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Bin Ends & Broking

 

So, what exactly are bin ends? And from where does the broking stock come? All this is explained below, but load up your bargain-detecting software and set your mouse to "extreme click".

 

Bin Ends

 

A bin, in wine terms, is simply a part of the cellar where one stores wine. Say the cellar is divided up into 100 bins, each separated by a partition of some sort. Then imagine that each bin contains bottles of a single vintage of the same wine; for argument’s sake imagine that a particular bin starts out full to the gunwales with 1929 Château Latour. This wine has been on one's wine list for some time and now there are but a few bottles remaining, rolling around at the bottom of the bin. What you really would like to do is to get rid of them quickly, thereby freeing up the bin, perhaps for the 1930 vintage (quel dommage; it was a dog). The natural inclination is to knock a slab off the ticket and call a few close friends and especially favoured customers.

 

Our bin ends are simply a variation on this rather old-fashioned theme. Rather than wine sitting in our own bins, this list features wine held in our company account at Octavian; wine which we'd much rather sell, albeit sometimes with a reduced margin, than having it continue to tie up capital and accrue storage charges. Wines on this list are the remnants of offers past and, as such, have all passed rigorous selection tasting. There are superb wines on this list, many quite a bit more mature than when we first offered them…and, on the whole, at a lower price. This is your chance to take advantage of your wine merchant. Feel free!

 

 

2007 BORDEAUX

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2007

Château Berliquet, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A very floral nose here. The fruit's all about the ripest red apples and red and black plums.

On entry, this is very cool and fluid, with a nice easy style. There are some rich, nutty tannins that are very ripe and integrated. Blackcurrant and plum, fresh fruit. This is charming.

2013-2019 12x75cl £189.00

2007

Château Clinet, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France

Notes: Clinet this year gives off ripe, slightly tarry scents of pure, slightly peppery bramble fruit. The nose is a little creamy, a touch smoky. The palate is creamy, the fruit cool and blackberry. There are rich, integrated, nutty tannins and a minerality that swells through the palate. Subtle grip I found here. The tannins coat the mouth and squeak against the teeth like fine beach sand. This is linear, with a nice finish. Despite its dryness, I like it.
2014-2021 12x75cl £351.00

2007

Clos Fourtet, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

Big colour here.

Strawberry and raspberry nose, along with glacé blueberry notes.

This is a very cool wine, showing delightful raspberry fruit. Real persistence; subtle and elegant. There's great length here, too. Clos Fourtet's made something very good from the vintage

2012-2018 12x75cl £312.00

2007

Clos Haut Peyraguey, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France

Notes: A very rich nose, like a liqueur made from very ripe, yellow pears sprinkled with spice. There's a great, fat weal of sweet, creamy fruit here. The juicy acidity is submersed beneath this fruit. There are flavours of nuts. The finish leaves the mouth quite dry and there's excellent intensity right at the back. A great profile here and a fabulous finish. This shows off the qualities of the vintage to a tee!
2017-2030 12x37.5cl £144.00

2007

Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A rich nose of black cherries, blackcurrants and the blackest plums and there's a good deal of smoky wood. Quite a dense, fresh nose. This is really quite perfumed.

Creamy, crisp fruit on entry, largely of black plums. This is mineral and quite backward and full of structure. Juicy, plum skin fresh. There are some rich, nutty tannins. Tasted twice.

2014-2021 12x75cl £258.00

2007

Château La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

Very nice, creamy blackcurrant and pure plum fruit to the nose. Good concentration of aromas. This is floral and gives off wisps of smoke and nuts.

There are some fine, integrated tannins in the mouth. A juicy and cool wine. Very mineral and composed. A cool arrow of fresh fruit flies through this. Crisp and lively and very tasty.

2013-2020 6x75cl £300.00

2007

Château Lafon Rochet, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A tangy-fresh nose of plum and damson fruit, along with dark chocolate aromas.

The palate begins with a soft, cool entry, a touch creamy. There are credible, rich tannins and high minerality here. It just drives coolly onward in a nicely controlled fashion. Really good shape here. I like this. It's not big, but highly credible.

2014-2022 12x75cl £207.00

2007

Château Langoa-Barton, St Julien, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

Nice nose here, of tangy blackcurrants, with hints of ripe red apples and nut. The usual St Julien warmth and a little dried fruit.

The entry is all creamy, followed by spicy blackcurrant fruit. This has good grip and vigour and the tannins are rich and integrated. A beginning, middle and end here. Well done!

2012-2019 12x75cl £288.00

2007

Château Lascombes, Margaux, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A very deep colour.

The nose is big, smoky and gives off roasted nut wood aromas. The fruit's a bit inky at the moment, of cassis and damson.

There's a very cool, creamy entry once this wine's in the mouth. There are fine, grainy tannins, some rather woody. This is dry and quite worked. The fruit has a welcome purity about it. This is mouthcoating, long and juicy.

2013-2019 12x75cl £399.00

2007

La Croix de Beaucaillou, St Julien, Bordeaux, France

Notes: The nose is a rich, floral compote of ripe blackcurrants, with hints of plum. Quite a stately nose. There’s a lovely, cool concentration about Croix this year. It’s richly, nattily, almost pippily tannic, with a good weight of cassis fruit. Highly grippy. There’s lots going on here. Ducru has really performed this vintage.
2013-2020 12x75cl £195.00

2007

Château Léoville-Poyferré, St Julien, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A rich nose of cold tea and blackcurrants, with a distinct and rather pleasing animal note.

