Benoit Stehly, great-grand-nephew of the original Georges Lignier, is the current wine maker at the domaine and is crafting exquisite wines that are among the finest in the Côte de Nuits.
2019 Gevrey Chambertin, Domaine Georges Lignier
£186 in bond per 6
Fruit is black and blue, highly spiced and properly Gevrey-sauvage. Aromas are rich, rather less pronounced than in the Chambolle, but dense, brooding and smoky. There’s a welcome note of violet within. More control on entry, but dense yet. Nutty note to the blue and darker fruit and this is loaded with structure. Tannin assertive, acidity really present and very juicy. A long thing that will take longer to come ‘round than the Gevrey. It’s ripe, but properly Gevrey and very long and direct. Super.
2019 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combettes, Domaine Georges Lignier
£390 in bond per 6
What a nose. Almost GC levels of class and complexity and distinction here. Smoky, definitely. Really sauvage in its riveting red and black fruit. There’s ripeness here, yet also control and definition. A floral, pot pourri element, and something mineral which comes across like lemon limestone. This is much more aloof, more backward. There’s a cool density here and real class. Masses of rich mineral tannins. Sustained and completely in control. Needs a few years, but this has everything 1er cru Gevrey should and then some. Superb finish: out of sight and real dimension.
2019 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Georges Lignier
£210 in bond per 6
Real Chambolle fragrance here in slightly creamy form. There’s a note of toasty wood, but simply under-scoring the wealth of sumptuous dark plum fruit. Smoke and bramble in the rich aromas. Rich, plush entry almost instantly picks up a tannic thread. It becomes cooler, more controlled. The spine of tannin becomes really upright, direct; pointed. Very, very long wine and the grippy acidity sits within, meets the tannin in the finish. And there’s a hazelnut note about this. could be the wood. Not sure. But this will give pleasure soon… and probably keep well, too. Lovely.
2019 Volnay 1er Cru, Domaine Georges Lignier
£192 in bond per 6
After the Gevrey, this is reserved; delicate, almost. Touch of something slightly exotic here, like ginger biscuits. Fruit is domestic, deep red and delicious-smelling, cherry mainly. There’s a herbal note that could be the wood. This is much less extrovert than the Nuits wines. Cooler too. It’s perhaps more subtle and elegant with a swathe of fabulous very fine tannin reaching for the horizon. Very, very long and mineral wine of superb dimension at the finish. Classy, fresh, composed. Fine wine. Lovely.
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> Jérôme Chézeaux
> Jean Chauvenet
> Rollin Père et Fils
> Michel Lafarge
> Jean Pascal
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