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The Glowing 2010 Burgundies of the Domaine Paul Pillot

 

 

Thierry Pillot standing in the Clos St Jean premier cru of Chassagne

 

 

 

 

 

The Producer

Jean-Baptiste Pillot was a cooper – tonnelier in French – who worked a few of his own vines. Born in 1858, by 1900 he had gave up the barrel making to concentrate on his wine making.

 

Paul, Jean-Baptiste’s grandson, was born in 1947 and, on taking over the domaine went about extending the vineyard holdings, buying up land in some of the best vineyards of Chassagne including the 1ers crus of Clos St Jean, les Grandes Ruchottes, les Caillerets and La Grande Montagne.

 

To this day, the domaine’s reputation is probably built on the white wines made from these luminary terroirs, yet the strength here is really the understanding of those soils and how to get the best of them in the vineyard.

 

Paul’s son Thierry has now taken up the reins and is pushing quality to new heights. Prices have yet to rise, however, so this would seem like a fine time to take advantage of the excellent value for money offered by the wines of this estate (please don’t let anyone at the domaine read these words!).

 

If anything, I find the assorted terroirs in Chassagne yet more fascinating than those of Puligny next door. The wines are less aristocratically archetectural, yet what they possess is a depth and complexity to their minerality. They come across as more feral, earthier, yet extremely exciting when done well.

 

I will mention once again the reds wines of the Côte de Beaune. Volnay and (especially) Pommard take the limelight here, yet look beyond these celebrated neighbours and one can find fabulous, delicious red wines that, lacking cachet, offer extraordinary value. The red below is just such a thing.

 

Keywords for the Pillot style: Gleaming, concentrated fruit; terroir in spades.

 

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price
IB
Notes Order
2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru Clos St Jean, Paul Pillot, Burgundy, France 2015-2021 12x75cl £234.00 view tasting notes  
2010 St Aubin 1er Cru Pitangerets, Paul Pillot, Burgundy, France 2013-2016 12x75cl £174.00 view tasting notes add to basket
2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Paul Pillot, Burgundy, France 2015-2021 12x75cl £360.00 view tasting notes add to basket

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