2009 Bordeaux Redux
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La Fleur de Bouard, the Lalande-de-Pomerol property
of the owner of Château Angélus
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“Obviously the classified growths have produced
extraordinary wines, but what is so striking about
2009 – and I haven’t really seen this
kind of excitement since 1982 – is the quality
of the cru bourgeois and the petits vins and generic
Bordeaux that are available.” Robert Parker
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*Click on the wines to be
taken to Parker’s recent assessment of the wine
in bottle, plus our availability*
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St Estèphe
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2009 Pagodes
de Cos £402 in bond a dozen
2009 La
Dame de Montrose £351 in bond a dozen
2009
Château Ormes de Pez £243 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Tronquoy-Lalande £252 in bond a
dozen
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Pauillac
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2009
Château Lacoste Borie £177 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste £573 in bond a
dozen
2009
Réserve de la Comtesse £324 in bond a
dozen
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St Julien
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2009
Château Talbot £420 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Lagrange £420 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Branaire-Ducru £498 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Langoa-Barton £462 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Léoville-Barton £750 in
bond a dozen
2009 La
Croix de Beaucaillou £297 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou £2,010 in bond
a dozen
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Margaux
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2009
Château Prieuré-Lichine £351 in
bond a dozen
2009
Château Kirwan £399 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château La Gurgue £138 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Giscours £441 in bond a
dozen
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Other Médoc
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2009
Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc
£210 in bond a dozen
2009
Château Beaumont, Haut-Médoc £96
in bond a dozen
2009
Château Potensac, Médoc £186 in
bond a dozen
2009
Château La Tour de By, Médoc £111
in bond a dozen
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Pessac-Léognan
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2009
Château Carbonnieux £228 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Pape-Clément £1,020 in
bond a dozen
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Dry Whites
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2009
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc £720 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc £660 in
bond a dozen
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Sweet Whites
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2009
Château de Myrat £231 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Lamothe-Guignard £177 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Guiraud £387 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château de Rayne-Vigneau £366 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Rieussec £594 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Climens £831 in bond a
dozen
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St Emilion
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2009
Château Bellefont-Belcier £270 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château La Tour du Pin £294 in bond a
dozen
2009
Carillon d’Angélus £480 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château La Dominique £333 in bond a
dozen
2009
Château Canon £1,020 in bond a
dozen
2009 Vieux
Château Mazerat £750 in bond a
dozen
2009 Le
Dôme £1,200 in bond a dozen
2009
Château Troplong Mondot £510 in bond per
6
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Pomerol
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2009
Château Nenin £432 in bond a
dozen
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Other Right Bank
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2009
Château d’Aiguilhe, Côtes de
Castillon £192 in bond a dozen
2009 La
Fleur de Bouard, Lalande-de-Pomerol £114 in
bond per 6
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St Estèphe
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2009 Pagodes de Cos –
1 case (6x75cl) available
The brilliant 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos actually has
more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than the grand
vin (69% versus 65%) in addition to mostly Merlot and
a small quantity of Petit Verdot. As powerful as the
Cos in terms of alcoholic clout (14.5%), the
full-bodied, round, generous Les Pagodes de Cos
exhibits lots of creme de cassis and floral notes
intermixed with hints of wood/barrique and spice.
Juicy, succulent and remarkably fresh and
well-delineated, it merits considerable attention
from consumers. It should drink well for 15-20 years.
Oddly enough, the second wine is superior to many
vintages of Cos in the 1960s 1970s and 1980s!
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2009 La Dame de Montrose
– 2 cases (12x75cl) available
Over the last twenty years, Montrose's second wine,
La Dame de Montrose has been an excellent buy. The
2009 La Dame de Montrose (almost all Merlot with a
tiny bit of Cabernet Sauvignon) is a seductive,
succulent effort revealing silky tannins, abundant
blueberry and blackberry fruit notes intermixed with
notions of damp earth, truffles and camphor, and an
appealing, luscious personality. Enjoy it over the
next 10-15 years.
