2009 Burgundy – Producers and Their Wines
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The producers are listed in a geographical order,
roughly North to South. To go straight to a
particular producer, click on the relevant link
below:
» Domaine Denis
Mortet
» Domaine
Drouhin-Laroze
» Domaine
Rossignol-Trapet
» Domaine Jean
Grivot
» Domaine
François Lamarche
» Domaine Jean
Chauvenet
» Domaine
Tollot-Beaut
» Domaine Remi
Rollin
» Domaine
Camus-Bruchon
» Domaine Joseph
Voillot
» Domaine Michel
Lafarge
» Domaine
François & Antoine Jobard
» Domaine
Buisson-Charles
» Domaine Etienne
Sauzet
» Domaine Paul
Pillot
» Domaine
Morey-Coffinet
» Domaine
Bachelet-Monnot
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Domaine Denis Mortet
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Arnaud Mortet among the vines
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Arnaud was rather thrust into the limelight in 1996
following the untimely death of his father, Denis,
who himself had taken over the reins from his own
father in 1991. At that time the family domaine was
split between Denis and his brother Thierry. Both
brothers made good wine, yet Arnaud took over a
burgundian domaine at the pinnacle of its reputation,
a fact ensured by the labours of his father who
produced a string of extraordinary vintages during
his tenure.
Arnaud has been experimenting with organic
viticulture and has introduced even more stringent
methods for ensuring the quality of the fruit
arriving at the winery.
The Mortet wines are now among the finest in
Burgundy.
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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
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Philippe Drouhin, protective of some rather fine
wine
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The origins of this estate lie in 1850, when a
Jean-Baptiste Laroze bought vineyards in Gevrey. His
granddaughter Suzanne married Alexandre Drouhin in
1919, so the Drouhin-Laroze domaine was born.
The estate – now presided over by Philippe and
Christine Drouhin – runs to 11.5 hectares.
Techniques for maximising the quality of each harvest
include inter-row tilling (forcing the vine roots
deeper into the soil and subsoil to seek water),
green harvesting (to reduce the crop) and canopy
management (i.e. leaf cutting: maximising health and
ripeness of the fruit).
One tastes here in cellars built in 1815. Production
amounts to 50,000 bottles, 46% of which is Grand
Cru, 14% Premier Cru and 40% Village
wine.
The style is one of great purity, Philippe’s
goal being to emphasise aroma and accurately present
the terroir of each vineyard.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France |
2017-2025 |
6x75cl |
£310.00 |
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| 2009 |
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France |
2017-2028 |
6x75cl |
£390.00 |
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| 2009 |
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France |
2017-2030 |
6x75cl |
£450.00 |
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Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
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Relaxed and joyful, just like his 2009 burgundies:
Nicolas Rossignol
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Rossignol-Trapet is another domaine that has become
increasingly obsessed with natural viticultural
practices, banning weed-killers in 1996 and
subsequently being certified organic. Brothers
Nicolas and David are now going yet further, with a
view to turning the entire domaine over to biodynamic
culture.
There are 14.27 hectares under vine here. The style
is one of rich, joyous and succulent fruit,
detracting nothing from integrity to each
vineyard’s terroir.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy, France |
2013-2019 |
12x75cl |
£246.00 |
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| 2009 |
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur, Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£420.00 |
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| 2009 |
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy, France |
2016-2025 |
6x75cl |
£321.00 |
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| 2009 |
Chambertin Grand Cru., Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy, France |
2017-2028 |
6x75cl |
£450.00 |
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Domaine Jean Grivot
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Etienne Grivot in his cellar
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The diverse origins of this domaine – with
descendents converging from the Italian and French
Alps – comes into vinous focus in the
19th century when wine growing and making
became the foremost activity of Gaston Grivot.
It was Jean Grivot, Etienne’s father, that
really put the domaine on the quality map and since
1987 - when Etienne took over full responsibility for
the wine - quality has been pushed to greater and
greater heights.
Etienne is one of the most insightful wine makers in
the Côte. His mind is constantly enquiring, his
life an unending series of experiments and trials. To
meet with Etienne for a wine tasting is to encounter
someone supremely confident with their own place in
the world, someone extremely knowledgeable, yet
someone caught in a restless search for perfection.
As one might expect, the wines are simply brilliant.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau, Jean Grivot, Burgundy, France |
2015-2025 |
12x75cl |
£345.00 |
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| 2009 |
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges, Jean Grivot, Burgundy, France |
2015-2021 |
6x75cl |
£282.00 |
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| 2009 |
Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières, Jean Grivot, Burgundy, France |
2015-2022 |
6x75cl |
£321.00 |
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| 2009 |
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Jean Grivot, Burgundy, France |
2018-2027 |
6x75cl |
£405.00 |
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Domaine François Lamarche
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Vosne-Romanée – home of the domaines
Grivot and Lamarche – in the autumn sun
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François retired from active duty here in
2006, the responsibility for wine making and
viticulture going respectively to Nicole, his
daughter, and Nathalie, his niece.