This is finely composed in the mouth. Therre are some very fine, totally integrated tannins and a lick of mineral expression. This is cool and complete and quite forward. Long and nicely concentrated. Nice wine.

 

Retasted in London 30/04/08

A very black, smoky nose, giving some peppery spice. There are floral notes to the blackcurrant fruit. Cool and just medium weight in the mouth. A very credible palate. Medium, fine, quite chunky tannins. Mineral and long, with some decent grip. Fresh. This has substance. 18/20.

 

2012-2019 12x75cl £369.00

2007

Château Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

This is opaque in hue, with a very narrow band at the rim.

The nose has a slightly roasted/toasted aspect and pure, slightly leafy blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon aromas.

This offers satin smooth blackcurrant fruit up front. There are low, paste-like, nutty tannins. The grip gains in intensity. A very mineral wine. Long and with real interest at the finish. A juicy ending.

Much more purpose here than the pretty-but-slight Calon.

2013-2022 12x75cl £459.00

2007

Château Moulin St Georges, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes: A floral, nutty nose, showing very fresh fruit. This is really quite aromatic. Fresh plums and blackcurrants and a bit of dark chocolate. Hint of rose petal. This is very cool and more backward than the Fonbel from the same stable. There are some nutty, mild tannins and the minerality kicks in half way through. A juicy cherry-ish finish. There's some grip at the back. Something of a banker, as usual.
2013-2020 12x75cl £225.00

2007

Château Rabaud-Promis, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A very pear-drop nose that includes an interesting suspicion of liquorice root.

Ther pear-drops are there on the palate, too. This is long and has a finish full of intensity. A pretty wine underpinned with chalky minerals. Sherbet. Most attractive mouthful.

2017-2030 12x75cl £282.00

2007

Château Rieussec, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A very rich, apricot and hazelnut nose. Meaty notes of gingery spice and lemon, with very good botrytis. In the mouth, this is sumptuous and really sweet, with burnt sugar flavours, those apricots again, plus a bucket-load of minerals. This is very well structured, with the acidity of Sauvignon Blanc at the end.

 

2017-2030 12x75cl £444.00

2007

Château Saint Pierre, St Julien, Bordeaux, France

Notes: The aromas are floral here, plus there are scents of damsons and blackcurrant. In the mouth, the entry is supple and cool, of blackcurrant and plum. There’s a welcome intensity and grip; real purpose to St Pierre. The fruit is fresh and the wine has shape and structure. This bristles. Good wine.
2014-2022 12x75cl £294.00

2007

Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

N.B. This is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc

Lovely colour: a deep ruby/purple

A pretty nose of summery, fresh fruits. There's real spice from the Franc, blackcurrants and pencil shavings.

This is full of structure right from the off. Cool and medium weight, with very fine, nutty, integrated tannin. A complete wine and a very good one.

2012-2020 6x75cl £315.00

2007

Château Kirwan, Margaux, Bordeaux, France

Notes: Floral, smoky nose, giving of aromas of pure cassis fruit. The entry is cool across the tongue. Not a big wine, but a juicy one, with aspects of the wood. Nutty. Not overdone and good.
2013-2020 12x75cl £258.00

2007

Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux, Margaux, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

A very pretty nose of pure blackcurrant Cabernet fruit, a touch meaty.

This is very cool in the mouth, medium weight and full of blackcurrant fruit. There are some nutty-rich tannins and great freshness here. Very long and it finishes harmoniously. Fine Pavillon.

 

2013-2019 12x75cl £381.00

2007

Château de Fieuzal Blanc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France

Notes: A ripe and floral nose, pretty and summery, giving up fruit of tangerine and lemon. The palate is quite backward at the moment; rather reined in. This is very mineral and grippy and prolonged. There’s a wealth of lime-like acidity and a really spicy finish. Long and lively.
2012-2017 6x75cl £141.00

2007

Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
2020-2040 12x75cl £3,960.00

2007

Château Léoville Lascases, St Julien, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
2015-2025 12x75cl £969.00


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2006 BORDEAUX

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2006

Château Cheval-Blanc, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

N.B. This is 55% Merlot; 45% Cabernet Franc. There's a chocolate note to the wood on the nose here. The fruit is rather closed, although some concentration of black plum and a touch of dried fruit. This is nicely rich and full of fine, nutty tannins. Cheval's quite a meaty wine this year; quite dry. Composed and nicely balanced and very mineral. Black plum fruit. Very juicy; nutty from the tannin. Medium plus acidity well tucked in. very, very long. Nicely chunky at the end. One of the wines of the vintage for me. 19/20.

 

"...While the 2006 may not eclipse the 2005, 2000, or 1998, it is not far off in terms of quality and longevity...92-95/100." Robert Parker

2015-2030 12x75cl £4,410.00

2006

Petit Cheval, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes: N.B. This is 60% Merlot, 40& Cabernet Franc There are lots of nutty, biscuit oak aromas here and there's a touch of meatiness to the fruit. Quite a solid nose here: meaty plums, very black. Touch of dried fruit about it. A dry and dryly tannic palate. This is full of nutty, decently natural, quite dry tannin, pretty well integrated. Black fruit: plums and kernel cherry flavours. This is very, very mineral. Medium plus acidity well covered by the fruit and there's a nice juiciness about it. This is highly structured and quite concentrated. 17/20.
2011-2018 12x75cl £708.00

2006

Château Troplong-Mondot, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes:

Smoky, black, cocoa-scented nose here. The palate is creamy, giving up brambly fruit flavours. This is full of rich tannins, but they're not overdone. This is balanced and even quite powerful. Long, with blueberry and bramble at the finish.

