Off to Burgundy this afternoon and levels of anticipation have been raised by a second tasting of barrel samples – this time from the house of Faiveley – in London. Some exceedingly fine wines of both colours have been made from the 2018 harvest. (Keep an eye on the blog for updates and photographs of my trip.)
Yet I am not certain I will find a white wine as fascinating as that from a bottle I drank the other evening.
I had requested a sample. News was out that the highly influential Gambero Rosso guide had anointed Leopardo Felici Winemaker of the Year, stating “Today he knows his vineyards like the back of his hand, he speaks fluent English and produces two wines that rank among the best expressions of the Marche regional white wines”.
Frankly, I wanted in and asked to be sent his top-of-the-line Verdicchio: one of my favourite white grape varieties of all.
The bottle was utterly spectacular. Frankly, I was riveted by the aromas and flavours that came to me like a colourful cascade, some familiar, some distinctly not. Without doubt, this is a wine I want to find in my glass often and regularly going forward. It will age spectacularly well and will give supreme satisfaction every time a bottle is uncorked (or, rather, unscrewed, since it is sealed with a screwcap).
Rather than scrawl a tasting note, I recorded a video of me sampling the wine. You can view this bit of film here. (N.B. In the video I incorrectly state that the wine was awarded Tre Bicchieri. In fact, the 2015 vintage of this wine gained Tre Bicchieri in last year’s guide. The 2016 is thought to be an even better wine, but has not yet been assessed by Gambero Rosso.)
2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva “Il Cantico della Figura”, Andrea Felici
£135 in bond per 6 Drink 2020-2026
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