The pride of the domaine is the Grand Cru monopole
vineyard La Grande Rue, which lies next to La
Tâche and which was bequeathed to one Henri
Lamarche as a wedding present in 1933.
There’s 11.24 hectares under vine here. The
house style is changing incrementally, but the
terroirs are showcased with great subtlety and
elegance. These are not intense fruit bombs. Rather,
they are very beautiful, silken-textured things of
great loveliness.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Vosne-Romanée, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France |
2013-2019 |
12x75cl |
£276.00 |
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| 2009 |
Echézeaux Grand Cru, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France |
2016-2025 |
6x75cl |
£309.00 |
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| 2009 |
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France |
2017-2027 |
6x75cl |
£309.00 |
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| 2009 |
La Grande Rue Grand Cru, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France |
2018-2027 |
6x75cl |
£720.00 |
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Domaine Jean Chauvenet
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Red stems in the afternoon light
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The lineage of this domaine can be traced back to the
late 17th century. It was Jean Chauvenet,
current owner, who increased the domaine’s
holdings, adding a number of 1er Cru vineyards. Jean
also increased the amount of wine that was bottled
under the Chauvenet label, rather than sold off to
local negoçiants.
Jean’s son-in-law, Christophe Drag, now makes
the wine and a visit is a chance to evaluate the
various terroirs of Nuits (there are now seven 1er
Crus made at this estate) and find out a great deal
about the vintage from one of the most sympa
individuals in Burgundy.
Some nine hectares of NSG vineyards are exploited
here. The style is quite modern. From a bottle of
Chauvenet Nuits one expects a liquid of full colour,
rich, concentrated fruit and a lesson in Nuits
terroir. One also expects that they will be quite
happy doing their own thing in a cellar for a long
period of time.
A new 1er Cru here this vintage. Poulettes lies
above Les Perrières in the south of the
commune. The fruit was previously included in the
village cuvée. I liked it enough to include it
in the offer. I thought it classic NSG.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Poulettes, Jean Chauvenet, Burgundy, France |
2016-2025 |
12x75cl |
£333.00 |
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| 2009 |
Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Le Rue de Chaux, Jean Chauvenet, Burgundy, France |
2017-2026 |
12x75cl |
£333.00 |
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Domaine Tollot-Beaut
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I last visited this domaine in 1995 with an
Australian friend, at which time we were treated to a
lordly tasting courtesy of Jack Tollot. His niece
Nathalie hosted us this time 'round and it was
something of a marathon tasting, as a great many
wines emanate from these cellars.
Tollot-Beaut were one of the first producers in
Burgundy to bottle their own wine, doing so - for at
least some part of their production - as early as
1921.
This is quite a large landowner, with 23 hectares of
vineyards, all managed by three cousins: the sons and
daughter of the three brothers Tollot: Jack, Alain
and François.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Chorey-lès-Beaune Pièce du Chapître., Tollot-Beaut, Burgundy, France |
2013-2020 |
6x75cl |
£84.00 |
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| 2009 |
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Tollot-Beaut, Burgundy, France |
2015-2022 |
6x75cl |
£162.00 |
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| 2009 |
Corton Bressandes Grand Cru., Tollot-Beaut, Burgundy, France |
2015-2023 |
6x75cl |
£252.00 |
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Domaine Remi Rollin
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On the way to Pernand, the evening’s shadow
hits the southern slopes of the Hill of Corton
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Remi is the current owner and wine maker at this
domaine situated on the valley floor in the sometimes
precipitous village of Pernand.
Remi's grandfather founded the estate in 1930, but
it wasn't until 1963 and the tenure of Remi's father
Maurice that the domaine started bottling its own
wines.
The domaine now extends to 11.5 hectares and unlike
some producers whose vineyards are spread all over
the Côte, all the Rollin vines are situated in
communes within a couple of miles of their front
door.
Generally speaking, I find the wines crisp,
clear-voiced, expressive, mineral and precise;
incisive i.e. the sort of wines that one wants on
one's table with some good food!
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc., Remi Rollin, Burgundy, France |
2012-2015 |
12x75cl |
£138.00 |
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| 2009 |
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile de Vergelesses., Remi Rollin, Burgundy, France |
2015-2022 |
12x75cl |
£210.00 |
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| 2009 |
Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards, Remi Rollin, Burgundy, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£156.00 |
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| 2009 |
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru., Remi Rollin, Burgundy, France |
2015-2021 |
6x75cl |
£276.00 |
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Domaine Camus-Bruchon
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Savigny’s vineyards slope down to the
terroir of the departed
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Lucien Camus took the reins from his father in 1971
and has since presided over 9.2 hectares of
vineyards, many of which are planted with extremely
old vines (the Aux Grands Liards Savigny comes from a
vineyard planted in 1913 and 1922).
