The Super-Fine Grands Crus of Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Philippe Drouhin and all his beautiful children

The Producer

This Gevrey-based domaine works 11.5 hectares of vineyards, of which a significant proportion – 46% - is Grand Cru.

As elsewhere, the 2010 harvest was much reduced at Drouhin-Laroze due to millerandage: minute berries that haven’t formed properly. They contain minimal amounts of highly concentrated juice and the thick skins are loaded with polyphenols. In 2010, some vineyards “suffered” 80% millerandage: something that has contributed to the intensity and concentration of the wines.

Keywords for the Drouhin-Laroze style: traditional; balanced; intense.

Burghound’s Notes

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

Here too there is a bit of wood spice framing the pure, complex and solidly ripe red currant, plum and soil-inflected aromas that precede rich, full-bodied and extract-rich flavors where the shaping tannins are forced to the background on the dusty and mouth coating finish. This is an exercise in harmony

and proportion with impeccable balance on the sneaky long finish.

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

A reserved and openly taciturn nose reluctantly reveals notes of a cool and exceptionally fresh mélange of plum and red berries that are freely cut with stone and warm earth nuances. The mouth feel is unusually refined and while there is excellent size, weight and concentration to the large-scaled flavors, the tannins are quite fine though dense and it’s clear that this markedly persistent and youthfully austere effort will require plenty of cellar time. Note that while it’s a minor distinction, this is not quite as austere as the Latricières. In a word, terrific.

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

A slightly riper blend of red and blue pinot fruit, violets and plenty of warm earth also suffuses the rich, full-bodied and very serious broad-shouldered flavors. This enjoys an abundance of tannin-buffering dry extract that confers a sappy texture to the driving, complex and hugely long finish. This is a first-rate

example of this uneven appellation and well worth considering.

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

A spicy, ripe, elegant and admirably pure nose offers up notes of anise, sandalwood and clove that add breadth to the floral, earth and stone-suffused aromas. There is the same superb breadth to the rich, intense and tension-filled full-bodied flavors that possess excellent power and drive on the seductively textured, muscular and classy finish. As good as the prior grands crus are, there is another dimension present here.

Vintage	Wine	Drink dates	Case size	Price IB	Notes	Order
2010	Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France	2019-2030	6x75cl	£306.00
2010	Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France	2022-2040	6x75cl	£360.00
2010	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France	2021-2037	6x75cl	£360.00
2010	Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy, France	2022-2040	6x75cl	£411.00
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