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2009 Château
Ormes de Pez – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
A big, fruity, hedonistic style of wine, the 2009 Les
Ormes de Pez has a dense ruby/purple color, notes of
incense and barbecue smoke and oodles of black berry
and cassis fruit. It is medium to full-bodied, with
silky tannins and low acidity. This attractive, very
hedonistic style of wine should drink well for at
least a decade.
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2009
Château Tronquoy-Lalande - 3 cases (12x75cl)
available
The 2009 Tronquoy Lalande, a blend of 51% Merlot, 42%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot, is the finest
wine they have yet produced. It reveals an opulent
bouquet of mulberries, blueberries, raspberries and
spring flowers, full body, silky tannin, low acidity
and a lush, pure mouthfeel. This uncharacteristically
round, generous, sumptuous wine should be drinkable
early on.
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> Back to
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Pauillac
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2009 Château
Grand-Puy-Lacoste – 3 cases (12x75cl)
available
Performing better from bottle than it did from cask
(and comparable to their wines 2005, 2000, 1990 and
1982), this is a great classic from Xavier
Borie’s estate situated on the back roads west
of the town of Pauillac. Its dense ruby/purple color
is followed by hints of spring flowers, crushed
rocks, black currants, cedar and earth/underbrush.
Precise and elegant as well as backward and
foreboding, it should put on weight in the bottle and
evolve for two decades. Very concentrated as well as
velvety-textured, it is a beauty of finesse, balance,
purity and nobility. It will benefit from 5-7 more
years of bottle age.
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2009 Réserve
de la Comtesse
– 1 case (12x75cl)
available
Made from a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38%
Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, the second wine,
the 2009 Reserve de la Comtesse, exhibits notes of
forest floor, white chocolate, licorice, black
currants and vanillin-infused black cherries. It
possesses a sweet, round, generous style given its
high glycerin. Both the Reserve de la Comtesse and
Pichon Lalande have about 13% alcohol, slightly lower
than most Pauillacs achieved in 2009. Drink it over
the next 10 years.
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St Julien
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2009 Château
Lacoste Borie – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
*Mid crimson. Fragrant. Fresh and easy and almost
drinkable already! Good Pauillac savour. A little
alcohol and acid on the end.* Jancis Robinson
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2009 Château
Talbot – 1 case (12x75cl) available
Extremely sexy, soft, supple and opulent, with notes
of cedar, herbs, incense and black currant fruit,
this is a full-bodied, generously endowed but silky
Talbot to drink now and over the next 20+ years. By
any standard of measurement, this is irresistible.
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2009
Château Lagrange – 2 cases (12x75cl) and
1 case (6x75cl) available
Tightly knit, oaky and rich, with formidable
concentration, but broodingly backward and not
showing the charm and concentration of the top wines
of St.-Julien, this 2009 from Lagrange is still an
outstanding effort that has length, richness and
character. It should be cellared for a good 5-6 years
and then consumed over the following 25 years.
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2009 Château
Branaire-Ducru – 3 cases (12x75cl) and 1 case
(6x75cl) available
Haut couture becomes a wine! This dense purple wine
has the tell-tale notes of flowers and pencil
shavings, and its broad aromatics are intense and
totally captivating. Powerful, rich, and full, but
less tannic than the 2005 and more opulent, this is a
dazzling Branaire to drink between 2017-2035.
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2009 Château
Langoa-Barton - 1 case (12x75cl) and 1 case (6x75cl)
available
Backward, tannic and beefy, this youthful but
formidable 2009 Langoa Barton exhibits a dense
ruby/purple color as well as lots of damp earth,
underbrush and black currant aromas and flavors,
medium to full body, lively acids and, not
surprisingly, massive tannins (a characteristic of
all the Barton wines). The overall impression is
somewhat incongruous, having a certain precociousness
in the aromatics, but then clamping down on the
taster in the mouth. I recommend waiting 5-7 years
before opening a bottle. It should drink well over
the following 20-25 years.
