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Miles from Soave

In April this year northern Italy lost one of the titans of local wine production when Leonildo Pieropan died, drawing to a close a lifetime spent transforming the wines of the Veneto and their reputation.

There are now quite a number of estates in Soave producing stellar wines from the high-quality Garganega grape, so one shouldn't really be surprised to find an estate previously unknown making wines of scintillating quality, yet surprised I was to taste something quite this riveting.

We stocked up on the entry level Soave from this estate as one of our monthly Daily Drinker wines and it is a delightful everyday drop of great sophistication. This - the Vigneto Runcata - is something else again: an intense, profound, complex and long-living white wine offering maximum reward.

The Wine

2016 Soave Superiore Vigneto Runcata,
Tenuta de Corte Giacobbe
£105 in bond per 6  Drink 2018-24

A super-defined nose of salted Golden Delicious apples and dry, spiced fruits. There's a touch of grapefruit pithiness about this, along with a resinous complexity. In fact this is an extremely complex thing to nose: a fascination.

The palate offers great cut from very near the front. There's fine saline definition to the firm core of pithy acidity. Real spice here. And the energy is notable: great vim enclosed within. A very long thing this, through which runs a thread of green lemon, firm acidity. And then it comes together into lasting, even grip.

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