The short crop very much in evidence here, as most of these are available in minuscule quantities. Yet nowhere is that true-ism about high quality following a natural shortfall more evident. These 2016s from the venerable house of Bouchard Père et Fils are exceptionally lovely.
WHITES2016 Meursault Les Clous, Bouchard Père et Fils
£171 in bond per 6 Drink 2019-26
Nose here is a touch shy, giving up aromas of nut and melon fruit when swirled. The palate, however, is fresh and nicely detailed from the off. There's a hint of orange to the flavours as it grips gently and exhibits dry, mineral sustain. There's no real sweetness to the fruit, just fabulous density and structure. It's a long thing that tastes of its small orange fruit freshened by the superb internal acidity. Superb.
2016 Beaune Clos St Landry Monopole, Bouchard Père et Fils
£186 in bond per 6 Drink 2019-28
I thought the white Beaunes were all very lovely, especially this monopole cuvée. This is more scented than the Meursault Clous, at least for the time being. Aromas are of mixed citrus fruit - including green orange - as well as mint and nut. The oak is very well integrated. A cool, direct, juicy wine of great sustain and upright, mineral, incisive freshness. Just a fabulous thing.
2016 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, Bouchard Père et Fils
£318 in bond per 6 Drink 2020-30
There's a delicious orange ripeness to this very Meursault kind of nose. The palate is rich, but quickly juicy with its freshness. Citrus and orchard fruit combine around a very fine mineral core that grips and pushes forward. It has very fresh, green orange acidity. A long wine of excellent structure. Needs a bit of time, but is most impressive.
REDS2016 Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons, Bouchard Père et Fils
£186 in bond per 6 Drink 2020-30
The nose has a delightful airiness about it, is of blueberries with a hint of cassis. The palate starts all plush and friendly, then switches into something altogether more backward and upright, showing a fresh, tannic structure. This is very long and fresh and really a very direct wine. An intense thing at the back. Nice Teurons!
2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse, Bouchard Père et Fils
£189 in bond per 6 Drink 2020-32
N.B. This is a monopole vineyard of 3.3 hectares. Soils are very deep red clay. Nose is rich and warmly spicy and include liquorice notes. It goes in the mouth plush, but quickly turns into a more direct thing, with integrated, fresh quite intense tannic backbone. A long and piquant wine, but also a complete and lovely mineral wine.
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, Bouchard Père et Fils
£291 in bond per 6 Drink 2021-32
A rich nose, smoky and dark-fruited. This just smells autumnal somehow. Aromas are dense, in any event. The palate is plush and dense and rich and quickly underpinned by incisive, mineral structure. Tannins are fresh and add a persistent grip. This is busy with its energy. Very long and dense thing. Super.
2016 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles, Bouchard Père et Fils
£381 in bond per 6 Drink 2022-34
Touch of rhubarb snap about the red and black fruit aromas. The whole thing comes across as snappy and full of energy. There's quick freshness about the palate, too, down to those fine, chalk-textured tannins. This is a lovely thing: a wine of grace and elegance.
2016 Le Corton Grand Cru, Bouchard Père et Fils
£450 in bond per 6 Drink 2022-35
A rich, plush and dark sort of a nose that smells of sweet spices and blueberry/plum fruit. Lovely purity here and some good complexity already. This is a rich and integrated wine on the tongue. Lovely ripe, dark fruit gives way to juicy grip. A dense mouthful, with a full, ripe tannic structure that becomes nicely incisive. Very long thing and very lovely, too.
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