One cannot speak of Guillaume Camus and his wonderful wines without talking about the age of his vineyards. A large part of the Camus-Bruchon portion of Aux Grands Liards is now one hundred years old. Old vines produce less, and more concentrated, fruit, ergo wines of greater depth and intensity.
The Camus-Bruchon wines require a bit of bottle age, but then will offer immense satisfaction.
N.B. The opposite to Rollin, Camus-Bruchon is considered a red wine-producing estate, but do not ignore the white here. It often reminds me of a mini-Corton Charlemagne, despite the vineyards having no geological similarity.
2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune Cuvée Reine Joly, Domaine Camus-Bruchon
£234 in bond per dozen
“The 2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune "Cuvée Reine Joly", a blend of six parcels, offers pure raspberry and wild strawberry scented on the nose, a hint of pressed rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with tart red fruit, quite saline, needing a little cohesion and flesh towards the crunchy finish, though I suspect it will flesh out during the remainder of its élevage.” Neal Martin
2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards, Domaine Camus-Bruchon
£276 in bond per dozen
“The 2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards, which comes from vines planted in 1913 and 1922, contains 30% whole bunch. It offers scented of strawberry pastilles and bergamot, just a touch of sous-bois in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a little tight and linear at the moment, slightly grainy in texture towards the finish. Fine, but give it two or three years in bottle.”Neal Martin
2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains, Domaine Camus-Bruchon
£159 in bond per 6
Not tasted by Neal Martin…or anyone else, for that matter. I love the style of Gravains: generally cooler, more minerally expressive. A real keeper.
2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières, Domaine Camus-Bruchon
£159 in bond per 6
“The 2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières 1er Cru is matured in 25% new oak. It has a very perfumed bouquet with pressed rose petals infusing the red berry fruit, hints of cranberry and bergamot emerging with time, fine mineralité too. The palate is medium-bodied with tart red cherries, crushed strawberry and light orange zest notes, the acidity lending real bite and energy towards the finish. Bon vin!” Neal Martin
2020 Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc, Domaine Camus-Bruchon
£240 in bond a dozen Drink 2023-2029
“Matured in 25% new oak, it has a pretty nectarine and apricot blossom scented bouquet, hints of rosewater with time. The palate is well balanced, quite linear and austere and perhaps here, I am just seeking more amplitude on the finish.” Neal Martin
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