Browse Wines

A Number of Senior Meals and Lofty Bottles



One can expect decent overhead conditions in Hong Kong at this time of year, but I was unprepared for such exceptional meteorological beneficence. Blue skies and clear air were the order of the day...or, rather, days, as such weather persisted throughout my stay.

Much had been said about the protests, but in truth I saw very little of them save the odd tent down in Causeway Bay and the few streets that remained closed off from Central down to Yee Wo Street.

And it was in Yee Wo street that I dined on two consecutive evenings, both at Le Marron, the sort of dining club that has become popular in the SAR not least because the bringing of one's own bottles is actively encouraged.

First night, à deux and, not knowing what my client would be bringing wine-wise, I procured a bottle of burgundy in the form of Taupenot-Merme's 2006 Chambolle 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau.

I like the wines of this producer very much, a producer that (as some will know) owns a tiny fragment of the grand cru Clos des Lambrays vineyard, by far the lion's share of which was recently sold to Bernard Arnault's LVMH group.

And I like the wines of this vineyard: a slab of soil that sums up the arcane nature of burgundian ampelography, as portions of La Combe d'Orveau are categorized village, 1er cru and even grand cru, a small part of it falling into the Echézeaux conglomeration.

The wine was very good, although perhaps would benefit from a little more bottle age. Here's the note:


A rich and very oaky nose showing spice and red and black rich fruit, plus a hint of fish. Very smoky. Palate is rich and fluid, with fine, integrated tannins. Middling fresh, long wine of excellent grip, intensity and focus. Could do with another year or two, IMO.

The bottle my dining partner brought was utterly at the peak of its powers.

1994 Château Latour, Pauillac
Very deep in colour, with still ruby lights shining. The nose evolves constantly in the glass (decanted one hour), shows minted biscuits, almond and liquorice, rocks, that blackcurrant fruit and smoke. The palate is completely resolved, softened. Tannins are all but invisible. Nutty, cool and voluptuous. Walnuts. And it develops a ginger spice and grip, too. Just medium acidity, well covered. Delicious!

Lucky me!

I would call the food here good, occasionally very good. I ate lamb Wellington, which suited both wines rather well.

More reports of meals and wines to follow...
Copyright © 2019 Bowes Wine Ltd  |  All Rights Reserved
17 Market Place
Devizes
Wiltshire
SN10 1HT
UK

t: 01380 827291
www.boweswine.co.uk