Lucien's son Guillaume has now joined him and
together they produce among the finest wines of
Savigny. A visit here is always a treat. The wines
are plush and delicious, often having a beautiful
blue tint in their youth.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards, Camus-Bruchon, Burgundy, France |
2013-2020 |
12x75cl |
£180.00 |
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| 2009 |
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru les Gravains, Camus-Bruchon, Burgundy, France |
2015-2022 |
12x75cl |
£198.00 |
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Domaine Joseph Voillot
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Charlot, a drunken tractor and the church of
Volnay
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Ten hectares of vines are exploited by this
five-generations-old domaine. Joseph Voillot is now
retired and his extremely affable son-in-law
Jean-Pierre Charlot is running the domaine and making
the wine.
The first burgundy travesty is that we do not sell
more of it; the second is that we do not sell pallets
of Voillot wine. They are quite brilliant. Those who
do buy them will come to my door looking to shake me
by the hand once their stocks are mature. They really
are that good.
“If it sets you salivating to imagine the
brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the
medium of Pinot Noir…then do not miss this
address!” Robert Parker
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Pommard Vieilles Vignes, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France |
2015-2021 |
12x75cl |
£234.00 |
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| 2009 |
Volnay 1er Cru les Champans., Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France |
2015-2022 |
12x75cl |
£372.00 |
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| 2009 |
Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles., Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France |
2017-2024 |
12x75cl |
£438.00 |
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| 2009 |
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens., Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France |
2017-2025 |
12x75cl |
£462.00 |
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Domaine Michel Lafarge
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It pays not to stand still for too long in some
cellars in Burgundy. There’s a real risk of
sudden growth
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"Michel and Frédéric Lafarge produce
some of Burgundy's most precise and penetrating
wines." So starts the entry for this domaine in the
latest edition of The Great Domaines of Burgundy, a
most worthy tome penned by Remington Norman.
Michel's father was domaine bottling as early as
1934 and both he and Michel added suitable plots to
the Lafarge holdings as and when they could. The
domaine currently stands at just over 11.5
hectares.
Very little new wood is employed here and altogether
one has the impression of traditionalism. The cellar
is a dingy, mouldy maze of a place, its condition
adding to one's extreme pleasure at finding such gems
in each barrel.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Passetoutgrains L'Exception, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France |
2013-2017 |
12x75cl |
£108.00 |
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| 2009 |
Volnay Vendange Sélectionée, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France |
2014-2020 |
12x75cl |
£306.00 |
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| 2009 |
Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France |
2016-2025 |
6x75cl |
£318.00 |
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| 2009 |
Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France |
2016-2030 |
12x75cl |
£681.00 |
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Domaine François & Antoine Jobard
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Antoine Jobard, a spittoon and a host of new
Meursault
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4.8 hectares. That’s it. No wonder I’ve
had to form an orderly queue to get an allocation of
this stuff. But, boy, is it worth the wait. This is
one of the preeminent houses in Meursault.
This is a traditional estate with modern ideas.
Weedkiller is avoided in the vineyards; fining and
filtration of the finished wine is eschewed. Yet new
oak is kept to a minimum and lees stirring –
bâtonnage, that practice that adds fat
to the wine – is generally avoided.
It wasn’t so long ago that this domaine
produced wines that were undrinkable for the first 15
years of their lives, so taut and tight were they.
Antoine, who is steadily taking over the running of
the domaine, has changed the style somewhat. The
wines are now more approachable in their youth. But
these are still among the longest living wines of the
appellation (along with those of the domaine below).
They are also some of the most scintillating.
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Domaine Buisson-Charles
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Cottage cheese clouds over the village and
vineyards of Meursault
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I was shocked when I first visited this domaine. How
was it that I had never heard of a domaine of this
quality, a domaine producing some of the most
profound, age-worthy and intense white wines of
Burgundy? The reason is that they’re small,
traditional and don’t make a big hoo-ha about
what they do.
Patrick Essa, Michel Buisson’s son-in-law, is
now making the wines, yet the focus has remained the
same, the quality of the wines unwavering.