 

"The 2006 is a marvellous effort...91-94+/100." Robert Parker

2012-2025 12x75cl £654.00

2006

Château Coutet, Barsac, Bordeaux, France

Notes: "...Long and powerful. Arguably one of the longest lived here..17/20." Jancis Robinson
2013-2025 12x75cl £240.00


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2005 BORDEAUX

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2005

Extravagance de Doisy, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
2015-2040 1x37.5cl £100.00

2005

Château Poumey La Sérénité, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France

Notes: "Sweet, smoky, black currant and cherry notes intermixed with spice box and cedar emerge from this fleshy, medium to full-bodied Pessac-Leognan. Drink it over the next decade. 88-90/100." Robert Parker
2009-2017 6x75cl £210.00


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2007 BURGUNDY

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2007

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées, Guy Amiot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A very mineral nose here and the lemon fruit is present, although a touch closed.

It's the palate thaht really impresses here, so vigorous is it and really quite backward. The minerals are fine and chalky, the lemon fruit like the thrust of Vader's light sabre. There's fabulous linear shape and a live wire tension. The finish is pure class. Very lemony whole for the time being, but just you wait!

2011-2015 12x75cl £279.00

2007

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Guy Amiot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

As ever, this just offers a bit more of everything over and above the other 1er Crus in the cellar.

The nose is very mineral, that chalkiness coming through again. Fruit is of crisp pear and smoke and spice.

The palate has a richness allied to great freshness that starts right at the front. Very mineral and backward. There's concentrated structure and ripe fruit, plus hints of pepperiness here. Long, complex and highly impressive.

2011-2016 12x75cl £291.00

2007

Santenay Clos des Hâtes, Domaine Bachey-Legros, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. This vineyard was planted in 1935

There's delightful, smoky, black plum fruit to be found on the nose, along with a lick of creamy cassis.

On the palate this is cool and crisp from the off. Rich black plum fruit and fine minerals fill the mouth. There's a great crisp lift at the finish followed by an aftertaste of blueberry and plum. Masses occurring here. Fabulous village Santenay.

2011-2016 12x75cl £165.00

2007

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, Domaine Bernard-Bonin, Burgundy, France

Notes:

As ever, a very floral nose including dried minerals and camomile. The fruit is of tightly focussed lemon with a hint of dried fruit, too.

This is clean and pure across the tongue. The fruit is deliciously ripe and combined with the powdered minerals. A nice, laid-back palate. Small oranges. This is finely balanced and there is subtle strength to be found at the end. Profound stuff.

2012-2017 12x75cl £462.00

2007

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Bonneau du Martray, Burgundy, France

Notes:
2015-2022 12x75cl £690.00

2007

Meursault Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Buisson-Charles, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A rich nose that blends aromas of nut and orange with some that hint at dried fruit.

In the mouth, this is immediately ripe and easy going, with slightly honeyed, nutty fruit. Stage 2 of the palate slips into a different gear, turning very mineral and controlled. The minerals are expressed very finely. There a sweetness to the fruit and then a delightful lift at the very end bringing the palate to a highly satisfactory conclusion. This'll be delicious quite soon.

2010-2013 12x75cl £210.00

2007

Nuits-St-Georges, Jean Chauvenet, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A ripe nose. There's something meaty here: a nuance that combines with aromas of spice and fresh, tangy black fruits.

Tangy again on the palate: black plums and their skins. The tannins are well integrated, ripe and medium. Lovely profile here and the wine's very long. Really fresh in the mouth. Fine village example

2011-2016 12x75cl £180.00

2007

Meursault Les Narvaux, Philippe Chavy, Burgundy, France

Notes: A rich nose and already a complex one. I found chunks of nut among the lime flowers and green apple fruit. This gives off very chalky mineral aromas, as well as a hint of smoke. Supple-rich across the tongue with a lemon core. This is really zippy and energetic, with rich fruit welded to integrated minerals. Very long; very complete; very "knit".
2011-2015 12x75cl £231.00

2007

Puligny-Montrachet , Philippe Chavy, Burgundy, France

Notes:

An incisive nose, full of clearly defined aromas thath include lemon, nut and a wisp of smokiness. Complexity is augmented by notes of powdered minerals and lime blossom.

This has a rich, fresh palate with a distinct nuttines. There are smoky minerals to the great sweel and grip in the mouth. Excellent substance to this highly mineral wine. There's grippy crunch at the back and a fabulous finish. Classy Puligny.

2011-2015 12x75cl £330.00

2007

Pernand-Verglesses Blanc 1er Cru Les Combottes Vieilles Vignes, Château de Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A bright nose, very clean and clear, giving up green apple and lemon fruit and intriguing spices.

This is finely composed and really rather backward. In fact, lights and bushels spring to mind. It is lemony and nutty and very long and the finish is lit up by great, juicy crunch.

As ever, this wine is punching so far above its weight as to be a complete banker. I have almost finished my case of the 2003 vintage of this wine and have enjoyed every mouthful.

