and the length takes one down the road and 'round the corner. This is one backward wine and it's a powerful one too. The Burghound says, "This delivers Grand Cru quality" and I agree!	2013-2019	12x75cl	£234.00
2008	Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, William Fèvre, Burgundy, France Notes: What amazes here is the focus, the minerality and the elegance, both on nose and palate. How a wine can be so concentrated, whilst retaining such supreme elegance and freshness is extraordinary. This is exceptional wine of the sort that cannot be produced anywhere but Chablis. Great wine...just not much of it.   "Here too the elegance of the nose is simply stunning with a layered and perfumed aromatic profile that oozes Chablis character and in particular, a fine minerality that continues onto the impressively concentrated and palate staining flavors that possess striking precision on the explosively long finish. This is a great Les Clos that will make old bones." Allen Meadows AKA The Burghound	2015-2022	12x75cl	£468.00
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