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2009 Château
Léoville-Barton – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
Head and shoulders above its stablemate, Langoa
Barton, proprietor Anthony Barton’s 2009
Leoville Barton is another massive, excruciatingly
rich, tannic, potentially long-aged wine. Meant for
consumers with old fashioned tastes, it boasts a
dense opaque purple color as well as a bouquet of
licorice, forest floor, unsmoked cigar tobacco and a
hint of earth. The wine reveals tremendous denseness
and richness, a broad, savory mouthfeel and elevated
tannins in the finish. However, there is a sweetness
to the tannins and no trace of bitterness and
astringency, always a sign of a top vintage as well
as fully mature grapes. Still a monolithic baby, this
2009 should be forgotten for at least a decade, and
consumed over the next 30-50 years.
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2009 La Croix de
Beaucaillou – 1 case (12x75cl) and 1 case
(6x75cl) available
The grand vin is the result of an increasingly strict
selection process, with approximately 50% of the
production going into the final wine and the balance
used in the Croix de Beaucaillou. The 2009 may be the
finest example of this cuvee I have yet tasted.
Up-front, precocious and generous, it possesses a
dense purple color, a big, broad, unctuous texture
and abundant notes of creme de cassis and black
cherry fruit intertwined with hints of wood smoke,
vanillin and earth. This nearly viscous-styled wine
can be drunk in 2-3 years or cellared for 15+.
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2009 Château
Ducru-Beaucaillou – 2 cases (12x75cl)
available
The 2009 Ducru Beaucaillou will eclipse the brilliant
wines produced in 2005, 2003 and 2000. It will be
interesting to see how the 2009 fares against the
2010 after twenty years of aging, but my money is on
the 2009. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15%
Merlot that achieved 13.5% natural alcohol, this inky
purple, unctuous wine possesses classic aromas of
graphite, creme de cassis, blueberries, violets,
licorice and Christmas fruitcake. Full-bodied and
intense with Ducru’s inimitable elegance and
purity, it should firm up in the bottle after 7-10
years of cellaring and last for 40-50 years.
Magnificent!
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Margaux
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“In short, 2009 is the greatest vintage I have
tasted in Bordeaux since 1982, of which it is a
modern-day version, but greatly improved.”
Robert Parker
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2009 Château
Prieuré-Lichine – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
The soft, sexy 2009 exhibits a dense plum/purple
color along with a big, sweet bouquet of raspberries,
black cherries, black currants, smoke and forest
floor. Opulent and round with an attractive viscosity
as well as outstanding purity, depth and length, it
should drink well for two decades. While not one of
the longest lived wines of the vintage, it is among
the most precocious, flattering and charming at
present.
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2009 Château Kirwan
– 1 case (12x75cl) available
A big, powerful Margaux that should age for 20+
years, this inky purple-colored wine exhibits notes
of spring flowers intermixed with blackberries,
raspberries and cassis. Some lead pencil shavings and
toasty oak are also present in this powerful yet at
the same time very pure, textured, full-throttle
Kirwan. It needs about 5-7 years of cellaring and
will be among the longest-lived wines of the vintage.
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2009 Château La
Gurgue – 1 case (12x75cl) available
*No tasting note found*
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2009 Château
Giscours – 1 case (12x75cl) available
The finest Giscours in my professional career (I said
the same thing from barrel), this dense purple wine
has a stunning nose of burning embers, charcoal,
creme de cassis, new saddle leather and damp, forest
floor notes. It is full-bodied, with exceptionally
sweet, well-integrated tannins and a
multi-dimensional, almost skyscraper-like mid-palate
and finish. With its low acidity and remarkable
substance and depth, this gorgeous wine should age
beautifully for 20-30 years.
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Other Médoc
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2009 Château
Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc – 1 case
(12x75cl) available
Beautiful blueberry, black raspberry and cassis fruit
as well as incense and graphite jump from the glass
of this inky ruby/purple-colored wine. Ripe, medium
to full-bodied, dense and rich, this is one of the
stars of Moulis in 2009. Given its low acidity but
abundant tannin, I suspect it could close down in a
few years and last two decades.
