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The 2008 Vintage in the Côte de Beaune

 

 

 

 

The sun shining on the roofs of Aloxe

 

 

 

 

The vineyards of the Côte de Beaune start north of the town of Beaune itself. The Hill of Corton hoves into view as one drives south; at its foot, the large village of Aloxe; behind it, Pernand wedged into its valley, and beyond it, Savigny. These are the villages on the “right” side of the road i.e. up-slope. The conjoined twin villages together known as Ladoix-Serrigny touch the road as one approaches Aloxe. There are good restaurants here, but the villages limited brand weight mean that wines are often labelled Côte de Beaune Villages.

 

Oddly, the Grand Cru wines of Corton are split between Ladoix, Aloxe and Pernand, making them a confused bunch indeed (as one can tell when tasting through a range of them; few deserve their lofty status).

 

Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès = near) is set back from the road north of Ladoix and it boasts a fine old château, owned by the Germain family whose superb wines can be found on this offering.

 

 

 

 

The road to Volnay

 

 

 

 

 

Beaune’s a fascinating old town, quite small enough to explore on Shanks’s pony and with sufficient fine dining – now including two Japanese restaurants – to keep one in calories for months. It has a dinky inner ring road, so dinky that, should one miss one’s turning it will not take more than 5 minutes to arrive back in the same spot.

 

Head south from Beaune and, as in the Côtes de Nuits, familiar village names come thick and fast. Pommard and Volnay – geographically close; less so in the character of their wine – complete the Pinot Noir vineyard, the Chardonnay vines of Meursault starting at Volnay’s southern limits. In some places the Chardonnay infringes Volnay’s Pinot Noir monopoly (the 1er Cru vineyard of Les Santenots being the obvious example of this, the red wine hailing there from being labelled Volnay Santenots, the white Meursault Santenots).

 

Meursault is a big town and the vineyards offer a big range of terroir. At the southern edge start the vines of Puligny, then those of Chassagne, with St Aubin behind.

 

 

 

 

A Pinot breakfast for the starlings

 

 

 

 

 

And then, finally, we’re back into red wine territory with the woefully underappreciated appellations of Santenay and Maranges, wines sourced from both of which appear on our Burgundy Openers offering.

 

And that’s all there is to the Côte de Beaune!

 

To read  more about each producer, go to the main 2008 Burgundy  document and click on the links.

 

The White Wines

 

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2008

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Remi Rollin, Burgundy, France

Notes:

This is ray-like in its focus. There are some rich, nutty aromas from the wood, aromas that frame steely fruit of lemon and pear. This is clear-voiced and singing

 

There's nutty wood again up front on the palate, leading to a fine thrust of cutting minerals. This is subtly persistent and offers Hitchcockian levels of tension. It grows and spreads slightly in the mouth. Fabulous finish. All life is here.

2015-2021 6x75cl £276.00

2008

Meursault, Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Lovely bright nose and a rich one, framed by credible nutty wood. Tte pure fruit aromas are citrus and include scents of orange and lemon

A rich, honeyed, nutty wine i.e. archetypal Meursault! Everything is brought into focus by the minerals and freshness that accompany the fruit through to the very long finish. The real deal.

 

"The estate of Michel Buisson – whose son-in-law Patrick Essa now takes the lead – crafts white Burgundies for the Riesling or Chenin-lover, offering clarity, refreshment, and minerality yet not stinting on richness or structure, and wines whose track record in the cellar is among the best of any Chardonnay-based wines in the world." Robert Parker

2012-2015 12x75cl £219.00

2008

Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères, Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Selected on the basis that it was really backward when I tasted it; closed and begging for cellaring.

The nose is not that expressive in its extreme youth, but does hint at lemon citrus aromas.

 

It's the palate that impresses as it simply washes over the senses with its extraordinarily dense, concentrated, rich fruit. Dusty minerals wind through that citrus intensity and the minerals are shot through with nutty wood. A suspicion of tangerine plays with one's palate and the great length powers on to a satisfyingly crunchy finish. Gosh, this is good. Profound Meursault of the utmost quality.

 

"The estate of Michel Buisson – whose son-in-law Patrick Essa now takes the lead – crafts white Burgundies for the Riesling or Chenin-lover, offering clarity, refreshment, and minerality yet not stinting on richness or structure, and wines whose track record in the cellar is among the best of any Chardonnay-based wines in the world." Robert Parker

 

2014-2019 12x75cl £372.00

2008

Puligny-Montrachet, Bachelet-Monnot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A profound and rich nose with hints of grapefruit to the sweet apple aromas

 

Wow, this is compact. Lemony; very crisp and full of proper, grainy, "square" Puligny minerals. Long. Fabulous shape here. Any doubts about what kind of wine is Puligny? Buy this for full enlightenment!