2011-2016 12x75cl £156.00

2007

Beaune 1er Cru Domaine de Saux, Château de Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. This is a blend of fruit from the 1er Cru vineyards of Boucherottes, Cent Vignes and Teurons).

Really very rich, aromtic nose of black cherry and blueberry fruit and animal notes, which Benoît Germain tells me is the Boucherottes influence.

A smooth, fluid entry opens the door onto a forward palate. There's very little tannin here, making it immediately easy to enjoy. Definitely feminine in character, there's nice, gentle grip to the easy length. This is really very long; the fruit is deliciously fresh and altogether lovely.

2011-2017 12x75cl £207.00

2007

Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras, Château de Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. The soils here are silaceous chalk. Well, there might be geologists among you!

A very smoky nose greeted me, followed by extremely rich aromas of ripe red cherry fruit. There's a hint of clove-spice to the nose; perhaps with floral, red plum aromas creeping in.

There's stunning concentration to the silky red fruits on entry. The fruit has picked up a great deal of mineral complexity from the soils of Les Cras. The wine swells in the mouth in that classic "peacock's tail" shape: a sure sign of the quality within. Very cool; very classy, and very backward. This is as utterly lovely as usual.

2014-2020 12x75cl £321.00

2007

Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau, Jean Grivot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

Really concentrated aromas to the nose here. I found red and black fruits here, but not the hedgerow berries of Gevrey, rather the fruits of the kitchen garden and orchard. There's a nutty richness here as well.

Take a sip and this is instantly nutty and fresh, delightfully sliky and cool. There are some fine tannins that are beautifully integrated. The balance sets this apart, as well as that pure wave of red and black sumptuous fruit. The finish is really fresh. Lovely stuff.

2011-2018 12x75cl £312.00

2007

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges, Jean Grivot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A very floral and thoroughly delicious nose of red and black fruits, including currants and cherries.

The start of the palate is pure silk: the coolest wave of cloth that breezes in and sets up shop. The mineral expression only serves to add to the sense of elegance. The red fruits become a little crunchier, but this remains a stunningly feminine example: an Audrey Hepburn of a wine!

2012-2020 12x75cl £480.00

2007

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L'Exception, Michel Lafarge, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. This is the product of 85 year old vines

What?!? A passetoutgrains on a Bowes Wine offer? What's going on? These wines are much maligned and often justifiably so. Passetoutgrains, loosely translated, means "bung all the grapes in" and, indeed, this is a blend of both Pinot Noir and Gamay. The fact that it has made it onto our offering is down to the hand of the wine maker. Michel Lafarge and now his son are among the top wine makers anywhere. Some of their more senior wines will appear on offers coming up, but I will take this opportunity to copy Jancis's thoughts on this wine: "Most years it’s a Cinderella wine, something the merchants have to buy to get their hands on the top stuff, but can often find it difficult to sell. This is a shame as it’s a really serious wine, a very distinct step up from their basic Passetoutgrains, from 80 year-old vines grown on a specific clay-limestone patch of vineyard that, with Clos des Chênes, represented Michel L’s father’s entire holding when he began."

 

A serious nose and a very pure and delicious one. I found floral, black cherry fruit, spice and the freshest plums.

Take a mouthful and this is immediately rich, supple and, again, very pure. The fruit is a more-ish amalgam of black cherries and plums, wound through with nutty, rich tannin. This is beautifully balanced; very long. Eye-opening stuff.

2010-2013 12x75cl £99.00

2007

Pommard, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. Parts of this vineyard are 100 years old

A richer nose than the Volnay from the same cellar. This gives off wild aromas of damson and sloe, smoke and liquorice.

This is very mineral in the mouth, with fine, medium tannins integrated into the rich and spicy, wild black fruits. This is very long and even quite backward. Stunning for a village Pommard.

2012-2017 12x75cl £171.00

2007

Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

The nose boasts a richnes of deliciously pure, curranty fruit. There are hints of smoke and flowers to this fruit, which is both red and black.

A cool, rich palate with some impressive structure and fresh fruit of red and black cherries and currants. There's spome fine grip here and minerals to be found coating the finish. This is long and juicy and rather fabulous.

2013-2018 12x75cl £186.00

2007

Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Charmots, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. This wine is the product of 70 year old vines

I found a rich, mineral-scented nose of ripe, liqueur-like black fruits: plum and cherry.

The palate is very rich and cool and concentrated, with hints of raspberry. This is full of vigour and energy. Flavours of blueberry underpinned by minerals, a natural freshness and great, juicy length lift this to another plain. This really needs time. Elegant and lovely; very juicy at the finish.

2013-2019 12x75cl £234.00

2007

Hautes Côtes de Nuits Le Prieuré, Aurelien Verdet, Burgundy, France

Notes:

The fruit on the nose is rich, very black and a touch animal.

This is one cool wine, giving up a palate of black plum and smoke. This is very long and hints at minerality before the fine, nutty tannins kick in. There's a rich crunch of fruit right at the back. Lots of black plum and cherry going on. Excellent Hautes Côtes.

2011-2014 12x75cl £162.00

2007

Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

The nose here is ripe and redolent of rich blueberry and red cherry.

In the mouth, this starts off disarmingly cool and easy-going. What quickly becomes apparent, however, is the palate's wonderfully controlled, linear shape. There are minerals and juicy grip and beauiful fruit of red currants. The tannins are super-fine and totally integrated with the fruit; nutty. The impression one's left with is of otherworldy balance. Truly fine.

