|Smoking mists descending from the Hautes Côtes|
In a vast room full of some extremely celebrated names, I came across the red Côte de Beaune wines of Francois Buffet and idly wondered whether, had he been Swedish, he would have been called Frans Smorgasbord.
In any event, his wines were as good as anything in the room and better than most. And as previously mentioned, there were some of the most famous names of the Côte d'Or also being poured. It wasn't just me either. I heard a number of other tasters comment about how these were stand-out good.
Seven generations of the Buffet family have made wine in the Côte de Beaune and the estate now covers 18.5 acres of land in Volnay, Pommard, Savigny-lès-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses.
2015 Volnay, Francois Buffet
£144 in bond per 6 Drink 2019-24
here's a touch of briar about the aromas that nuances ripe red fruits and a hint of sous bois. The palate offers instant fresh tension within the ravishingly ripe red fruit. This is stuffed with mineral structure and is fresh and backward. Yet it is also very pretty and offers superb lift at the back. Fabulous stuff.
2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans, Francois Buffet
£208 in bond per 6 Drink 2020-27
There's that slight briary note again, which either comes from the wood or the stems present in a whole-bunch ferment. Fruit is dark and pure and really rather aristo. Aromas have good tang to them. This is very dark and carries a hint of mint. A wine that is very juicy from near the front and stuffed with creamy dark fruit. This has fresh and wholly integrated, fabulous structure. A minerally-fresh and very, very long wine.
Email Caspar[at]boweswine.co.uk to order these wines