The tasting notes below were taken at a wine trade lunch I attended last week in the wine library of 67 Pall Mall.
I started with ceviche (a bit bland and underwhelming, if I am honest) and followed it with an extremely good steak: sirloin, if memory serves. In addition to the wines below we drank a 2013 Puligny-Montrachet Enseignères from Henri Prudhon of whose wines I admit to being somewhat lacking in experience. I wasn’t sure it was in perfect nick. Colour was quite deep and the wine very dry, showing a great deal of spice and an interesting mint/wintergreen/iodine character along with slightly lean apple fruit. We finished with a port served blind. It was 1983 Croft and dry-ish, light-ish and delicious. The perfect port for lunchtime consumption!
2009 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, Brocard
Bold, positive pale gold. The nose, of course, developed, but with an overriding pure orange tang, plus the nut nuance. Very nice tension across the palate. And there’s really firm lemon acidity within. Some piquancy to the fresh mineral structure. And still with good weight of fruit. Remarkable condition for an ’09. Very, very long, with a great, rapier thrust of energy at the death. Superb.
Classic Cuvée, Nyetimber
Nicely piquant nose of citrus and white flowers and green fruit. Really quite a pungent thing. Very fine, lightly creamy bead across the tongue. Becomes chalkily textured. Pears and apples and salt. Precise wine and long, with firm mineral ending. Fabulous.
1999 Charmes Chambertin Les Mazoyères, Vougeraie
Utterly beautiful tertiary nose, quite high toned. Bonfire smoke and dried autumn leaves; later, ginger biscuits. Fruit is on the red end of the spectrum. The palate has an initial whiff of struck match that blows away with airing. It is taut and upright and smoky; long and very direct.
2007 Vosne Romanée, d’Eugénie
The nose is quite closed, of very dark fruit and dry spice and a rooty earthiness. Hint of wet leaves. There’s great tang right through this very mineral wine. The fruit has a blackcurrant purity to it (northern sector?). Comes across as very young. With air, it becomes richer, more gingerbread. Defined and feels like it could gain more complexity with additional bottle age.
2005 Corton Grand Cru Les Bressandes, Florent de Mérode
A rich gravy of a nose: blood and liquorice. Fruit has red tang, but some breadth. Palate’s a tangy thing, too. There’s air within and autumn pastilles. Drinking very well.