2013-2020 12x75cl £342.00

2007

Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, Joseph Voillot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

A lovely colour, properly pale

I met spicy, tangy red and black fruit of bramble, cranberry, rosehip and currant. There's something earthy/masculine about this, as well as some clove-like spice.

Like the Caillerets from the same source, this is cool and easy on entry, but there's subtle power that unmistakeable. It's relaxed for much of the palate, but then explodes in volume, picking up minerals and a juicy intensity. Very long. There's lots going on at the end. Big, bold and impressive wine.

2014-2020 12x75cl £396.00


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2006 BURGUNDY

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2006

Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, Boyer-Martenot, Burgundy, France

Notes: This is a great deal more restrained, more backward. It is mineral rich and touched by floral melon and pear fruit. Hint of fennel? And a little toast. The fruit is really quite solid in the mouth, with concentrated, fluid fruit and fine-grained minerals. Solid grip at the back and fine lift at the very end. A chunky wine of real intensity. There is subtlety here, too, however. I like this a great deal.
2012-2018 12x75cl £360.00

2006

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Roi, Château de Corton-André, Burgundy, France

Notes:

N.B. The vines here are 70 years old.

N.B.x2 I always feel confidence in a vineyard called Clos du Roi (there are a few in Burgundy). It implies that, sometime in the past, one king or other has liked the wine so much that he's bagged the vineyard for his own household.

 

There are notes of violet here and black cherry fruit. There is some spice and that includes liquorice root. Good dense aromas. A silky, dark, damson entry tees things up nicely for a mineral, compact follow-through. Great length; rich, nutty tannins. Very, very long and structured. This is a keeper if ever I've seen one…and a beautiful one at that.

2012-2018 12x75cl £192.00

2006

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Petite Chapelle, Dupont-Tisserandot, Burgundy, France

Notes:

At its best, this vineyard produces a wine that has ravishing aromatics and Didier has managed to deliver this in a wine that offers rich aromas, at once fresh and very pure. There are concentrated notes of fresh cherries, red and black, with a lick of cassis. This is very pretty on the nose.

 

The palate offers the chance to experience that classic "peacock's tail" that one finds so rarely, but that denotes the highest quality; that is to say that it goes in the mouth and fans out, seeming to explore regions of one's molars undisturbed by brushing. The fruit is creamy and full of mineral terroir. There that cherry fruit again, finishing in a raspberry ripple twist. Rich tannins, okay, but very ripe: nutty. A complete wine and very fine.

2013-2021 6x75cl £193.50

2006

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Fichots, Follin-Arbelet, Burgundy, France

Notes: Ripe, pure and rather beautiful concoction of a nose. There are sloes and blueberries, along with some black cherry. Very fresh fruit, a little peppery. The palate gives up rather pretty fruit, too, black and red, particularly cherry. This is very fresh, very mineral. There are some chunky, ripe tannins. Altogether long, nutty and rather backward. Please don't be put off just because of Pernand's slight lack of glamour. This is a wine for clever money.
2011-2018 12x75cl £177.00

2006

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Vercots, Follin-Arbelet, Burgundy, France

Notes: Pure cherry fruit here, largely black. There are wisps of spice and flowers, too. Concentrated, rich fruit full of freshness and pure black fruits: fresh cherries and plums. The tannins are very rich, nutty and they coat the mouth. This is really quite powerful and very, very long; composed and full of grip. Better than many a Corton Grand Cru, in other words.
2014-2020 12x75cl £252.00

2006

Vosne-Romanée Villages, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France

Notes: There are floral notes and fresh aromas of black cherries and small plums. In the mouth, this is cool, medium weight, pretty and pure. The fruit is all damson and cherry and there's a dusting of fine, nutty tannins. This is mineral, fresh and nicely long. There couldn't be a better starting point for an examination of the great wines of Vosne-Romanée.
2009-2016 12x75cl £252.00

2006

Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France

Notes: This is deeper in colour than the village wine. The nose is deeper, too, and offers up concentrated black cherry and plum aromas. There's a touch of spice to this perfumed nose. The texture is fine velvet, then one notices the freshness and minerality. There is fine balance and real persistence to the palate here, as well as rich, masculine tannins. This is very long, with a fabulous finish. Really fresh wine.
2011-2018 12x75cl £384.00

2006

Meursault Tillets, Domaine Bernard-Bonin, Burgundy, France

Notes: The nose is a little unfinished, but rich and concentrated, with dried flowers and lemon and lime fruit. This is highly concentrated, with a rich, parallel fruit profile including lime and pear. There's real follow-through and great intensity here. All-in-all a juicy, mineral and very, very long wine.
2011-2015 12x75cl £252.00

2006

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, Domaine Bernard-Bonin, Burgundy, France

Notes: Very complex nose of dried flowers (I often find chamomile in the wines of Folatières), minerals and lemon fruit. Nutty bits as well. This is rich, but solid and highly structured, with real lemon freshness. Very backward and compact and parallel. This is one very, very determined wine and quite brilliant with it.
2012-2017 12x75cl £450.00

2006

Volnay Village, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes: This is a desperately pretty nose. I located floral, berry-ish aromas of redcurrants, cherries and that red liquorice that used to get stuck between one's teeth when one was a child. Nicely rich, nutty, easy fruit on this. There are some gentle, nutty tannins. Don't be taken in, however. There is subtle grip here and a wealth of red fruits. Very long. Excellent village wine.
2009-2016 12x75cl £150.00