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2009
Château Beaumont, Haut-Médoc – 6
cases (12x75cl) available
Wood spice, roasted herbs and black currants are
present in this solidly made, supple blend of 53%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and the rest Petit
Verdot. Drink it over the next 4-5 years.
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2009 Château
Potensac, Médoc – 8 cases (12x75cl)
available
This fairly priced Medoc from Jean-Hubert Delon (the
proprietor of Leoville-Las-Cases) has hit almost 14%
natural alcohol and looks to be the best wine made at
this estate since 1982, which drank well for 15 years
and cost about $4.00 a bottle in that era. Crisp,
mineral notes intermixed with mulberry, black cherry
and black currant fruit jump from the glass of this
classic Bordeaux, which is both powerful and elegant.
There is considerable substance to the wine, with its
attractive texture and overall sense of precision and
elegance. This is a sleeper of the vintage not to be
missed. Anticipated maturity: now-2022.
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2009 Château La
Tour de By – 5 cases (12x75cl)
available
*Black cherry colour. Smooth but firmly structured.
Shows completeness and real presence and length,
finishing fresh and elegant. Very good.*
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Pessac-Léognan
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2009 Château
Carbonnieux – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
A classic Pessac-Leognan, the 2009 Carbonnieux
possesses aromas of sweet black currants and cherries
intermixed with hints of roasted herbs, unsmoked
cigar tobacco, charcoal and licorice. Medium to
full-bodied with more concentration than many
vintages, this surprisingly fleshy effort has more
poundage and glycerin than this normally light-styled
Bordeaux has offered in the past. Harmonious sweet
tannins and low acidity give the wine a fleshy
mouthfeel and immediate appeal, but most of its
aromatic complexity will not emerge for another 5-7
years. It should keep for two decades or more.
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2009 Château
Pape-Clément – 2 cases (12x75cl)
available
Although the 2009 Pape Clement may not be as sublime
as the 2005 or 2000, but it is very close to those
two efforts, and it will be fascinating to compare
them (as well as the 2008 and 2010) over the
following three decades. A blend of 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc with a
modest 13.5% alcohol, the 2009 reveals considerable
structure and tannin along with tell-tale notes of
burning embers, scorched earth, graphite,
blueberries, blackberries and toasty vanillin, and a
full-bodied mouthfeel. This rich, full offering is
surprisingly backward. This cuvee should drink well
in 5-6 years as one rarely has to wait a decade or
more to enjoy Pape Clement. It should age for three
decades or more.
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Dry Whiites
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2009 Domaine de
Chevallier Blanc – 3 cases (12x75cl) and 1 case
(6x75cl) available
This wine has closed down since I saw it prior to
bottling. A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20%
Semillon from one of the great estates in
Pessac-Leognan, the wine has notes of white currants,
melon, and flint/crushed rock with a delicate hit of
orange and lemon zest. Give it another 4-5 years of
cellaring and drink it over the following three
decades.
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2009 Château Smith
Haut Lafitte Blanc – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
Smith-Haut-Lafitte hit a home run with their red
Pessac-Leognan and came very close to perfection with
their dry white Graves. Possibly the best dry white
the estate has produced since the proprietors, the
Cathiards, acquired the property in 1990, this wine
exhibits a sensational fragrance of buttered citrus,
honeyed melons and a touch of grapefruit, lemon zest
and orange rind. It also displays grapefruit on the
attack and mid-palate as well as real opulence,
terrific acidity and length. Drink it over the next
15-20 years. Astonishing!
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Sweet Whites
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N.B. Tasting notes are those penned by Neal Martin
for erobertparker.com during barrel tastings in early
2010
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2009 Château
de Myrat – 1 case (12x75cl) available
Very tight and taciturn on the nose at the moment,
but the palate is very well balanced with vibrant
acidity, real clarity of fruit here with a superb,
tense, citrus finish that just slices through that
pure, heavenly botrytized fruit. This is very
elegant, almost understated, but the purity is
utterly charming.