It sounds like hyperbole, but the 2009 wines at this
estate reminded me of the (sadly few) times I have
consumed The Montrachet from the Domaine de la
Romanée-Conti. They are that intense and
profound.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Meursault Vieilles Vignes., Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France |
2013-2018 |
12x75cl |
£240.00 |
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| 2009 |
Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères., Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France |
2015-2021 |
12x75cl |
£396.00 |
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| 2009 |
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes., Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France |
2015-2021 |
12x75cl |
£396.00 |
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Domaine Etienne Sauzet
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The markings on one of Gérard
Boudot’s stainless steel fermentation
vessels
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Without question, one of the finest producers in
Puligny, the Domaine Etienne Sauzet has not, however,
been without its problems. Wine maker here is the
ultra-talented Gérard Boudot, husband of the
granddaughter of the eponymous Mr Sauzet. Mrs Boudot
has two brothers, both of whom are celebrated wine
makers in their own right (Jean-Marc Boillot and
Henri Boillot) and when their mother decided, for tax
reasons, to divide the domaine’s vineyards
equally between them, she hadn’t anticipated
that each brother would want to extract his share and
commercialise it under separate label. Which is
exactly what happened.
What remains is an estate of just over 9 hectares of
prime Puligny land. And from it Gérard
fashions wines of immense class and intensity. To
visit is to return to school. M. Boudot is a
fascinating mine of information. Tasting with him is
a privilege.
N.B. we still have modest stocks of the
domaine’s 2008 wines. Buy a case from each
vintage and receive a 10% discount.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Bourgogne Blanc La Tufera, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France |
2012-2015 |
12x75cl |
£150.00 |
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| 2009 |
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France |
2013-2018 |
6x75cl |
£225.00 |
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| 2009 |
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Champ Gain, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France |
2014-2018 |
6x75cl |
£240.00 |
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| 2009 |
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France |
2014-2018 |
6x75cl |
£246.00 |
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| 2009 |
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet, Etienne Sauzet, Burgundy, France |
2014-2019 |
6x75cl |
£282.00 |
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Domaine Paul Pillot
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The Caillerets vineyard in Chassagne, wherein grow
some ancient plants
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This 13 hectare domaine had its inception around
1900, when Paul’s grandfather gave up cooperage
to concentrate on growing and making wine. It was
Paul, however, who has largely been responsible for
expanding the domaine to its current commercial
size.
One of the joys of having one’s own wine
business is that one can sell exactly the wines that
one thinks are of merit and it matters not from where
they come. Thus a visit to Burgundy is an opportunity
to taste at addresses to which one has never been
before. This year, one of those was Paul Pillot. And
I could have selected a larger number of wines from
his superb portfolio, but have picked two, a red and
a white, as they fit very nicely with the rest of the
offering. Next year, I might well request more.
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St Jean Rouge., Paul Pillot, Burgundy, France |
2013-2017 |
12x75cl |
£240.00 |
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| 2009 |
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets., Paul Pillot, Burgundy, France |
2014-2019 |
6x75cl |
£180.00 |
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Domaine Morey-Coffinet
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The vaulted cellars at Morey-Coffinet, the
accretion of centuries lurking in the darkness of the
corners
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9 hectares are worked here, 5 of Chardonnay, the rest
Pinot Noir.
A visit to Morey-Coffinet is a visit to one of the
highest points in the village of Chassagne, near the
vineyard of Clos St Jean, and some of the most
impressive cellars. One also gets to sit down for
one’s dégustation, which is rare
and welcome.
I have a favourite here, I must say and
unsurprisingly it is the wine you’ll find
below. This is one of the plum vineyards in Chassagne
and the vines of Morey-Coffinet therein are old ones.
This is not a wine of sophisticated elegance. More,
it is a serious, powerful mouthful of concentrated,
dense fruit. It leaves one with the impression that
one has recently had rocks in one’s mouth. And
it would go best with lobster, but lobster from the
wrong side of the tracks; a crustacean that’s
retired from work in security and is thinking about
getting into cage fighting.
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Domaine Bachelet-Monnot
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The slopes of the southern Côtes de
Beaune
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What we have here is more-or-less an overnight
sensation, although like most overnight sensations
there was a good amount of preparation before the
stellar launching on Domaine Bachelet-Monnot.
This domaine is all about two young brothers: Marc
and Alexandre. They hit the Burgundy high spot
shortly after the launch of their endeavours in 2005,
having been lent financial support by their father.
They were not complete neophytes, however. Their
uncle Bernard owned a well-known estate in Chassagne
and their father toiled there for many years.
Marc and Alexandre pretty much sum up what modern
Burgundy is all about. They are questing,
inquisitive, driven and confident wine makers and
growers. Supreme talent doesn’t seem to hurt
one jot!
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| Vintage |
Wine |
Drink dates |
Case size |
Price
IB |
Notes |
Order |
| 2009 |
Bourgogne Blanc., Bachelet-Monnot, Burgundy, France |
2012-2014 |
12x75cl |
£99.00 |
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| 2009 |
Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière., Bachelet-Monnot, Burgundy, France |
2013-2017 |
12x75cl |
£144.00 |
|
|
| 2009 |
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières., Bachelet-Monnot, Burgundy, France |
2014-2019 |
6x75cl |
£216.00 |
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