2006

Beaune 1er Cru Les Vignes Franches, Rebourgeon-Mure, Burgundy, France

Notes: A real compote here. There's a hint of that liquorice again, some other spices and liqueur-like red fruit cocktail. Rich and succulent fruit with a linear freshness hidden within. This is very persistent, with that key parallel shape. Medium, ripe tannins and a fabulous lift at the end. Finish is out of sight.
2010-2017 12x75cl £162.00


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2004 BURGUNDY

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2004

Echézeaux Grand Cru, François Lamarche, Burgundy, France

Notes: The nose here is a rich and broad, a red fruit cocktail of red currants and plums, overlaid with a subtle spice. The entry of the palate is fleshy and supple. I found flavours of red fruits and minerals, really concentrated and cool. It has fine shape in the mouth, this wine. In fact, it is a really fine and elegant example of a Grand Cru from a vineyard that can sometimes under-perform.
2012-2020 6x75cl £198.00


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2007 RHONE – North

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2007

St Joseph Lauterets, E & J Durand, Northern Rhône, France

Notes:

A really peppery nose here. The aromas of blackberries and their jam are given dimension by notes of milk and dark chocolate.

Take a sip and the fruit drives coolly forward in a plum and pepper flavoured wave. This is very nicely composed, with linear shape right up to the finish, where it becomes crunchy with minerals and grip. Rich, textured tannins add a welcome skeleton, as does the fresh, medium acidity.

As ever, at this stage, this is a big, black wine and one that's punching far above its weight.

2011-2016 12x75cl £171.00

2007

Cornas Empreintes, E & J Durand, Northern Rhône, France

Notes:

A super-black and rich nose of cocoa and the blackest plums meets the taster. The plums have the sorts of tangy skins that split with a crack under one's teeth. There's an animal note dusted with dry spice.

The palate's very cool, fresh and pure, having a fine shape in the mouth. This is proper Cornas, proved to be so by rich, masculine, ripe tannins, the tannins grippy and largely integrated. This is a complete and big wine; very long with a peppery finish lifting the wealth of plummy fruit. Classically built and a keeper.

2014-2021 12x75cl £201.00

2007

Côte-Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy, Gilles Barge, Northern Rhône, France

Notes:

Very aromatic nose of red and black fruits, along with exciting notes of smoke and spice. There's something medicinal here, complimenting the dry spice aromas and the lovely, pure, red cherry and blueberry fruit. There are nutty bits and a hint of liquorice. The second barrel added aromas of dried herbs: an almost pine-like note.

This is very fresh in the mouth and very mineral and shows a fine linear shape. The palate fills out really strongly towards the finish, where lurk granular-textured minerals and an earthy nuance. This is very, very long and there's excellent juiciness at the back. The second barrel was more supple, yet more animal and the fruit was a very cool expression of bramble and blueberry welded to rich, upright tannins. Fine stuff.

2013-2020 12x75cl £240.00

2007

Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Christophe, Domaine des Remizières, Northern Rhône, France

Notes:

N.B. The fruit for this wine comes from a 70 year-old vineyard. The wine sees 80% new oak. A cool nose, creamy-rich and smoky. There are herbal notes, as well as a hint of char to the ripe bramble and black plum fruit.

This goes in the mouth as a cool and fluid wave, but the structure quickly becomes apparent. This is backward and full of grip and vim. It bristles with very rich, tacky tannin. A very fresh wine and a powerful one. Pure and long and very, very young. Mineral. Lots of fruit concentration in its plumy, brambly blackness. There's a little oak to absorb, but it'll be a classic of the appellation. Excellent value here.

2012-2018 12x75cl £165.00


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2007 RHONE - South

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2007

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos des Papes, Avril, Southern Rhône, France

Notes: N.B. Again, this is a wine to drink in the first 4 years before putting it away for the next 6 whilst it shuts up tight like cocoon. Thereafter it will emerge like a nutty butterfly. The nose is simply beautiful, giving off scents of crystallised fruits, including small oranges, lemon and lime, pear, peach and those kernelly notes like almonds. This is rich but very cool in the mouth, going forward in a wave of pear, white peach and almond fruit. There's a distinct stoniness here: minerals. Very juicy wine. I also found a spice flavours like fresh ginger. Very fresh; very concentrated; very elegant; very mineral. Grippy and very, very long. The minerals at the finish have the texture of talcum powder. Utterly beguiling.
2010-2020 12x75cl £354.00

2008

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine St Préfert, Southern Rhône, France

Notes:

There are complex herbal notes like fennel to the very ripe nose of yellow fruits. There are spice notes and aromas of fresh apples and pears, even star fruit. I could also smell a little dried fruit (of the sort that gives one's digestion a work-out).

This has a rich, ripe and concentrated palate underpinned by minerals that come across like crushed rock. There's a fabulous density at the end. Altogther, this is very long, very fresh and exceedingly fabulous.

2010-2018 12x75cl £306.00

2007

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition, Pierre Usseglio, Southern Rhône, France

Notes:

N.B. This is 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault.

A classic nose, just crying out Châteauneuf. I found gamy notes and aromas of garrigue. The fruit is a liqueur, red and black. A dense nose and a rather peppery one. Bramble meets meat and saddle leather.
This goes in the mouth creamy and cool, with flavours of blueberry and plum and bramble. There's that meaty note again, before structure kicks in in the way of rich and integrated tannins that are upright, yet not stern. This is very long, very mineral. What a busy, complete wine, intense and full of grip. If this is a "basic" cuvée, one needs to adjust one's expectation of the extraordinary heights to come!