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2009 Château
Lamothe-Guignard – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
The nose of the 2009 Lamothe-Guignard is very tight
at the moment, unfurling slowly with honey, acacia,
almond and fresh apricot. The palate has a viscous
entry, with what appears to be more residual sugar
than other 2009s. It is unctuous towards the honey
and peach-driven finish. Very generous at this
nascent stage, but the length suggests a potentially
great wine after bottling.
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2009 Château Guiraud
– 1 case (6x75cl) available
The 2009 Guiraud is very tight on the nose, taking
time to unfurl, with notes of apricot, peach, a touch
of honeysuckle and quince. Good definition. The
palate is impressive: tightly coiled, honeyed fruit,
very fine acidity, linear at first then fanning out
across the finish with notes of dried apricot,
nectarine, a touch of almond and a faint hint of
spice. With good length and unctuous on the finish,
this Guiraud is impossible to ignore.
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2009 Château de
Rayne-Vigneau – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
The 2009 Rayne-Vigneau is one of the stars of the
vintage. It has a very well defined, almost
understated nose with white peach, apricot and lime
leaf: very pretty and succinct. The palate is very
well balanced, beautifully defined with real
minerality showing through the viscous, botrytized
fruit. Great tension here, effortlessly
counterbalancing the richness to perfection.
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2009 Château
Rieussec – 5 cases (12x75cl) available
The minerality and stoniness really comes through on
the nose of this Rieussec, more than the 2007. The
palate is very well balanced with superb acidity,
real tension, steely with great precision with notes
of apricot, white peach and honey on the beautifully
defined finish. Probably the best Rieussec since the
astounding 2001.
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2009 Château
Climens – 2 cases (12x75cl) available
Picked in just two tries, 90% picked in one trie,
tasting through 13 separate lots, the core components
of a great Climens appear to be in place. Paying
particular attention to the lots that constitute a
large percentage of the blend (usually around 15%)
the common themes are ones of great purity,
persistency and precision. The aromatics display pure
honey, minerals, occasionally a faint scent of
spearmint and white peach, most with spellbinding
precision. On the palate, Berenice Lurton has some
stupendous lots at her disposal, with ample botrytis,
ethereal definition, one or two more powerful, quite
spicy lots and others that are shorter and will
undoubtedly lend the blend an acidic cut. It will be
a joy to taste this after bottling.
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St Emilion
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2009
Château Bellefont-Belcier – 4 cases
(12x75cl) available
This is one of the finest wines I have tasted from
this highly regarded terroir that has rarely been
exploited to its maximum potential. Loads of chalk
dust intertwined with sweet kirsch, black currants,
licorice and camphor jump from the glass of this
full-bodied wine, which has terrific fruit intensity,
lots of glycerin, a lavish richness and a long, heady
finish with light to moderate tannin. Give it 1-2
more years of bottle and drink it over the following
15.
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2009 Château La
Tour du Pin – 1 case (12x75cl)
available
This wine has closed down somewhat since I had it
from barrel and exhibits a firm, earthy,
mineral-laced style. Made from 80% Merlot and 20%
Cabernet Franc, the ripe black raspberry and
blueberry fruit are present, along with some sandy,
loamy soil notes. The tannins are sweet, but very
elevated, and the wine rich and long but currently
somewhat austere and needing bottle age. Give it 2 or
3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following
15+ years.
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2009 Carillon
d’Angélus - 1 case (12x75cl)
available
Essentially the second wine of Angelus, but coming
from a separate parcel that no longer goes into the
grand vin Angelus, this blend of equal parts Merlot
and Cabernet Franc hit 14% natural alcohol. It is a
soft, fruity, front end-loaded wine with plenty of
berry fruit, underbrush and herbs as well as a hint
of coffee and some loamy soil notes. Drink it over
the next 7-8 years.
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2009 Château La
Dominique – 1 case (12x75cl) and 1 cases
(6x75cl) available
Finally we have returned to the great La Dominiques
made in 1989 and 1990. This has much of the style of
the 1990, with supple tannin and loads of spicy
fruitcake, licorice, cassis and kirsch-like notes
that jump from this dense ruby/purple wine. Fat,
fleshy and full-bodied, with beautiful richness,
purity and length, this wine will be approachable in
its youth yet last for two decades (just like the
1989 and 1990).
