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You may remember a recent communication detailing a mature Austrian found lurking in Bowes Wine's stock list: a wine I snaffled for home usage and am enjoying enormously. In any event, I have recorded a video tasting note that you can see hereif interested.
A client in the throes of organising an Austrian wine tasting has now requested details of some benchmark examples for him to show his assembled wine-loving friends, ergo I have put out something of an APB and interesting things have duly been coming back.
There is one voice in the UK - an importer of renown - whom I would trust more than any other on the subject of the wines of Austria. And he has kindly come up with a micro-parcel (and I mean micro) of the following, from a vintage he describes as "my favourite GV vintage in the past 20 years or so".
2013 Gruner Veltliner Rosenberg, Weingut Bernhard Ott
£174 in bond per 6 Drink 2018-25
N.B. Drinking end date is circumspect.
I know the wines of Bernard Ott reasonably well as I sample them every year at the Institute of Directors on Pall Mall where the annual Austrian trade tasting is held. They are among the finest white wines of that country that I have come across. It is entirely possible that I could find a tasting note for this wine if I scoured a box full of tasting books, but it could well take several hours to locate. Instead I will let the writers communicate the quality of this extremely special liquid:
"Ott's vines are more than 50 old and give a remarkable elegant and well balanced Veltliner with an intense citrus color and a lovely purity of ripe, juicy peaches and mangoes intermixed with fresh, clear mineral flavors on the nose. Gentle and remarkably elegant on the palate, the full-bodied wine matches its natural richness and fruit intensity with freshness and a nice piquancy in a very delicious way. Its elegance and balance is really beautiful." Stephan Reinhardt
"An alluringly musky and rose petal-like floral perfume mingles with scents of sweet pea, caramelized turnip and parsnip that come to the fore on a mouthwateringly savory, silky, almost creamy palate. It's a bit as though a Grüner Veltliner had been laced with Gewurztraminer. A tart-edged strawberry-rhubarb note emerges by way of counterpoint. Toasted grain, ginger and mouthwatering salinity of shrimp-shell reduction serve for stimulation in a long, buoyant, soothing finish. Of the three single-vineyard Ott bottlings, this gained the most between its showing immediately before bottling and its showing a year later, which is consistent with its history of slow bottle evolution." David Schildknecht(who suggests that this could be cellared until 2030)
Email Caspar[at]boweswine.co.uk to order this wine