 

90-93/100 - Robert Parker

2012-2020 12x75cl £261.00


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2006 RHONE

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2006

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve, Domaine de Pégau, Southern Rhône, France

Notes:

The nose here is spicy with liquorice aromas. There is a suggestion of chocolate to the black cherry and damson fruit; hints of earth, roasted game.

 

This is very mineral in the mouth and these minerals support small plum and black cherry fruit of great concentration. There are nutty, firm, integrated, ripe tannins and a hint of coffee at the finish. This is powerful and rather elemental at the moment, but with such potential.

 

"…there's no question that the Ferrauds have pulled much more material out of this vintage than many. 91-93/100." Robert Parker

2013-2020 6x75cl £172.50

2006

Bandol Cuvée Classique, Domaine Tempier, Bandol, France

Notes:

A sweet nose of black fruit, chestnuts, liquorice root and aromatic pipe tobacco. The fruit is black cherries, a little meaty.

 

This is really fresh, just medium weight, showing cool fruit. Very compact and backward. There's great juicy lift at the end of the palate. Very, very long. Great harmony here, as well as tension. Fabulous finish. This is very fine.

2013-2025 6x75cl £81.00

2006

Bandol Cuvée Migoua, Domaine Tempier, Bandol, France

Notes:

The nose here is all about its purity of black fruit. It really is very pretty. There are brushstrokes of black rubber and flowers to the canvas of fresh cherries and small pointilliste daubings of black pepper and chocolate.

A sip brings a supple, chocolate and black cherry entry. As one the nose, the fruit in the mouth is very pure and punctuated by minerals. Right at the wine’s core there is really fresh acidity and fine, rich tannins. This is both very pure and very lovely.

2016-2030 6x75cl £126.00


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2005 RHONE

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2005

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Classique, Domaine Giraud, Southern Rhône, France

Notes:

This is a touch closed at the moment, but there are proper meaty Châteauneuf aromas, along with fresh mushroom and smoke and an interesting citrus note. In the mouth, I found smoky bacon flavours and black and red fruits in abundance. Medium weight and cool, rich and vibrant. This is composed, very long and subtle wine.

 

(RP 89-91/100 "…wonderful sweetness, purity, and mouthfeel.")

2011-2017 12x75cl £174.00

2005

Gigondas Ventabren, Moulin de la Gardette, Southern Rhône, France

Notes:

N.B. This is 10% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and 70% Grenache

 

Nutty, black fruit nose, with good breadth of Grenache and hints of liquorice. There's a floral note, too, of roses perhaps and a twist of black pepper. Cool and silky in the mouth, with some nutty, chunky tannins. This is persistent and fresh with really good grip. Complete and balanced, with a very long, mineral finish.

2011-2018 12x75cl £162.00

2005

Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Classique, Pierre Usseglio, Southern Rhône, France

Notes:

Nutty, broad, rich, liquorice-scented, black cherry nose. This has distinctly meaty notes.

Concentrated in the mouth, very cool, with red and black fruits: cherries, some dried. There's very good density up front. Then there are integrated, medium tannins. This is very mineral. Great drive and vim at the end. Fabulous Chateauneuf.

 

"...outstanding ripeness and length...92-94/100." Robert Parker

2010-2015 6x75cl £183.00


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MISCELLANEOUS WINES

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
2000

Delaforce Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal

Notes:

Previous price £261 per 12x75cl in bond

"…Very lively, vigorous…lots of violet flavours…17/20." Jancis Robinson

 

Virtually opaque, with a very narrow ruby/purple band at the rim. A rich, full nose of spiced plums. Really good depth to this, but no burliness. This is medium weight and elegant and the finish is really very good indeed. This is long and intense, the medium acidity beautifully covered by the fruit extraction. There are some very fine-grained tannins.

On day 2: still medium weight and really fresh. This is fine. Not massive, but really lovely.

 

2012-2025 12x75cl £261.00

2006

Johann Georg Shiraz, Kalleske, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia

Notes:

It is apparent from the first sniff that this is a wine built to age. There's a wealth of ripe bramble fruit plus damsons peppered with mineral notes and some toasty chocolate wood. There a creamy entry here, but then it snaps into a very backward mode. Highly structured and full of minerals and grip. Very long and juicy. Bristling and highly concentrated. Needs time.

 

N.B. This vintage of Johann Georg is, as yet, unscored by the world's critics. The problem is that, by the time they get 'round to tasting it, it's generally sold out! The last two vintages have received a 96% score from Robert Parker and I can only imagine that the 2006 will be similarly treated.

2014-2022 3x75cl £147.00

2006

Greenock Creek Shiraz, Kalleske, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia

Notes:
2012-2019 12x75cl £243.00

2004

Sacrisassi, Le Due Terre, Friuli, Italy

Notes:

Excellent, fresh red fruit: red cherry; red plum. There's a touch of crunchy cranberry, too. After a bit, a wisp of blueberry emerges. In the mouth, this is super-cool and just medium weight, but there's a superior elegance to it like a super-model wearing ultra-supportive underwear. This gains in grip and mineral character all the way through the palate. Long and full of energy and vim. Black and red plum fruit. Super-mineral, with great crunch to the fruit.

