In a warehouse on an industrial estate in Vougeot a wine-making Merlin is conjuring the classiest cuvées from a diverse range of burgundian terroirs. And this wizard is, in fact, an Australian. Mark Haisma cut his wine-making teeth over a decade at Yarra Yering, working with maverick genius Dr Bailey Carrodus, bottling some of Australia's most complex and finest wines.
Mark arrived in Burgundy 2009 and since then has been buying fruit from properly worked vineyards the owners of which are happy to part with their harvest for suitable fiscal reimbursement. Mark brings Aussie know-how to Burgundy Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, allowing the fruit and, most importantly, the vineyard to take centre stage. These are super-bright and transparently lovely wines of enormous elegance and I recommend them wholeheartedly.
[Each wine name is a live link to the relevant listing on the Bowes Wine online shop]
2017 St Romain, Mark Haisma
2017 Volnay, Mark Haisma
2017 Nuits St Georges, Mark Haisma
2017 Gevrey Chambertin, Mark Haisma
2017 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots, Mark Haisma
2017 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes, Mark Haisma