SHADES OF ROSÉ…
With summer finally poking its head out of the
nesting box of weather that has been, to date,
distinctly spring-like, rustling its new-found
feathers and beginning to think about taking to the
skies, I thought it apposite to start considering
fine drinks to accompany this welcome change in
meteorological profile. We have secured a number of
simply stunning pink wines. I know, I know. One is
most often tempted, rosé-wise, to plump for
the cheapest option with the thought that, should it
turn out to be execrable (as many cheap examples
often are) one doesn’t feel too bad about
watering the roses with it.
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However, trade up and one can find wines of real
interest. What are the prerequisites of good
rosé? Well, that it is delicious
and…and that’s probably about it.
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Rosé comes in all shapes, shades and sizes,
from the oeil de perdrix wines that one has to
examine jolly closely to observe any hint of colour,
to the clairette examples of Bordeaux that are as
deep as many a red burgundy.
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We have bought in the tastiest we have found, in a
range of styles to cover any pink wine eventuality.
And we’re offering a mixed case, so one’s
taste buds needn’t become jaded by repetition.
Here’s the SP:
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Shades of Rosé Mixed Case - £109 case/12
inc VAT
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Comprising:
4 bottles (75cl) 2006 Rosé Cuvée
Prestige, Château de Chaberts, Côteaux
Varois
This is a very pale salmon pink. Really good nose
here; I even found some complexity. It's a touch
spicy and nutty, with floral notes and red cherry and
peach fruit. There's a herbal note, too. Great
concentration, which belies its pale colour. A
mixture of rich fruit and crisp acidity. Very, very
long in the mouth, with a fabulous finish. Great
stuff.
4 bottles (75cl) 2007 Rosé, Domaine
de Nizas, Côteaux de Languedoc
Very rosé colour: a pale cherry pink. This
gives up a rich nose that's redolent of ripe fruits
of peach and pomegranate, nut paste, a touch meaty.
There's a good weight of fruit here. The flavours are
cherry and there's a refeshing lick of citrus
acidity. Very long. Excellent rosé of the sort
that makes one want to reach for another glass.
4 bottles (75cl) 2006 Rosé, Casa Agricola
Roboredo Madeira (organic), Portugal
Here we're almost getting into the realms of what in
Bordeaux would be called a clairette, somwhere
between a red and a white wine. The colour is an
intense and rather beautiful cherry red. The nose
reminds one of a plate of fresh summer berries, red
and black, as do the flavours on the palate. This is
big wine: a real fruit salad mouthful.
NB. These wines are also available to buy as whole
cases from the Drinking
Wines page of the website.
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Also worth mentioning are a bevy of red and white
additions to our drinking list, as they are among the
most impressive bottles we have ever seen at these
prices, and a pink champagne:
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2007 Sauvignon de Touraine, Domaine Guy Allion, Loire
Valley, France - £84 case/12 inc
VAT. (Available in 6 btl cases)
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I am usually the first to malign the rather vapid
qualities of Sauvignon Blanc, but finding an example
like this has restored faith. So concentrated; so
focussed and so utterly delicious, this kicks the
kiwis into touch and gives you a big wad of change
from the sum that you would spend on a Sancerre of
lesser quality.
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2005 Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi, Vigna delle Oche,
San Lorenzo, Tuscany, Italy - £120
case/12 inc VAT (Available in 6 btl cases)
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I have never tasted a wine so fascinating at this
price. A remarkably complex liquid giving up aromas
and flavours of dried and fresh fruit. I have no hope
whatsoever that we will ever match this for the
money.
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2006 Cinsault Les Servières, Domaine
d’Aupilhac, Vin de Pays de
l’Hérault, France - £102 case/12
inc VAT
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We are smug. We resemble felines long on dairy
product. This is, in short, an absolute doozie. (N.B.
I never know how to spell this word; perhaps it
should be duesi, as it has its origins in the
Duesenberg, a make of American car that was
considered the ne plus ultra of its time.) Old vine
Cinsault like this is generous, but not overly sweet;
complex, medium weight and delicious. It is perfect
for food and can be consumed with enormous pleasure
on its own. Ambrosial red.
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2006 Val de Murta Tinto, Quinta da Murta,
Estremadura, Portugal - £96 case/12 inc
VAT (Available in 6 btl cases)
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This is a different animal altogether. There’s
nothing refined about this wine, which is a brooding,
grubbing about, earthy kind of red. It is black as
night, fascinating and has everything New World reds
offer, but is more interesting by far. One for
charred hamster, possibly on a stick.
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NV Cuvée Réserve Rosée,
Champagne Philipponnat - £354 case/12 inc VAT
(Available in 6 btl cases)
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There are rich aromas of red fruit - plum and
raspberry - alongside hints of coffee and chocolate
to the delicious nose. There are slightly meaty,
Pinot notes and a definite smell of crab-apples.
Chocolate orange. The fizz is lively in the glass and
very fine in the mouth, brushing the tongue with
cashmere bubbles. The palate is rich and fresh at the
same time. There are more mocha notes, as well as a
profound minerality that becomes crumbly/chalky with
aeration. Great length
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To order these wines, please go to the Drinking
Wines page
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Nothing equals the joy of the drinker except the joy of the wine in being drunk.