2011-2015 12x75cl £240.00

2008

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles, Morey-Coffinet, Burgundy, France

Notes:

There's delightful, pure melon fruit to be found here, plus floral notes. This is one rich and pure nose and it's nutty with it

 

The palate comes across as cool, concentrated and direct. The fruit is quite aloof, the minerals grainy, the whole thing leading through to juicy freshness at the back of the palate. There is some hint of the wood in the mouth. Spicy/peppery and dead straight, this. Mouthcoating and powerful Puligny.

2013-2018 12x75cl £393.00

2008

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. The vines here are over 50 years old

A very rich nose, with spicy notes to the fruit of pure lemon and lime

 

This is very, very mineral right from the front of the palate. It exhibits great concentration of citrus fruits, including tangerine and lemon. Dense stuff in the mouth, this. Long. Just fabulous finish here. Really serious white wine

2014-2019 12x75cl £426.00

2008

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, Bachelet-Monnot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

This is one of the most closed wines I tasted during my trip. A really crisp and lemony nose. It offers up aromas that make one's mouth water! Chalky minerals and white flowers add nuance to the aromas

 

This is a real shard of a palate; a thrust like the stab of stainless blade. Spicy, peppery minerals dot the citrus and pear fruit. This is chiselled, with a laser-like focus. Very long and super-lively. One to sit on, then be rewarded by!

2013-2018 12x75cl £444.00

2008

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France

Notes:

M Boudot's Champ Canet vines are over 60 years of age

 

A crisp nose and a lovely one, of rich yellow fruits. Touch of nut and the fruit skins: furry pears, perhaps. This is smoky and licorous

 

Again, this has a profound minerality right from the front of the palate. The minerals are solid and fine grained. The fruit is about pears and is richly concentrated. There's a spice that kicks in right at the back of the palate, almost in the throat. Powerful follow-through. Very long wine. Mind blowing stuff.

2014-2020 12x75cl £534.00

2008

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Fairendes, Morey-Coffinet, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. Only 3-4 barrels of this cuvée are made each vintage, from a vineyard that is 75+ years old

 

A lovely summery nose here of citrus fruit: lime and orange. White currants and talcum powder and dried flowers

 

This is rich and really well structured in the mouth right from the off. It is underpinned by spicy - almost peppery - grainy minerals. There's a tangerine-like acidity and flavours of various citrus fruits. Powerful stuff; very dense and long and fabulous.

2013-2018 12x75cl £354.00


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The Red Wines

 

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2008

Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons, Château de Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, France

Notes:

If a Pinot nose could be called masculine, this is it! Meaty aromas accompany the fruit of black berries. Mint and a charred note add intrigue.

 

This is very mineral wine, the earthiness wound through fruit of cassis. This is highly concentrated and attacks the palate in a compact, linear streak. Very, very long; fresh and peppery spicy. Fabulous finish.

2015-2022 12x75cl £285.00

2008

Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras, Château de Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Great richness about the nose here. This is choc-full of red, ripe fruit, along with an aroma I can only call red liquorice

 

The palate is rich, fluid, silken and crammed with red cherry and cranberry flavours. This is very, very mineral, with high grip. Powdered rocks litter the finish. A very fresh wine; a very beautiful Cras

2015-2023 12x75cl £318.00

2008

Pommard, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

The nose displays rich, red cherry fruit aromas. Lovely sweetness to be found here

 

Rich and very tackily tannic this Pommard. It's a compact wine at the moment and has lovely grip, plus that purity of red and black fruits, crisp and fresh. True Pommard from this master wine maker

 

"This is more expressive on the nose than the Volnay Village. Red rather than black fruit: raspberry leaf, a touch of bergamot and undergrowth/damp earth. The palate has firm, chunky tannin with crisp blackberry and raspberry leaf and although it is slightly coarse towards the finish, it burgeons with rustic charm." Neal Martin on erobertparker.com

2014-2019 12x75cl £210.00

2008

Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Arvelets, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

The fruits aromas here are much wilder, of sloe and damson, bramble and red plum

 

In the mouth, this is instantly cool and composed; structured and fine. It picks up structure and intensity through the palate to a very long finish. This is perhaps the most backward of the wines in Daniel's cellar this vintage. Super stuff

