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Two Wines; One Big Smile


Dinner at 67 Pall Mall with a most generous and long-standing friend of Bowes Wine on Monday of this week gave an opportunity to taste some celestial wine.

After a couple of glasses of '02 Dom Pérignon (thoroughly lovely) the above red was poured. The sommelier had insisted on decanting it and I was, initially, dubious. I mean, one doesn't really decant burgundy, does one?

I was rather glad he did, however. This puppy's only just hitting its stride and the air allowed it to relax and, like an exotic flower, unfurl for our pleasure.

I was then spoiled rotten to an even greater degree through the sharing of half-a-bottle of '01 Hermitage Blanc, Chave.

Here are my thoughts on both:

2002 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, Dujac
Deeply coloured in the glass. The nose is dense and ripe, of gorgeous fruit and that waft of Chambertin bonfire smoke. Dark fruit and piquant; rather aristocratic, with aspects of nut and nori. The is really starting to develop complexity. There's even a hint of mint. Palate is rich and the integrated tannic structurestarts right from the off. This is borderline fleshy but for those almond, snappy tannins. Long, with a piquant lift that gives great focus to the back end. It develops liquorice aromas. This is a scented wine. Wonderful Pinot Noir.

2001 Hermitage Blanc, Chave
A dry and unfleshy nose that smells subtly of nut and candle wax and almonds. A nut liqueur entry: almonds again. This is rich and filled. Candied and toasted lemons. Long and resolved wine. A hint of cooked apple develops later. Acidity pretty mellow. Delicious!
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