 

On breathing, the fruit is blacker and includes some damson. There's an almost peppery spice on the nose. Floral plum skins and a savoury hint of dry cocoa powder. There are some firm, but well integrated tannins and medium plus acidity beautifully covered.

2009-2014 6x75cl £120.00

2003

Riesling The Contours Museum Reserve, Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley, Australia

Notes:

Lovely pale lime-tinted lemon colour in the glass

I found a rich nose here, classically Riesling in its hints of petrol and toast and the fruit aromas of lemon and lime. Some of the fruit smells crystallised and there's an interesting note of putty that, for all I know, could be the vineyard soils speaking to me. Floral notes emerge, of both fresh and dried blossoms and there are the mereest wisps of strawberry and earth. Lastly, I thought I found a herbal note and wrote "sage?"

The palate reveals a ripe wine and a finely focussed one. There's a great, linear profile to be found right through its not inconsiderable length and finely granular minerals twine through its mineral thrust. The long finish is dotted with pepper spice, the very end earthily textured with terroir. A complex and fascinating wine

2011-2019 12x75cl £108.00

2003

Valbuena, Vega Sicilia, Ribera del Duero, Spain

Notes: The colour has taken on the first signs of ageing from the wood in the slight "bricking" at the rim of the garnet bowl. The nose, too, is starting to develop cedary, almost claret-like notes to its concentrated blackcurrant fruit aromas. There are nuances of spice and an overall meatiness here. There is proper, Bordeaux-style structure on the palate, with minerals and fine tannins underpinning a driving wedge of cassis flavoured fruit. The wine is very, very long in the mouth. This remains fresh and complex and will age into fabulous maturity.
2012-2023 12x75cl £801.00

2005

St Péray Fleur de Crussol, Alain Voge, Northern Rhône, France

Notes: A very appealing nose: a mix of citrus fruit - lemon and lime - plus lime blossom, powdered minerals and a peppery spice. There are hints of dried apple and pear slices and an aroma I noted (perhaps rashly) as witchhazel. The palate is quite backward for the time being, yet this really isn't a blockbuster. Rather its charms lie in its subtlety. Having said that, it is extraordinarily expressive of the soil from which it comes, a swathe of minerals washing across the tongue. The acidity is well hidden within the fruit and adds to the overall sense of minerality. There are herbal touches to the pear fruit. This is beautifully, subtly composed; just a lovely wine.
2010-2015 12x75cl £216.00


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WINES TO DRINK NOW

Vintage Wine Case size Price Duty Paid
2004

Tannat, Bouza, Uruguay

Notes:

Original price: £60 per case of 6

 

No. I'm not kidding. This wine is from Uruguay and yes, that is the real - very apt - name of the winery. Chile has carmenère, a grape once (and very occasionally, still) found in Bordeaux; Argentina has malbec (ditto re Bordeaux, but now usually associated with the wines of Cahors); Uruguay has tannat. This latter grape is also French and the mainstay of the south-western appellation of Madiran. There it produces tannic, earthy wines that often have a tell-tale aroma I can only describe as the clean stables of a thoroughbred Arab stallion (this is in the most positive sense, as I rather like it).

 

This is black. Not black like a black cat, or midnight at the North Pole at Christmas time. This is black like the inside of an underground vault, as the bottom of the Mariana Trench if all the phosphorescent fish were to be removed.

 

Many French examples of the malbec- or tannat-based wines I struggle to enjoy. They're just too reminiscent of dried fruit that's been dipped in dust. Most often, I prefer their South American counterparts, as the sun of the New World plumps up the fruit and dusts them off a bit. This is classic tannat and yes, there are those savoury, stable-like aromas of warm straw and refined bloodstock. There are dark chocolate and notes of the blackest fruit. I also found meaty, animal notes and something akin to iodine. Topping it all off is an aroma I could only describe as cereal, possibly oats, which ties in very well with the equine theme.

6x75cl £54.00


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Broking Stock

 

Why ever do people sell wine that they've gone to all the trouble to buy and cellar for years? Have they tried it and found it to be intensely rank? Are the corks full of weevils and the bottles half empty?

 

Fortunately for us, the answer is most often entirely innocent. Some people simply overshoot and have more wine than they can possibly ever consume (a personal fantasy of mine). Others have found themselves expatriate for far longer than they ever expected and suddenly wake up to find they have tranches of wine coming ready to drink, with no chance of ever enjoying them before decrepitude sets in (personal nightmare). In any event, this offers a chance to buy wine that is often more or less mature, of excellent provenance and quite frequently wine that is unavailable elsewhere. So that's all good news then…

 

Lying In Bond, Vinothèque, Burton-upon-Trent. (Purchaser will be liable for transit charges.)

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price In Bond
1983

Château Lacaze, Armagnac, France

Notes:
2005-2050 6x70cl £129.30


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Lying In Bond, Octavian, Wiltshire

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price
2000

Château Les Grands Maréchaux, Premières Côtes de Blaye, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
  12x75cl £142.00

2003

Château Hosanna, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
2012-2020 6x75cl £370.00


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Lying Duty Paid, Octavian, Wiltshire

Vintage Wine Drink dates Case size Price
1999

Château Doisy-Daëne, Barsac, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
2008-2018 12x37.5cl £290.00

2000

Château Roylland, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Notes:
  6x150cl £181.00


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If you have any wines that you would be interested in selling, please contact Caspar.