2014-2021 12x75cl £234.00

2008

Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Real liqueur of a nose this. Tangy again and spicy with it, the fruit more in the cranberry and strawberry spectrum

 

This offers one rich and beautiful palate. It's the shape that piques one's interest: very straight; very elegant. Rich, integrated tannins lend their support. Red fruited, concentrated and rather stunning

2014-2020 12x75cl £297.00

2008

Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

The nose is a scintillating liqueur of red and black cherries. There's something exotic underlying: hint of clove, perhaps

 

Into the mouth, this offers a cool suppleness and fruit of the purest sort. Elegant and integrated. At its core, upright tannins are perfectly married to the delicious fruit. Chalky, the minerals. Very, very cool and subtle. Very straight. A beauty

 

"One of the Domaine’s best wines of the vintage, this Pezerolles has a brilliant sense of clarity on the nose, red cherry fruit, briary, a slight leafiness...but so fresh and clean. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, just a hint of spice on the entry with a silky texture towards the persistent finish. Lovely Pommard!" Neal Martin on erobertparker.com

2015-2022 12x75cl £384.00

2008

Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

This has a rich nose and a smoky one and there's a hint of rose petals to the pure red and black cherry fruit

One very, very cool wine here and one with very fine tannins. A really straight palate, controlled, direct and pure. The rich tannins are utterly integrated. Very, very long and very elegant. Beguiling wine.

 

"This has a lovely ripe red-cherry nose with touches of redcurrant, soy, antique bureau and raspberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, great purity and poise with lovely focus on the finish with black cherries, blueberry and a hint of cassis. Beautiful." Neal Martin on erobertparker.com

2017-2024 12x75cl £384.00

2008

Volnay, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. 35% of this cuvée is from 1er Cru vineyards

 

Aromas here are tangy fresh and of red cherry fruit so typical of this vintage. The fruit is interwoven by wisps of smoke

 

A lovely richness of fruit in the mouth. This is pure and clean and butressed by rich, fine tannin. Tangy black and red fruit offer abundant pleasure. This is structured, intense and lovely

2012-2018 12x75cl £171.00

2008

Volnay, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Like all these Voillot wines, this is a beautiful blue-ruby colour

 

Floral, the nose here, a nose that includes fruit aromas of tangy bramble, sloe and plum

 

Across the tongue, it's very cool, beautifully rich, red and black fruit, a  touch peppery. There are some wild plum flavours, with rich, tacky, square tannins through to a long, straight finish. A juicy wine and a long and grippy one too. And one that is, above all, Volnay!

2012-2018 12x75cl £192.00

2008

Volnay Vendanges Sélectionées, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France

Notes:

This is a stunning colour in the glass, as are all these Lafarge wines

 

A pure nose, a touch floral, with rich black cherry, spicy fruit. There's a real mélange of delightful red and black fruits here, including cassis. A fresh nose, above all

 

Rich, supple fruit on entry is joined soon by integrated, tacky, chewy tannins. There's a big thrust of minerals to this, right through that beautiful fruit of red and black cherries. A very long wine. Blimey!

2014-2020 12x75cl £279.00

2008

Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A wealth of sweetly ripe fruit aromas here, majoring on rich, tangy sloe and damson

 

This is very rich in the mouth; integrated, ripe and lovely. The fruit flavours are all about sloes and plums. This is a very long and serious wine with a fresh and powerful finish. Lovely stuff

2014-2021 12x75cl £201.00

2008

Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Lots going on in this wine's aromatics. I identified wild red fruits, a lick of spice and then a hauntingly pure red cherry whiff

 

At this stage, this is pretty burly, with lots of rich, fine tannins adhered to fruit that lacks any development. Overall, it is long and grippy, with admirable purity of fruit and the most wonderful aftertaste. A keeper and one that will reward that keeping in spades.

 

"The Caillerets is more reticent on the nose than the Champans with blackberry, bayleaf and blood orange developing with time. Very fine definition but it would benefit from more vigour. The palate shows good weight and concentration, nicely structured and “correct” with fresh acidity and a grippy black cherry laced finish. Fine." Neal Matin on erobertparker.com

2016-2025 12x75cl £330.00

2008

Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Piercing aromas of red and black, floral, curranty fruit. Very beautiful; operatic even

 

This is very rich and structured from the front. Bags of mineral intensity here. This is very, very fresh and classy; very, very long and absolutely lovely

2017-2025 6x75cl £282.00


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Links to other 2008 Burgundy Offers

» Chablis Offer

» Côte de Nuits Offer

» Côte de Beaune Offer