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2009 Château
Canon – 3 cases (12x75cl) available
The finest Canon since the 1982, the 2009 (75% Merlot
and 25% Cabernet Franc) reveals a dense blue/purple
color along with a classic nose of chalk dust,
blueberries, black raspberries, black currants and a
touch of wood smoke. Medium to full-bodied, elegant
and loaded with an inner framework of minerality and
moderately high tannins, this backward, but stylish,
concentrated Canon will benefit from 7-8 years of
cellaring and last for three decades.
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2009 Vieux Château
Mazerat – 1 case (12x75cl) available
A blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc from
vines in clay over limestone planted in 1947, this
wine exhibits loads of chalky minerality and a
stunning nose of espresso, blackberry, mulberry and
kirsch. Elegant, with superb definition and a rich,
full-bodied mouthfeel, this effort has put on
considerable weight since I tasted it from barrel.
Unfortunately, the production is under 1,500 cases.
Anticipated maturity: 2016-2032.
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2009 Le Dôme
– 2 cases (12x75cl) available
One of the most distinctive wines made in Bordeaux,
Le Dome has one of the highest percentages of
Cabernet Franc of any claret I can think of. Composed
of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot, it exhibits a
certain delicacy and elegance (due to the Cabernet
Franc component) in addition to resounding power,
concentration, depth and multidimensional
personality. Black/purple to the rim, it offers
strikingly intense notes of spring flowers,
raspberries, mulberries and wood smoke, medium to
full body, sweet tannin and a cunning intensity and
texture that suggest finesse and delicacy. However,
the wine’s richness, length and lingering depth
build incrementally in this exceptional St.-Emilion.
It will be drinkable in 4-5 years and should age for
two decades or more. This is Jonathan Malthus’
finest wine to date.
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2009 Château
Troplong-Mondot – 1 case (6x75cl)
available
It boasts an inky/purple color along with a gorgeous
bouquet of mocha, chocolate, blackberry and cassis
fruit, an unctuous texture, a full-bodied, viscous
mouthfeel and a skyscraper-like, multilayered finish.
This spectacular wine is nearly overwhelming in its
richness, thickness and intensity. Once all its baby
fat falls away, the terroir characteristics and
additional nuances will emerge. This blockbuster,
fabulous Troplong Mondot will benefit from 10-15
years of cellaring and keep for three decades or
more. It is not shy either, bouncing over the palate
with 15.5% natural alcohol.
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Pomerol
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2009 Château
Nenin – 4 cases (12x75cl) available
The grand vin, the 2009 Nenin, is a blend of 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc with 14% natural
alcohol. This wine is the product of Jean-Hubert
Delon, the proprietor of Leoville-Las-Cases and the
excellent northern Medoc estate of Potensac. The wine
has closed down considerably since I saw it from
barrel, with a Medoc-like, structured minerality and
backwardness. The tannins have moved to the front,
and the wine displays loads of raspberry and black
cherry fruit with a hint of earth in addition to
floral notes. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and
drink it over the following 15-20 years.
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Other Right Bank
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2009 Château
d’Aiguilhe, Côtes de Castillon – 7
cases (12x75cl) available
Tiny yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare have
produced a wine with terrific fruit intensity, a
moderately tannic structure, and hints of chocolate,
cedar, spice box, and earth. Although not as big as I
expected given the vintage, it is well-made and
impressively endowed. Enjoy it over the next 12
years. (Tasted four times.)
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2009 La Fleur de
Bouard, Lalande-de-Pomerol – 1 case (6x75cl)
available
Over-achievers in short, the 2009 La Fleur de Bouard
is fabulous, with notes of blueberry, plum, licorice,
white flowers and camphor followed by a full-bodied,
well-endowed, textured, supple wine. Stunningly
concentrated, yet silky and seductive, it should be
drunk over the next 10+ years.
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