The Marvellous March of Mighty Malbec

12 October 2016

The march of Malbec continues unabated. In Cahors (from where it originated) the grape is experiencing a renaissance, yet Argentine examples still grip the consumer's interest like nothing else. And there are few better exponents of the variety than Achaval Ferrer.

I tasted these two the other day and was utterly entranced by them. To be fair, the first wine is only 50% Malbec, but both - in very different ways - introduced a flame to my blue touchpaper.

2012 Quimera, Achavel Ferrer - £123 in bond per 6

Drink 2016-20

N.B. This is 50% Malbec, 24% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot.

No shrinking violet this, yet there's a great deal of unashamedly easy pleasure to be had here. The nose is scented and full of snappy ripe and pure dark fruits. The palate is fresh-but-rich and contains enough structure within the fruit to lend the wine a solemnity sufficient for some pretty smart food. The structure will also ensure that this takes on further bottle age with extreme grace...which is not to say that it's not utterly delicious right now.

2012 Malbec Finca Bella Vista, Achaval Ferrer - £264 in bond per 6
Drink 2017-22

2012 was actually quite a warm vintage in Mendoza, yet there is absolutely no evidence of heat in this wine. On the contrary, it is supremely airy and elegant, showing the influence of flowers in the red and black fruit aromas: scents that are fresh and lively and inviting. The fresh theme continues across the tongue, where that delicious fruit takes on a fascinating saline edge. And then it simply goes and goes, the finish somewhere over the hills and far away. Just a beautiful example, this.

Email caspar(at)boweswine.co.uk to order these wines.