Wine Variety: Godello is an indigenous grape of north-western Spain and northern Portugal, in which latter locale it is known as Gouveio. In Dão, this vine is known as Verdelho, although it is unrelated to the Verdelho of Madeira. Godello can thrive in dry climates and was all but extinct in the 1970s. It is now grown on almost 2,900 acres of vineyard.
Wine Region: Galicia is the wettest part of Spain and this maritime climate combined with the granitic soils has led to the production of some of Spain's finest white wines. And they cannot produce too much at present, global demand being vast. In 2012 the vineyard area was over 17 times what it had been in 1987 and is still growing. Valdeorras is in the east of Galicia and is protected by mountains to the west from the most extreme effects of the Atlantic Ocean. Many of its steep slopes were terraced during Roman occupation.
Wine Producer: Bodegas Carballal was founded in 1998: a project developed by a family of winemakers with extensive experience and their own vineyards. Carballal is located in the Valdeorras Denomination of Origin, on the slopes of the municipality of Petín in Galicia, Spain.
Pale lemon straw colour. This is pretty reticent on the nose. Wisps of cool orchard fruit emerge with agitation: crisp pear and apple. And there’s a hint of that daffodil thing I find in Godello. Otherwise, a hint of toasted spice. Palate is dry and controlled and nicely dense. There’s structure galore including some tannin, so I wonder if there’s been a little skin contact. Nicely concentrated and determinedly unflashy, there’s a meatiness about this. I doubt cold ferment ever entered the wine maker’s mind. One’s left with a granular mineral sensation across the tongue. Balance is extremely good. There remains a sensation of piquant spice in the mouth. Long wine for food. I think this is very good, albeit subtle and not remotely modern.
#3wordtastingnote: orchard, spice mineral
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