Love Loire
First Impressions and a Focus on Reds
I recently attended a wine tasting in London: Love Loire, it was dubbed and there certainly was a lot to love.
It was the reds that I wanted to focus on and the red wine with which I started my tasting day: Pinot Noirs from the upper Loire, principally Sancerre.
Climate Change and the Loire
It’s hard to write about wine these days without the mention of climate change and it is a key factor when discussing the wines of the Loire, be it the Atlantic whites of the Pays Nantais or the reds through the length of the valley.
From Difficult Grapes to Consistent Quality
Pinots and Cabernet Francs from here were, at one time, a difficult bunch. Having the propensity to be remarkably fine and age-worthy in warmer vintages, most often left stringy and austere through the lack of sunshine hours and associated warmth in the less good harvests.
Not so now. As in Germany, the Pinots are gaining a foothold at the High Table where Burgundy has been the sole diner for a millennium and more. And Loire Cabernet Franc is replacing claret as the source of cassis-redolent reds of (relatively) moderate levels of alcohol.
Tasting Through the Valley
Thus, happy as Larry, I made my way through a host of red Sancerres, a spot of Gamay from the granitic soils of the arcane Côte Roannaise, then ploughed on into Bourgueil, its neighbour Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Chinon, Saumur, Saumur Champigny and, finally (at least before some welcome whites) Anjou.
By dint of the variety alone, it was a more interesting tasting than the Bordeaux event of a week or so previously. And there were some really serious wines present.
Stand-Out Producers
Stand-outs were the Sancerres of Fouassier, Domaine Chotard, Francois Crochet and a tasty pair from Vacheron. The range from Claude Riffault was also predictably stunning, both red and white. Domaine Delaporte were also mighty impressive.
Then it was on to the Cab Francs and Domaine du Bel-Air was an exceedingly fine way to start things off. The purity of these was enthralling. There followed Domaine de Pallus with its high-scoring Chinons, begging for time in the cellar to attain their ultimate potential. Domaine Moly showed a fabulous range from both Saumur and Saumur-Champigny and I was taken by the reds from La Renière: not, alas, imported into the UK at this time.
A Refreshing Finish
The run of Muscadet, Folle Blanche, Sancerre, Savennières and white Anjou made for some welcome mouthwash after the reds.
What’s Next?
I will shortly be offering some of these wines should they be of interest (and they really should).
Our Loire offering - All offer clear expressions of their appellations but also offer tremendous value for money.
